Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

I should send the UF2 file via USB? Im a little confused.

Yes it will open like a flash drive

 

[ralfreichts]

Hello mattytrog,

thanks for your guide.
I followed your guide, had everything done, but then unfortunately i tried to bring the cables in the right direction and both soldering points for usb got fucked. You can see it in my picture. They are no golden dots anymore ... its just blank
The bad: pc/mac does not recognizes the switch when connecting
The good: charging works, and the trinket is flashed and should work aswell (but i cannot mount it anymore)

Are there alternative soldering points or a way to fix it?

Thanks!

 

[mattytrog]

Hello mattytrog,

thanks for your guide.
I followed your guide, had everything done, but then unfortunately i tried to bring the cables in the right direction and both soldering points for usb got fucked. You can see it in my picture. They are no golden dots anymore ... its just blank
The bad: pc/mac does not recognizes the switch when connecting
The good: charging works, and the trinket is flashed and should work aswell (but i cannot mount it anymore)

Are there alternative soldering points or a way to fix it?

Thanks!

 

[ralfreichts]

Thank you!
Then USB should work normal again, right?
What about that USB connection from the trinket to the switch? Should this then go to the red wire - one each?

 

[mattytrog]

Thank you!
Then USB should work normal again, right?
What about that USB connection from the trinket to the switch? Should this then go to the red wire - one each?

Correct. Just follow the OP substituting the left pad for left wire, right pad for right wire.

Back as you were. Yippee!

 

[Adr990]

Hello!

[...]

Hope it works out

Thanks!

Hmm, I removed all the wires, rubbed the spots with some Q-tips and 99.99%.
Reconnected the battery, pressed power, no dice.

Neither if I connect the power adapter through USB C.

Are there any chances of it still being saved, maybe a fuse popped somewhere? (Not a e-fuse, haha)

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks!

Hmm, I removed all the wires, rubbed the spots with some Q-tips and 99.99%.
Reconnected the battery, pressed power, no dice.

Neither if I connect the power adapter through USB C.

Are there any chances of it still being saved, maybe a fuse popped somewhere? (Not a e-fuse, haha)

Is it being recognised in RCM mode? If not, either M92T36 popped or BQ24193. I`m betting on the latter.

EDIT: Might have a BQ24193 in my bits. Looking now...

 

[Adr990]

Is it being recognised in RCM mode? If not, either M92T36 popped or BQ24193. I`m betting on the latter.

EDIT: Might have a BQ24193 in my bits. Looking now...

It does boot to RCM. Tested with TegraRcmGui, giving it the Green RCM OK logo.

After 7 seconds it shut down I believe because then the Red No RCM logo returned.

 

[mattytrog]

It does boot to RCM. Tested with TegraRcmGui, giving it the Green RCM OK logo.

After 7 seconds it shut down I believe because then the Red No RCM logo returned.

What happens if you try to send Hekate?

 

[Adr990]

What happens if you try to send Hekate?

Huh, that loaded up fine. Then shut down after a few seconds.

Awesome to see it light up, that's promising.

 

[Natsuru]

Fixed the bridge and continued with the install. Chip works but now after assembly the case if holding down the trinket button.
Are we suppose to mod the case in anyway. From images on the net I installed the chip on the heat shield but it seems just a wee high for the case.


I ended up modding the heat shield a little and got it to fit. Thanks for the help and software.
That was a learning experience.

 

[lemmings123]

Deleted post.

 

[lemmings123]

Hi matty. Thanks for the very informative guide. Managed to install mine without issue but afraid im having an issue with my sons modchip install. Soldered trinket m0 and flashed with version 1 bootloader joycon only strap and hekatemodchip.uf2. The switch can boot normally to ofw but will not boot with the modchip. Just black screens out. Never goes to the menu asking for missing files. I've double checked usb data line connections. The trinket lights as it should to push the payload when i press volume + and power. I can access switchboot drive using the pc on double reset. If i press reset when booted the joycon disconnects then reconnects as it should. Anything else I can check? Thanks

** edit. Tried the old shaxlauncher in the end and that worked fine so think i'll stick with this as. Problem seems to be installing the firmware file to the trinket i think. When i copy over shaxlauncher it flashes green then proceeds to flash purple a few times i assume to install. When i copy over the hekatemodchip.uf2 it flashes green then ends on a red light. I'm just happy it wasn't my soldering! Cheers

 

[Vipertongn]

Hello, So i bought my modded switch from someone else and it was working great up until my right joyon started getting issues being detected while docked into the switch. I'd see the trinket lights blink when it's not working. I'm suspecting the rail ribbon might be loose. Wanted to see if anyone had any idea on how to resolve (aside from taking apart the switch and pushing it back into the connector.

 

[Hayato213]

Can you use dock mode with the Trinket M0 installed internally?

 

[Natsuru]

Can you use dock mode with the Trinket M0 installed internally?

I do.

 

[Vipertongn]

Hello, So i bought my modded switch from someone else and it was working great up until my right joyon started getting issues being detected while docked into the switch. I'd see the trinket lights blink when it's not working. I'm suspecting the rail ribbon might be loose. Wanted to see if anyone had any idea on how to resolve (aside from taking apart the switch and pushing it back into the connector.

Hey @mattytrog the trinket I have is soldered to the rail... Is the issue I'm having fixable?

 

[mattytrog]

Hi matty. Thanks for the very informative guide. Managed to install mine without issue but afraid im having an issue with my sons modchip install. Soldered trinket m0 and flashed with version 1 bootloader joycon only strap and hekatemodchip.uf2. The switch can boot normally to ofw but will not boot with the modchip. Just black screens out. Never goes to the menu asking for missing files. I've double checked usb data line connections. The trinket lights as it should to push the payload when i press volume + and power. I can access switchboot drive using the pc on double reset. If i press reset when booted the joycon disconnects then reconnects as it should. Anything else I can check? Thanks

** edit. Tried the old shaxlauncher in the end and that worked fine so think i'll stick with this as. Problem seems to be installing the firmware file to the trinket i think. When i copy over shaxlauncher it flashes green then proceeds to flash purple a few times i assume to install. When i copy over the hekatemodchip.uf2 it flashes green then ends on a red light. I'm just happy it wasn't my soldering! Cheers

Yep. Black screen known issue.

See the basic uf2 file thread in modchips section for more info.

Nutshell...

I wrote a fucking big bug into a new feature. I didn`t test correctly... A hard drive died and I lost all my previous sources. So doing a rewrite of the chip firmware.

Like I said in the other thread... I remember why I packed up this f**king programming game back in the 90s.

Still... Always preferred moto 68000 assembler anyway

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Hey @mattytrog the trinket I have is soldered to the rail... Is the issue I'm having fixable?

Anything is fixable

I`d remove that wire and solder it to the board. Do it properly.

Personal opinion (which should be completely ignored)... I`ve seen people solder straight to the rail like that and I think its a rough-arse pikey job.
Not saying you are! I just think its lazy, unsafe and untidy.

I`d put it on to the board. I`ll walk you through it if you like if you got the kit. Or ship it over to me. I`ve had them from further away than the good old US.

 

[Vipertongn]

Yep. Black screen known issue.

See the basic uf2 file thread in modchips section for more info.

Nutshell...

I wrote a fucking big bug into a new feature. I didn`t test correctly... A hard drive died and I lost all my previous sources. So doing a rewrite of the chip firmware.

Like I said in the other thread... I remember why I packed up this f**king programming game back in the 90s.

Still... Always preferred moto 68000 assembler anyway

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Anything is fixable

I`d remove that wire and solder it to the board. Do it properly.

Personal opinion (which should be completely ignored)... I`ve seen people solder straight to the rail like that and I think its a rough-arse pikey job.
Not saying you are! I just think its lazy, unsafe and untidy.

I`d put it on to the board. I`ll walk you through it if you like if you got the kit. Or ship it over to me. I`ve had them from further away than the good old US.

Matty! If you could fix the job for me I'd be grateful.i got this switch off someone who had someone else do it. So I don't have any tools nor the knowledge of how to solder. There's a few little things I noticed about the mod, but I'd prefer to dm you about it.

 

[lemmings123]

Thanks for the update mate. Ive been keeping an eye on the other thread so noticed others were having a similar issue after me. Just my luck to try and do the install at that precise moment. S**t happens....it was a good training excercise for my soldering though Will await your new update. Thanks for all the helpful advice throught the thread. Helped troubleshoot no end cheers