Homebrew Question 3D Printed Jig Issue

ShaytheStar

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Hello, the paperclip version jig I recently 3D printed from Maketo isn't working. Perhaps I'm not placing the clip down enough or maybe it's the wrong size. I couldn't find a "0,9 mm" paperclip anywhere on the Internet and settled for one that looked big enough that I had on hand. I've included some pictures.

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YJTkX37.jpg


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A8taPaB.jpg

(Also, if this type of content isn't allowed here, feel free to remove it, and I apologize since I'm new here...and please point me to the forum rules because I can't find them!)
 
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ShaytheStar

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Oh, I never thought that was important.... Thanks. Oh, yeah, duh. Now I feel dumb. Don't have much experience with hardware. Thanks, I'll try again.

Edit: It works now!
 
Last edited by ShaytheStar,

Apache Thunder

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@ShaytheStar You seemed to have fixed your issue. But here's a photo of mine. I had a similar issue where mine wasn't making contact. I got a jig premade off eBay. But the wire the seller used was too soft/thin. The wire used in Ethernet cords is solid copper (at least as long as you don't get a super cheap ass cord. :P ) and was a perfect fit to the jig. Here's what it should look like:

TheJig.jpg

(the back of the jig isn't visible here. But yes this is a single wire looped around to both pin locations. They obviously need to be like this to "connect" pin 1 to pin 10 else the jig wouldn't work. :P )

The little bumps in the wire at the end are important. If you don't have those bends, it won't make contact and you'll have issues. Using thicker wire may help, but thinner solid copper with the bends will work just as well and won't stress the contacts on your rail as much. ;)
 
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ShaytheStar

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@ShaytheStar You seemed to have fixed your issue. But here's a photo of mine. I had a similar issue where mine wasn't making contact. I got a jig premade off eBay. But the wire the seller used was too soft/thin. The wire used in Ethernet cords is solid copper (at least as long as you don't get a super cheap ass cord. :P ) and was a perfect fit to the jig. Here's what it should look like:

View attachment 130806
(the back of the jig isn't visible here. But yes this is a single wire looped around to both pin locations. They obviously need to be like this to "connect" pin 1 to pin 10 else the jig wouldn't work. :P )

The little bumps in the wire at the end are important. If you don't have those bends, it won't make contact and you'll have issues. Using thicker wire may help, but thinner solid copper with the bends will work just as well and won't stress the contacts on your rail as much. ;)

I'm using a paperclip actually, not wire, and it seems to be thick enough to not require the bumps as I haven't had any issues so far. Thank you, though!
 

NightlyParadox

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From my experience the FoF design is much harder to work with, with needing to hack up a micro USB connector for it, I could never get the FoF design to actually work so I went with the Thingyverse print and it's worked perfect.
 

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