Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[noX1609]

@mattytrog: So new week new chance
Didn‘t got it working until now.
Now i will try to fix the resistors (solder cables to thr points to easily change the resistor because don‘t know the exact value but soldering to those pins without microscope is really dificult.
Because of that i ordered one at Amazon which has a maximum enlargement of 700x so it should make things a lot easier
What i noticed yesterday is that a secound capacitor is missing at the board so i have to solder a new one in.
Maybe it‘s the reason the console boots without showing anything on the screen. Here i marked red the one i mean:


Another problem actually: I don‘t know the polarity of the capacitor. I mean i can messure where 3v and Ground are on the board but can‘t tell where plus is at the smd cap because there is solder on both sides. Looked it up at google and there you can see that only one side should have a metal part but how to tell it if there is solder on both sides?
Is there maybe the possibility of messuring the resistance or anything else?

 

[a7mag3ddon]

Im currently using method 1 and it works really well without problems, just be wary of that 3v line though make sure you solder it properly with a fine tip ;-)

 

[mattytrog]

Im currently using method 1 and it works really well without problems, just be wary of that 3v line though make sure you solder it properly with a fine tip ;-)

0.3mm conical tip, about 25w max. I solder at 370 degrees on leaded stuff

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog: So new week new chance
Didn‘t got it working until now.
Now i will try to fix the resistors (solder cables to thr points to easily change the resistor because don‘t know the exact value but soldering to those pins without microscope is really dificult.
Because of that i ordered one at Amazon which has a maximum enlargement of 700x so it should make things a lot easier
What i noticed yesterday is that a secound capacitor is missing at the board so i have to solder a new one in.
Maybe it‘s the reason the console boots without showing anything on the screen. Here i marked red the one i mean:
View attachment 135975

Another problem actually: I don‘t know the polarity of the capacitor. I mean i can messure where 3v and Ground are on the board but can‘t tell where plus is at the smd cap because there is solder on both sides. Looked it up at google and there you can see that only one side should have a metal part but how to tell it if there is solder on both sides?
Is there maybe the possibility of messuring the resistance or anything else?

They aren`t electrolytic. So there is no right and wrong way. It is only electrolytic caps that need correct polarity

 

[noX1609]

They aren`t electrolytic. So there is no right and wrong way. It is only electrolytic caps that need correct polarity

Ah ok didn‘t know that That make things a lot easier Hope i can fix the switch so my friend don‘t need to buy a one. But if he wouldn‘t had tried to solder the Trinket himself that wouldn‘t had happen.

 

[Joxley192]

The new file with the restart switch method 1 sx-os works just updated my trinket @mattytrog thank u. U are amazing.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

 

[Joxley192]

But i had to uninstall autorcm to get my pc to read my trinket for some reson with the order files

 

[subcon959]

But i had to uninstall autorcm to get my pc to read my trinket for some reson with the order files

I used method 1 and don't have to remove autorcm or do anything else. I just boot as normal into SX OS and click trinket twice and connect usb cable. It takes a bit of practice to get the timing right but that's all you need.

 

[a7mag3ddon]

0.3mm conical tip, about 25w max. I solder at 370 degrees on leaded stuff

That's exactly what I used Weller PTC number 7 ;-)

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted User]

Sorry if this is already answered, but what do I have to do to make an external dongle? Do I just put on the files and slap a battery on?

 

[mattytrog]

Sorry if this is already answered, but what do I have to do to make an external dongle? Do I just put on the files and slap a battery on?

Yep. The Gemma makes a better dongle

 

[Deleted User]

Yep. The Gemma makes a better dongle

Okay thanks. I already ordered the Trinkets though

 

[mattytrog]

Okay thanks. I already ordered the Trinkets though

No worries. Either is fine.

 

[mattytrog]

OP updated with higher res pics. Should be crystal clear now hopefully...

 

[Joxley192]

They look well better if they cant follow them then no one can help them lol

 

[Deleted User]

Welp, there goes the traces. Good thing I bought a few.

 

[tecfreak]

@mattytrog
Do you have a github repo with all the changes/adjustments you have made?

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog
Do you have a github repo with all the changes/adjustments you have made?

In the process of doing one. Next day or so.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Welp, there goes the traces. Good thing I bought a few.

Use some 40 awg and go to the pins on the qfn. Epoxy in place... Lives to fight another day!

 

[Deleted User]

Use some 40 awg and go to the pins on the qfn. Epoxy in place... Lives to fight another day!

Yeah I'm gonna need to order some of that, these things are just flying off the boards

 

[crow132]

hello there

so ive been playing around with my broken switch after cleaning it with acetone and I realized a few things

after turning on the system and leaving it like that for a while, the system gets hot, that made me though that maybe the system actually gets into RCM mode, but when i connect it to the computer, it's not detected.

then I also remember that once my system died and I tried to turn it on with the trinket still connected, the trinket went on, searched for my system to send the payload but then failed and turned itself off (red light then off)

so I though, hey, what if my system is actually working but what is broken is the ability to send any data through the usb?

I looked then at the usb data pins and they look like this (look at the picture below)

so yeah, i think that maybe my system is not 100% dead rly… still, since I have autorcm and I'm an ignorant, I can't prove anything at all, but I think everything falls together pretty nicely

 

[noX1609]

@mattytrog: Thanks for posting the new detail pics, think they will help me when i continue trying to fix the switch They are great because you can see the traces under the protection layer which help me finding out where the points are going to.