Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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james12

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Have you restored BOOT0 & BOOT1? If not, restore those.

Can`t see a bridge between the capacitors. But clean them and make sure they are not joined.

@james12 if restoring BOOT0/1 through Hekate doesn`t work, you will need keyset / choidujour to make new ones, then etcher to restore them. Or just use etcher and keyset (via hacdiskmount) to write back
how do i make new flashable firmware via choidujour?
 

james12

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Have you restored BOOT0 & BOOT1? If not, restore those.

Can`t see a bridge between the capacitors. But clean them and make sure they are not joined.

@james12 if restoring BOOT0/1 through Hekate doesn`t work, you will need keyset / choidujour to make new ones, then etcher to restore them. Or just use etcher and keyset (via hacdiskmount) to write back
memloader doesnt work, it is possible that my emmc is broken?
 

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living

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Hi living. Im not sure if its the best method but i used:
Version_1_trinket_rebug_joycon_only.uf2
and trinket_rebug_hekate_chainloader_beta.UF2 files. This boots the switch through hekate so i havent used any 0 folder. Ive then set it up to autoboot the reinx payload from there.

TO FOLLOW YOUR STEPS, Once those 2 processes have been completed, what files do you have on your SD memory card?
 

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living

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Oh ok, then I remove folder 0, since I'm going to use Hekate.
I inject the 2 files true, the [Version_1_trinket_rebug_joycon_only.uf2] in the TRINKETBOOT and one of these 3, [4A3C_Trinket_Rebug_mode1], [4A98_Trinket_Legacy3_mode1.UF2], [4A98_Trinket_method3_mode1]
and is there included hekate by default? Do not put start.bin?
 

mattytrog

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Oh ok, then I remove folder 0, since I'm going to use Hekate.
I inject the 2 files true, the [Version_1_trinket_rebug_joycon_only.uf2] in the TRINKETBOOT and one of these 3, [4A3C_Trinket_Rebug_mode1], [4A98_Trinket_Legacy3_mode1.UF2], [4A98_Trinket_method3_mode1]
and is there included hekate by default? Do not put start.bin?

Correct. Hekate built in to UF2 :)
 

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I do not understand. Something should be in the micro SD not? regardless of the tinfoil, homebrew, etc softwares, I mean the basics to boot hekate .... that is put in the microsd
 

mattytrog

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I do not understand. Something should be in the micro SD not? regardless of the tinfoil, homebrew, etc softwares, I mean the basics to boot hekate .... that is put in the microsd
You don't need anything to boot hekate. It is included. You may need the sleep library but the rest is created on first boot of hekate
 

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So, I had a friend who does fine solder work attach the wires at the described points. I put the switch back together and tested Vol+ and Power boot up, which seems to work. I see the "CHECK SD 0 FOLDER" text on the screen.

I also tested normal boot into Horizon to verify, and it boots up fine. However, the touch screen doesn't work. The joycon buttons work so I can get past the lock screen. But no touch. I took everything apart again and verified all the flex cables and made sure they're all seated correctly and that none of them are torn. Still, touch doesn't work.

I attached images of my friend's solder work. To me it looks nice and clean. Any idea about where I can start troubleshooting? Technically, I don't really need touch since I can do navigation with the joycons but it would be nice to get it working.

I was super careful with disassembly and reassembly and my friend isn't an amateur when it comes to electronics so I trust he didn't rip any components off. I had him verify afterwards with his microscope.

Any help is appreciated.

20181127_222627.jpg 20181127_222652.jpg
 

living

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I'm having difficulty for the pc to see the units, both the TRINKETBOOT, as the SWITCHBOOT, and that the thickness of the VCC and GND is higher than the other cables.
I am following this scheme that I upload, and since I want dual boot, I am not using the brown cable that it puts (vol + strap), in the diagram it goes to point 0 of the chip, do you recommend that I use another installation scheme?
Thank you
 

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Gismor

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My SwitchMe rebug in dualboot mode is perfectly working.
But now i see you have update the UF2 files and i will update my modchip too.

I boot my switch normal and connect it with pc. Nothing local drive appears. I press twice the reset button from rebug and nothing local drive appears. i disconnect my switch from the pc press twice slowly the reset button and than i connect it via usb on my pc but nothing local drive appears :(
any ideas for more trying?
 

mattytrog

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So, I had a friend who does fine solder work attach the wires at the described points. I put the switch back together and tested Vol+ and Power boot up, which seems to work. I see the "CHECK SD 0 FOLDER" text on the screen.

I also tested normal boot into Horizon to verify, and it boots up fine. However, the touch screen doesn't work. The joycon buttons work so I can get past the lock screen. But no touch. I took everything apart again and verified all the flex cables and made sure they're all seated correctly and that none of them are torn. Still, touch doesn't work.

I attached images of my friend's solder work. To me it looks nice and clean. Any idea about where I can start troubleshooting? Technically, I don't really need touch since I can do navigation with the joycons but it would be nice to get it working.

I was super careful with disassembly and reassembly and my friend isn't an amateur when it comes to electronics so I trust he didn't rip any components off. I had him verify afterwards with his microscope.

Any help is appreciated.

View attachment 151151 View attachment 151152

The ribbon that attaches to the cartridge slot is the digitizer I believe.

If you have a problem here, check your cartridge port also. If thats not working then its the connector that links this board to the main board.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I'm having difficulty for the pc to see the units, both the TRINKETBOOT, as the SWITCHBOOT, and that the thickness of the VCC and GND is higher than the other cables.
I am following this scheme that I upload, and since I want dual boot, I am not using the brown cable that it puts (vol + strap), in the diagram it goes to point 0 of the chip, do you recommend that I use another installation scheme?
Thank you

Yes. Use the new universal installation picture in OP. Almost the same. But this one won`t drain the battery.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

My SwitchMe rebug in dualboot mode is perfectly working.
But now i see you have update the UF2 files and i will update my modchip too.

I boot my switch normal and connect it with pc. Nothing local drive appears. I press twice the reset button from rebug and nothing local drive appears. i disconnect my switch from the pc press twice slowly the reset button and than i connect it via usb on my pc but nothing local drive appears :(
any ideas for more trying?
You seem to be doing it right. Make sure you are booted into Horizon (the switch OS). Leave it sat on the home screen... Disconnect everything... Double-press until the red light starts "breathing". Then plug in.
 

Gismor

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thanks matty but dosent work :( and cant see the red light must open my switch. when i open the switch i try it ;) thanks for helping
 

living

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I'm going to do it according to your installation scheme but I have a question, if I want to use hekate. what file injected in trinketboot and what in switchboot? since there are 2 files normally, some weigh a little kbs and others like the current.uf2. it weighs 512 kb

my question is: what file should be put in each one (trinketboot and switchboot) and if you have to change names or you can drag as is, keeping your name.
 

Zer0Zer07even

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The ribbon that attaches to the cartridge slot is the digitizer I believe.

If you have a problem here, check your cartridge port also. If thats not working then its the connector that links this board to the main board.

Bingo! The cartridge port wasn't working either. The culprit was the connector that connects to the main board. It must have bent slightly when I removed it since the PCB it's on is wafer thin.

Thanks again!
 
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Gismor

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I'm going to do it according to your installation scheme but I have a question, if I want to use hekate. what file injected in trinketboot and what in switchboot? since there are 2 files normally, some weigh a little kbs and others like the current.uf2. it weighs 512 kb

my question is: what file should be put in each one (trinketboot and switchboot) and if you have to change names or you can drag as is, keeping your name.

one is for the booloader and one is for the chainloader. i dont know which one, but the master have the answer ;)

how can you open trinkentboot and how switchboot?
i think only press the reset button twice it open trinketboot/switchboot and its the same?
 

psp95

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hello, guys I have a problem, if I use your u2 files do not start the chip right away, in the sense that I have to press the trinket button or itsybyte more on and vol + button and the console starts with payload etc, instead if I put "sam-fusee-launcher-internal" enough that I press the vol + and on key and the console starts in rcm and the payload works, can the same function also be used on your u2 files? or if someone can convert that sam fuse launcher internal to even itsybyte
 

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