Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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hi matty,

when using method 1 is is only possible with autorcm or aswell with a jcm jig?

thanks!
Use either. I use a modded joycon without autoRCM on one of mine, with SXos emunand.

autoRCM isn't crucial unless you want to save fuses.
 

slinso

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thanks for your answer!

no i dont want so save fuses. at the moment i have no modded joycon, just a rcm jig.
is it also possible to use method 1 with the joycon rcm strap on pin 3 of the m0 trinket?
 

mattytrog

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thanks for your answer!

no i dont want so save fuses. at the moment i have no modded joycon, just a rcm jig.
is it also possible to use method 1 with the joycon rcm strap on pin 3 of the m0 trinket?
Yes. But you will have to push in back cover to reset the trinket as it only activates the joy con strap when reset is pushed
 

slinso

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interesting, and thats why i need the blue wire (power switch for reset) applied to get it working without pressing reset button on the trinket, cuz the trinket will reset when hitting switchs power button? i suppose this is method 2 then.

are there any drawbacks for method 2 at the moment? i read about issues? as i have no modded joycon i would test at first method 1 and would try method 2 aswell afterwards...

thanks!
 

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interesting, and thats why i need the blue wire (power switch for reset) applied to get it working without pressing reset button on the trinket, cuz the trinket will reset when hitting switchs power button? i suppose this is method 2 then.
Precisely!

are there any drawbacks for method 2 at the moment? i read about issues? as i have no modded joycon i would test at first method 1 and would try method 2 aswell afterwards...

thanks!

Apart from having to set a mode that disables the straps on the Trinket and a proper power-on sequence that I posted earlier, no. Everything is normal.

Method 2, logically, should work perfectly. But people seem to be having issues. I really need testers who can report back in real time. It works perfectly for me. But folk have issues.
 

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Thank you. My trinket will arrive this weekend. Will try method 1 in the first place, but would prefer method 2 ans will try out after i got the first working.

One last question regarding the aluminium back plate. when i completely remove it from the switch, is the a high amount of heat generation or is it save to play without?

Thanks for your time and patience!
 

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Thank you. My trinket will arrive this weekend. Will try method 1 in the first place, but would prefer method 2 ans will try out after i got the first working.

One last question regarding the aluminium back plate. when i completely remove it from the switch, is the a high amount of heat generation or is it save to play without?

Thanks for your time and patience!
Don`t remove it. Modify it.
shield.jpg
 

mattytrog

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EUREKA!!!

I think I have done it.

Modified the bootloader to correctly pull the joycon strap low fast enough.

Anyone want to try? Method 2...
 

brickmii82

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EUREKA!!!

I think I have done it.

Modified the bootloader to correctly pull the joycon strap low fast enough.

Anyone want to try? Method 2...
Just started tear down. If I understand correctly, I won't need a jig at all because the Trinket shorts the pins with method 2 if you hold down the button?
 

mattytrog

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Just started tear down. If I understand correctly, I won't need a jig at all because the Trinket shorts the pins with method 2 if you hold down the button?
If I have done it right, which I think I have, no need to hold any buttons down. I`ve made 2 versions of the uf2 bootloader.

1 that pulls the joycon strap low at boot time, the other pulls joycon and vol+ strap low. No need to solder reset switch or anything.

Basically, its method 1 with the joycon strap or both joycon strap and vol+ straps pulled low, so autoRCM is not required.

If this works... I think it will... We have cracked it. A true non-battery-draining solution that doesn`t require autoRCM

@evilsperm
 

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Another thing.. Method 3 users will only need to swap their power point. Where is everybody when I need to test!!! lol

Impatient barstard here.

Right... The zip I have attached contains 3 files.

Double-press RESET to get into UF2 mode... Make a copy of your current CURRENT.UF2 and keep it somewhere.

All 3 are UF2 files.

switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST1.uf2 = is the UF2 bootloader with just the joycon strap pulled low.
switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST2.uf2 = is BOTH STRAPS pulled low
All-in-one-loader-test.UF2 = is the chainloader with all straps disabled. As they don`t need to be enabled in the chainloader any more. It is now done at low level.

So, the drill is...
  • Get into UF2 mode (double-press reset)
  • Flash one of the switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader files... Drag and drop the UF2 to TRINKETBOOT
  • Once flashed, a SWITCHBOOT drive will pop up.
  • Flash the All-In-One-Loader-Test. Drag and drop to SWITCHBOOT

Try booting.

Good luck everybody!

Oh yeah... Getting into UF2 mode is a little different... Basically press reset, then wait for a second then press reset again... Might take a few tries until you get the knack of it... I have altered the timing of the double-press ever so slightly as a side-effect of my modifications.

Try one, try both. If you want to go back to as you were before, attached is the stock Trinket bootloader and once you have dragged that over, drag your original current.uf2 back
 

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D

Deleted-172301

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Another thing.. Method 3 users will only need to swap their power point. Where is everybody when I need to test!!! lol

Impatient barstard here.

Right... The zip I have attached contains 3 files.

Double-press RESET to get into UF2 mode... Make a copy of your current CURRENT.UF2 and keep it somewhere.

All 3 are UF2 files.

switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST1.uf2 = is the UF2 bootloader with just the joycon strap pulled low.
switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST2.uf2 = is BOTH STRAPS pulled low
All-in-one-loader-test.UF2 = is the chainloader with all straps disabled. As they don`t need to be enabled in the chainloader any more. It is now done at low level.

So, the drill is...
  • Get into UF2 mode (double-press reset)
  • Flash one of the switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader files... Drag and drop the UF2 to TRINKETBOOT
  • Once flashed, a SWITCHBOOT drive will pop up.
  • Flash the All-In-One-Loader-Test. Drag and drop to SWITCHBOOT

Try booting.

Good luck everybody!

Oh yeah... Getting into UF2 mode is a little different... Basically press reset, then wait for a second then press reset again... Might take a few tries until you get the knack of it... I have altered the timing of the double-press ever so slightly as a side-effect of my modifications.

Try one, try both. If you want to go back to as you were before, attached is the stock Trinket bootloader and once you have dragged that over, drag your original current.uf2 back
Oh man, this is exciting. If this works I'm sending my switch to get chipped sooner rather than later. I'm waiting on a jig so I can back up my nand first.
 
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brickmii82

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Another thing.. Method 3 users will only need to swap their power point. Where is everybody when I need to test!!! lol

Impatient barstard here.

Right... The zip I have attached contains 3 files.

Double-press RESET to get into UF2 mode... Make a copy of your current CURRENT.UF2 and keep it somewhere.

All 3 are UF2 files.

switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST1.uf2 = is the UF2 bootloader with just the joycon strap pulled low.
switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST2.uf2 = is BOTH STRAPS pulled low
All-in-one-loader-test.UF2 = is the chainloader with all straps disabled. As they don`t need to be enabled in the chainloader any more. It is now done at low level.

So, the drill is...
  • Get into UF2 mode (double-press reset)
  • Flash one of the switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader files... Drag and drop the UF2 to TRINKETBOOT
  • Once flashed, a SWITCHBOOT drive will pop up.
  • Flash the All-In-One-Loader-Test. Drag and drop to SWITCHBOOT

Try booting.

Good luck everybody!

Oh yeah... Getting into UF2 mode is a little different... Basically press reset, then wait for a second then press reset again... Might take a few tries until you get the knack of it... I have altered the timing of the double-press ever so slightly as a side-effect of my modifications.

Try one, try both. If you want to go back to as you were before, attached is the stock Trinket bootloader and once you have dragged that over, drag your original current.uf2 back
PWR still the same spot as on the OP?
 

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I think I bricked my console today. I installed the SwitchMe mod chip and first it worked fine. But I went afk while a game was paused in the dock (Hollow Knight) and when I came back, the switch was powered off. I tried to turn it on but nothing works. Holding the power button 12 seconds while the original cable is plugin in and put it back into the dock didn't help. I thought my soldering points were pretty good. I used the new 4 wire setup with 3.3v from the NAND.

Can I do anything? Any recommendations?
Later today I will open the switch again and try to plug off the battery for about 30 seconds hoping that helps.
 

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switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST1.uf2 = is the UF2 bootloader with just the joycon strap pulled low.
switch_trinket_uf2_bootloader_TEST2.uf2 = is BOTH STRAPS pulled low

means file 1 is for dual boot and file 2 is for autoboot to cfw on method 2 without reset wire?
 

mattytrog

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means file 1 is for dual boot and file 2 is for autoboot to cfw on method 2 without reset wire?
Correct!!!

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I think I bricked my console today. I installed the SwitchMe mod chip and first it worked fine. But I went afk while a game was paused in the dock (Hollow Knight) and when I came back, the switch was powered off. I tried to turn it on but nothing works. Holding the power button 12 seconds while the original cable is plugin in and put it back into the dock didn't help. I thought my soldering points were pretty good. I used the new 4 wire setup with 3.3v from the NAND.

Can I do anything? Any recommendations?
Later today I will open the switch again and try to plug off the battery for about 30 seconds hoping that helps.
Can you take a picture of your install please?

I`m guessing it is your GND point.
 
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mattytrog

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With these bootloader files...

We can have proper dual-boot or permanent CFW boot without autoRCM.

So all methods can become like method 1 or 2, without constant chip power (aka method 3) required.

There should be no gremlins...
No power-on-reset (sensing rising voltage for reset).

Should just "work".

Any results yet?

Would like to hear from method 3 users who have tried it.
 

ROEKENS

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Hello Mattytrog
You have made a large big job with many version and informations... too many then!
Can you calrify with method, with appropriate cabling mode need to be executed?
I feel a bit lost
Ex I use a M0 with dual boot + multi boot as target

How do i need to plug M0 on SWITCH ( pin modele) with all alternative point contact ( recommanded plug method: 1? 3?)
How to initialise ( before remove USB port for ex with UF2 file ( wicth one)
How to modify ( wehn it s yet inside the SWICTH)
How to test

Material necessary to perform such action
Wicth files use??
Sorry but i read many of post ans dont be able to sum up them?

Thnaks a lot
Laurent
 

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