How to practice kamikaze.

Blakejansen

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I only have one broken switch motherboard to practice on. How do you know where you are supposed to grind? I have seen every video I can find, some even from Brazil. I just want to make sure that I can learn the kamikaze method since dat0 adapter isn't the meta anymore.
 

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I only have one broken switch motherboard to practice on. How do you know where you are supposed to grind? I have seen every video I can find, some even from Brazil. I just want to make sure that I can learn the kamikaze method since dat0 adapter isn't the meta anymore.
 

SylverReZ

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In my post above I stated that I had already watched most of the videos on YouTube in regard to this topic.

I was looking for people that had experience that could share tips.
There are tips in this video, did you watch it throughout? Use a bead of flux every time you grind through a layer. Make sure you designate the exact spot for the point by placing a strip of masking tape onto the motherboard, and mark it, so you know where exactly it is.
 
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Blakejansen

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There are tips in this video, did you watch it throughout? Use a bead of flux every time you grind through a layer. Make sure you designate the exact spot for the point by placing a strip of masking tape onto the motherboard, and mark it, so you know where exactly it is.
I've watched it many times. Is there a way to measure with a ruler to know exactly where I need to grind? In the video the guy just measures it with kapton tape, but he already knows where it is.

I'm not sure why you are laughing at my previous post. It was mentioned multiple times that I had already watched videos and I wanted text descriptions.

It's ironic that you are implying that I didn't watch the video thoroughly enough when you did not read my first post at all and replied with a video.

I would appreciate if in the future you refrained from posting on my threads. Over a year ago, I DM'd you on discord asking you a somewhat complicated question about hardware mods, and you sent me a guide on RCM and blocked me.

Modding should be a fun and inclusive hobby. Being better or worse at modding doesn't give you the right to patronize others or look down on them.

You don't know what others are going through and being a bully isn't going to make your own life any better than it is.
 

TheStonedModder

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I've watched it many times. Is there a way to measure with a ruler to know exactly where I need to grind? In the video the guy just measures it with kapton tape, but he already knows where it is.

I'm not sure why you are laughing at my previous post. It was mentioned multiple times that I had already watched videos and I wanted text descriptions.

It's ironic that you are implying that I didn't watch the video thoroughly enough when you did not read my first post at all and replied with a video.

I would appreciate if in the future you refrained from posting on my threads. Over a year ago, I DM'd you on discord asking you a somewhat complicated question about hardware mods, and you sent me a guide on RCM and blocked me.

Modding should be a fun and inclusive hobby. Being better or worse at modding doesn't give you the right to patronize others or look down on them.

You don't know what others are going through and being a bully isn't going to make your own life any better than it is.
I’ve never installed one of these mod chips? Is there a lot of stuff in the way of the point you have to drill?

I wonder if someone could design a 3d printable “jig” that can sit/taped into place to hold your spot and make sure you get it perfect every time

Iirc Xbox 360 had one of these for their own kamikaze
 

linuxares

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I wonder if someone could design a 3d printable “jig” that can sit/taped into place to hold your spot and make sure you get it perfect every time
I'm curious if someone will make one. Heck getting it done via PCBWay wouldn't be to expensive either to have a proper tool.
 

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I'm curious if someone will make one. Heck getting it done via PCBWay wouldn't be to expensive either to have a proper tool.
Having a jig will make this a lot easier. I remember with the kamikaze hack for the 360, you had to drill in the exact spot of the MediaTek chip, and most of the time you cannot tell whether you drilled into the right place. So this will definitely benefit other users.
 
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TheStonedModder

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I'm curious if someone will make one. Heck getting it done via PCBWay wouldn't be to expensive either to have a proper tool.
Well if someone designs one I’d happily print them out for the community for the cost of filament + shipping. I don’t really want to open my OLED for measurements for a mod i don’t intend to do/try or I would myself.

I guess if someone shared the measurements with me, I could try and design one too but I wouldn’t have a way to test it

I’m honestly surprised someone hasn’t done so already with all the hacky things I’ve seen people do already ha
 
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linuxares

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Having a jig will make this a lot easier. I remember with the kamikaze hack for the 360, you had to drill in the exact spot of the MediaTek chip, and most of the time you cannot tell whether you drilled into the right place. So this will definitely benefit other users.
Correct to "break" that part of the lock.

For OLED the place that is best is discussable but I think a jig with a drill/drill pen(?) that just allows you to get down to the right place would help a lot
 
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linuxares

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Well if someone designs one I’d happily print them out for the community for the cost of filament + shipping. I don’t really want to open my OLED for measurements for a mod i don’t intend to do/try or I would myself.

I guess if someone shared the measurements with me, I could try and design one too but I wouldn’t have a way to test it

I’m honestly surprised someone hasn’t done so already with all the hacky things I’ve seen people do already ha
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10202368 but what can this be? like 3 layers down?
 

TheStonedModder

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I more so mean measurements like from a top down view

Sort of like how people were showing the HWFLY wiring if that makes sense. I can than just scale that image to real size in fusion360 if i tell it the exact mm distance between two points

But that photo and the videos on YouTube I’ve seen help. I think it’s only like 2mm down..maybe not even that? If I knew that depth we could also make the “jig” just thick enough so you can’t go too deep(I guess assuming the user uses the same tool we designed around )
 

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Way ahead of you. Already made a mockup sometime ago to see how a drill bit would stand up. The bit I used was simply a shaved screw taking an arch shape 0.2mm deep from the baseline of the hole. The problem I faced was this screw would deteriorate after one use. The other thing for this to work the jig would HAVE to be made from metal as any slight deviation would just shave into any other soft material.
 

TheStonedModder

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Way ahead of you. Already made a mockup sometime ago to see how a drill bit would stand up. The bit I used was simply a shaved screw taking an arch shape 0.2mm deep from the baseline of the hole. The problem I faced was this screw would deteriorate after one use. The other thing for this to work the jig would HAVE to be made from metal as any slight deviation would just shave into any other soft material.
Surely there is something better than a shaved screw to use

Also you can print pretty strong materials. If we use something more akin to how people drilled out the dvd drive on the Xbox (or really any more proper tool really) the jig should hold up just fine as long as it’s not printed in PLA with like 10% infill

You could even print it at a 45 degree angle to make sure the layer lines are angled too making it that much harder to drill though or split as well

I’ve used PETG to drill through to mount stuff in my wall and never drilled through the material unless I was being dumb and missed the screw or something else
 

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But I think a jig with a drill/drill pen(?) that just allows you to get down to the right place would help a lot
I don't think a drill pen like what the Maximus kamikaze jig has will even help to get down to the pad, as you may risk damaging the board and the point. You need a dremel to sand away the layers. For the jig, there should be a gap to make enough room for the dremel to scrape away the location of the point.
 
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BigOnYa

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Maybe if use a drill bit like this, but tiny obv, that takes away the surface, but not destroy that point. You would have to know how far to go down though. I still think dremel be safer.
forstner-bits_big_0-487447593.jpg
 
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Hassal

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Surely there is something better than a shaved screw to use

Also you can print pretty strong materials. If we use something more akin to how people drilled out the dvd drive on the Xbox (or really any more proper tool really) the jig should hold up just fine as long as it’s not printed in PLA with like 10% infill

You could even print it at a 45 degree angle to make sure the layer lines are angled too making it that much harder to drill though or split as well

I’ve used PETG to drill through to mount stuff in my wall and never drilled through the material unless I was being dumb and missed the screw or something else
I did this on a whim to test the possibility of using normal screws to dig through the layers. How else would I do this without spending a fortune to machine such bits with point accuracy? Obviously my accuracy was off since I did this with eye estimate.

The thing is, it can be done but there would be a cost which I'm not willing to spend.
 

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I did this on a whim to test the possibility of using normal screws to dig through the layers. How else would I do this without spending a fortune to machine such bits with point accuracy? Obviously my accuracy was off since I did this with eye estimate.

The thing is, it can be done but there would be a cost which I'm not willing to spend.
Not QUITE sure but you actually hit with top left hole. its damaged but you can see part of the pad I think.
 

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Not QUITE sure but you actually hit with top left hole. its damaged but you can see part of the pad I think.
It is damaged. It was hard to get a symmetrical shape on this tiny screw so it probably dug deeper than anticipated, subsequent ones seems out okay though until it stopped being effective as it started to wear out.

Point being, this can be achieved with precise bits.
 

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