Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[marhalloweenvt]

Waste a night for just a dumb issue and now can make xiao works normally. I think I should buy some sandpapers.

 

[binkinator]

Waste a night for just a dumb issue and now can make xiao works normally. I think I should buy some sandpapers.

What was the issue?

 

[marhalloweenvt]

What was the issue?

I can't drag-n-drop uf2 into my Xiao. Whenever I did it, it always frozen, and nothing happen. At first, I think my Xiao has some bootloader problem (at that time, I don't have spare pc to test again), so I use J-link OB clone to manually flash Arduino bootloader again. After that, same thing happened, I can't upgrade nor clear my Xiao with "drag-n-drop" method, always froze. Whole night, I just tried to flash another bootloader for Xiao: micropython, circuitpython,.... and they all gave the same results.
With my last energy and an empty mind in yesterday night, I just randomly type "circuitpython hang when uf2" and hopeless, and Google makes it, right in top result:

P/s: I think I should stop using my WD Passport from now on

 

[binkinator]

I can't drag-n-drop uf2 into my Xiao. Whenever I did it, it always frozen, and nothing happen. At first, I think my Xiao has some bootloader problem (at that time, I don't have spare pc to test again), so I use J-link OB clone to manually flash Arduino bootloader again. After that, same thing happened, I can't upgrade nor clear my Xiao with "drag-n-drop" method, always froze. Whole night, I just tried to flash another bootloader for Xiao: micropython, circuitpython,.... and they all gave the same results.
With my last energy and an empty mind in yesterday night, I just randomly type "circuitpython hang when uf2" and hopeless, and Google makes it, right in top result:

View attachment 357007

P/s: I think I should stop using my WD Passport from now on

Oh my god. That’s…awful!

 

[cpasjuste]

Hi guys!

I finally took the time to do this modification, i wanted to do it since a while but didn't had the time to...

All went well until i did the vol+ strap (well, i'm not the only one it seems), the strap was nicely soldered, but i guess i did "kill" the resistor when i put the iron on it because of the heat (vol+ was only working to enter rcm/fusee mode at boot). I was able to "fix" it by shorting the resistor, i guess that's not optimal (i don't think i would have been able to replace it) but at least it's now fully working, it seems

Now i have a little question thought, i think my USB strap is not correctly soldered/working (while it seems very fine with a microscope). When i boot to the rcm/fusee "bootloader/menu", it doesn't detect the usb strap (ask for reboot), and if i power off the device and put it on charge, i just have a black screen (it goes to rcm mode but doesn't launch the rcm/fusee "bootloader/menu"). It seems i can only power-on the device when it's not connected to USB. Is it a normal behavior, or as i think is my USB strap wrong?

Thanks in advance for any advices,
cpasjuste !

Edit: please note that i still have autoRCM enabled in flash, may it be a problem?

 

[binkinator]

Hi guys!

I finally took the time to do this modification, i wanted to do it since a while but didn't had the time to...

All went well until i did the vol+ strap (well, i'm not the only one it seems), the strap was nicely soldered, but i guess i did "kill" the resistor when i put the iron on it because of the heat (vol+ was only working to enter rcm/fusee mode at boot). I was able to "fix" it by shorting the resistor, i guess that's not optimal (i don't think i would have been able to replace it) but at least it's now fully working, it seems

Now i have a little question thought, i think my USB strap is not correctly soldered/working (while it seems very fine with a microscope). When i boot to the rcm/fusee "bootloader/menu", it doesn't detect the usb strap (ask for reboot), and if i power off the device and put it on charge, i just have a black screen (it goes to rcm mode but doesn't launch the rcm/fusee "bootloader/menu"). It seems i can only power-on the device when it's not connected to USB. Is it a normal behavior, or as i think is my USB strap wrong?

Thanks in advance for any advices,
cpasjuste !

I would want to fix that resistor, but that's just me. :-)

Having anything plugged into the USB will interfere w/ the boot process. You will see the chip trigger when you disconnect the USB cable. This is normal.

 

[cpasjuste]

I would want to fix that resistor, but that's just me. :-)

Having anything plugged into the USB will interfere w/ the boot process. You will see the chip trigger when you disconnect the USB cable. This is normal.

Thanks for the reply

Thing is the chip doesn't seems to "trigger" when i disconnect the charging cable, i have to keep pressing the power button to force shutdown and push it back to power on :

• Switch is powered off
• Put the USB charger in > one red light from trinket, black screen
• Remove the USB charger > nothing happen, i have to fully reset to power on the device

Ps: i would like to fix that resistor too, but i'm almost sure i do not have the skills to do so :'(

 

[binkinator]

Thanks for the reply

Thing is the chip doesn't seems to "trigger" when i disconnect the charging cable, i have to keep pressing the power button to force shutdown and push it back to power on :

• Switch is powered off
• Put the USB charger in > one red light from trinket, black screen
• Remove the USB charger > nothing happen, i have to fully reset to power on the device

Ps: i would like to fix that resistor too, but i'm almost sure i do not have the skills to do so :'(

I seem to recall there was a “thing” about misbehaving straps not showing up. I can’t seem to find it at the moment but I will keep looking. You might need to go in and set that strap in the config and reboot and see if that fixes things. I know how to do this I’m the old v6 and v7 but maybe some of the guys using v9+ can chime in.

Post automatically merged: Mar 13, 2023

Found it!

https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...press-guide-files-support.508068/post-9652237

basically the detections script runs after first boot…one time. So if you flashed your trinket outside of the Switch and powered up before installing it will not pick up all your straps. Reflash image 1 and then image 2 now that it’s been installed and it should work.

 

[cpasjuste]

I seem to recall there was a “thing” about misbehaving straps not showing up. I can’t seem to find it at the moment but I will keep looking. You might need to go in and set that strap in the config and reboot and see if that fixes things. I know how to do this I’m the old v6 and v7 but maybe some of the guys using v9+ can chime in.

Post automatically merged: Mar 13, 2023

Found it!

https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...press-guide-files-support.508068/post-9652237

basically the detections script runs after first boot…one time. So if you flashed your trinket outside of the Switch and powered up before installing it will not pick up all your straps. Reflash image 1 and then image 2 now that it’s been installed and it should work.

Thanks for taking the time to search (and find) the right information
I maybe still have something wrong with the usb strap as reflashing doesn't seems to fix the strap detection.
One thing thought is when i enter uf2 update mode, the first drive that appears is a "FUSEE" one, with a "TRINKET.UF2" file in it (where i put the part1) then it mount a second time with the same name and file "TRINKET.UF2", this seems strange to me... I'm not sure i'm actually (re)flashing the "PART 1".

 

[binkinator]

Thanks for taking the time to search (and find) the right information
I maybe still have something wrong with the usb strap as reflashing doesn't seems to fix the strap detection.
One thing thought is when i enter uf2 update mode, the first drive that appears is a "FUSEE" one, with a "TRINKET.UF2" file in it (where i put the part1) then it mount a second time with the same name and file "TRINKET.UF2", this seems strange to me...

You are replacing the default one. It gets moved to the correct file name on its own. This is the correct behavior.

Well, nuts on the detection bit. Must be time to start tracing wires and checking for shorts and opens. Be sure to leave the wires in place on the mother board side but take them off the chip while you test.

 

[hippy dave]

Thanks for the reply

Thing is the chip doesn't seems to "trigger" when i disconnect the charging cable, i have to keep pressing the power button to force shutdown and push it back to power on :

• Switch is powered off
• Put the USB charger in > one red light from trinket, black screen
• Remove the USB charger > nothing happen, i have to fully reset to power on the device

Ps: i would like to fix that resistor too, but i'm almost sure i do not have the skills to do so :'(

Idk why your strap isn't working, but something that might help until you get it figured out is that pressing the button on the modchip, which you can do by pressing the right location on the back case of the Switch, resets the modchip and pushes the payload. Doing this will get your Switch booting when it's otherwise stuck in RCM, so you don't have to shut down the console.
Edit: for clarity, this needs doing after you've disconnected the offending USB cable.

 

[binkinator]

Idk why your strap isn't working, but something that might help until you get it figured out is that pressing the button on the modchip, which you can do by pressing the right location on the back case of the Switch, resets the modchip and pushes the payload. Doing this will get your Switch booting when it's otherwise stuck in RCM, so you don't have to shut down the console.

I’ve had mine in for years and did not know to do this. Nice!

 

[cpasjuste]

I’ve had mine in for years and did not know to do this. Nice!

Yeah, from what I saw (and remember) @hippy dave goes deeper than most of us when he "study" a subject By the way, nice to see you again.

Else, on the subject, tomorrow I'm going to "inspect" what I did with the USB strap and probably redo/resolder it to see what happens. While it's probably not interesting for anyone I'll be back to report !

Also, I have to say that it's a lot of nice work here (all the trinket code and such), and while it doesn't change a life, I'm very happy to have done It. I may even, enventually, "work" on it to add more options and play with the Ui.

 

[binkinator]

Yeah, from what I saw (and remember) @hippy dave goes deeper than most of us when he "study" a subject

I agree, @hippy dave wears Kmart underwear and flies Quantas!

By the way, nice to see you again.

likewise

Else, on the subject, tomorrow I'm going to "inspect" what I did with the USB strap and probably redo/resolder it to see what happens. While it's probably not interesting for anyone I'll be back to report !

Always appreciate the nuance people find with their Trinket installs. The info will invariably help someone in the future.

Also, I have to say that it's a lot of nice work (all the trinket code and such), and while it doesn't change a life, I'm very happy to have done It.

@mattytrog was a rare breed. I wish he would come back some day so we could thank him for all his gifts to the community.

 

[swutch]

Had a similar problem.
The USB disconnect strap was not detected.
Flashing a config file with "JVU = ALL STRAPS PRE_CHECKED", fixed it for me.

edit:
one of these:
https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE/tree/master/Fusee-Suite/SETTINGS_UF2

 

[cpasjuste]

Had a similar problem.
The USB disconnect strap was not detected.
Flashing a config file with "JVU = ALL STRAPS PRE_CHECKED", fixed it for me.

edit:
one of these:
https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE/tree/master/Fusee-Suite/SETTINGS_UF2

Hi, thanks mate, it seems it worked Now when i power-off the switch, put it on charge, and unplug it, it directly "power-on" and boot to OS.
One thing thought, it's normal that the screen is off (there is no charge indicator etc) when powered-off and with charger plugged-in ?

 

[EnterpriseFreak]

Hello guys, I just finished installing a ItsyBitsy chip into my switch (four wire method, as I'm just going to use AutoRCM and not fuck with the additional two pins) and I have a bit of an issue. When I'm using a RCM jig while powering up the console it's booting into the UF2 payload as expected but when I'm booting without the jig the switch stays in RCM mode, the LED just briefly flashes purple and red. If I press the reset button on the chip it then proceeds to inject the payload. Does everyone have an idea what might be causing this issue with Auto RCM but not the Jig?

 

[Hayato213]

Hello guys, I just finished installing a ItsyBitsy chip into my switch (four wire method, as I'm just going to use AutoRCM and not fuck with the additional two pins) and I have a bit of an issue. When I'm using a RCM jig while powering up the console it's booting into the UF2 payload as expected but when I'm booting without the jig the switch stays in RCM mode, the LED just briefly flashes purple and red. If I press the reset button on the chip it then proceeds to inject the payload. Does everyone have an idea what might be causing this issue with Auto RCM but not the Jig?

If it is on AutoRCM it should read the UF2 payload on the modchip if you have no SD card connect, and it would inject payload.bin in the bootloader folder if you have it setup.

 

[EnterpriseFreak]

If it is on AutoRCM it should read the UF2 payload on the modchip if you have no SD card connect, and it would inject payload.bin in the bootloader folder if you have it setup.

Looks like I somehow messed up flashing the chip, reflashed Part 1 and Part 2 - it's working now.

 

[Mr.ButtButt]

After messing around with my trinket and my switch for 2 days and troubleshooting that stupid resistor for Vol+, I had to remove it and just bridge it with a wire. when i turn my switch off from either OFW or my Emunand, it automatically reboots to my Hekate Payload, and the only way to turn it off off is by powering off in that or the fusee suite. What's worse is when the system is powered off, randomly, it will turn back on by itself. I haven't seen anyone mention this or have an issue along these lines. Is there anything I can do?