Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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hello, i have 2 switch same with Trinket M0 i load this up
Changelog: 0.9.3
  • Updated default blz graphic to something more "OEM" - set an autoboot option to see it
  • Killed a gremlin that may cause phantom capacitive "pin" action, changing payload / mode. You can safely handle your dongle without it changing its payload like it is posessed as soon as you touch it. Literally...

but when i but up i get nothing only ninteno menu the Trinket M0 give a green licht on off what files i must put one the sd card i have version 6.20

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

i see nintendo patch some switch mine are not patch what did ninendo patch do you try old bios chip read and put it back one new patch one

what happend mabe i go try
You are not entering RCM.
 

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Hi Matty! Is there an alternative point for vol+? Dunno if you remember but i knocked the resistor off last time and fixed it again. Would like to permaboot into cfw but rather avoid that point tbh.
 
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Hi Matty! Is there an alternative point for vol+? Dunno if you remember but i knocked the resistor off last time and fixed it again. Would like to permaboot into cfw but rather avoid that point tbh.
@PSxed

Choose an orange point.
Link the point I marked with white circle if you have killed the 0201 150R resistor. Still within specs if you do.
volup_solder_points.png
 
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@PSxed

Choose an orange point.
Link the point I marked with white circle if you have killed the 0201 150R resistor. Still within specs if you do.
View attachment 154196

Neat thanks! I fixed the resistor last time by actually grabbing my microscope instead of blindly soldering and praying for the best (hurray for being too lazy to unpack after moving). I like the placement of the right one better, so going for that one tonight.
 

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Neat thanks! I fixed the resistor last time by actually grabbing my microscope instead of blindly soldering and praying for the best (hurray for being too lazy to unpack after moving). I like the placement of the right one better, so going for that one tonight.
OK sir! Tell me how it goes.
 

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Do i need to config something for the direct boot to cfw? I'm definitely sure i soldered it right. Volume + and power to cfw is still working.

edit: Fixed it. Made a mess of the actual bootloader lol.
 

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Do i need to config something for the direct boot to cfw? I'm definitely sure i soldered it right. Volume + and power to cfw is still working.

edit: Fixed it. Made a mess of the actual bootloader lol.
That looks good work.

I gave you right points Im sure I did! Not going senile am I?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Can this work on patched Switches?
Do you know something, I think I may be rather close to another stack smash for the new ones.

Really want to get to work testing. But there is zero patched consoles here sadly.

If anyone has a patched board with intact emmc let me know!
 

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argon
argon-nx.bin
Atmosphere.bin
fusee-gelee.bin
hekate.bin
Nintendo
ns-atmosphere.bin
payload.bin
ReiNX.bin
start.bin
SXOS.bin

Where is your Atmosphere folder? You need that. It has fusee-secondary.bin in there along with the actual fw
 

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If anyone wants to set up a test rig for their chips, this is where all my UF2s come from...

A crystalless SAMD21E18... And A G18 too but that isn`t really needed... (not pictured)
20190107_232310[1].jpg
 

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Bit of an update...

In testing now:
  • Possibility to fit extra strap that will trigger a payload push when USB is disconnected, negating any accidental RCM shenanigans.
  • As it stands now, If its plugged into USB, it is receiving power, therefore nothing happens - this leaves the switch in RCM. This is the only circumstance there could be a problem.
  • By having the chip wake up when USB is pulled, as soon as USB is disconnected, the chip will attempt to send a payload then sleep. If it fails, that means your console isn`t in RCM and shuts off. If it succeeds, a payload will be pushed, completing the shutdown procedure.

This update will be in 0.9.4 - This is not a forced upgrade or anything. And in testing now.
 

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@mattytrog: Thanks a lot for your efforts.
Was running the old 4 wire method 1 a couple of months now without an major issue.
Stumbled upon your new universal wiring and SWITCHBOOT + Simple-UF2 and have a few questions.
Want to add the two straps to prevent burning fuses.

Here are my questions:

  • Does SWITCHBOOT with booth straps (rcm & vol+) always boots into RCM without AUtoRCM?
    Asking this because in the past the Trinket/UF2 was too slow to pull those.

  • Can i safely disable autorcm and prevent burnt fuses?

  • WIth my current method when switch is powered off also the trinket has no power.
    I think i have connected VCC to the USB IC capacitor.
    When ill plug the switch into the dock all is working correclty and CFW boots.
    But when the switch is off, and ill plug an charger in it doesnt boot into horizon or doesnt show anything on screen.
    We have talked this about earlier in this thread and you confirmed me that this is normal behaviour.

    Is this minor "issue" solved with the new universal wiring and SWITCHBOOT?

  • Whats the difference betwenn the two VCC points on the switch MB (on the cap of the USB IC and the one near the IC near the rcm strap) ?
    Which one is recommended?
    Does changing the VCC point changing the behaviour that the trinket is powered in "standby"?
Thanks a lot
pOpY
 

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