Hardware Project [WIP] Updated Loopy Controller mod

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WarioWaffles

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I've been on a 3DS family modding kick and I wanted to finally tackle the Loopy controller mod, I did still have an old board I never installed but he stopped selling them and released the design files. I emailed him on his forum asking for permission to remix/change his mod and he said yes (he said it was the point of him releasing the design files so someone else could tackle it if they wanted).

After futzing around here and there for months today marks a huge milestone for this modification as I've finally got it hooked up and was able to use my gamecube controller. The main feature of my modifications is to make it far easier to install though I'm not crazy enough to pay for a flex pcb that covers the whole back of the 3DS xl motherboard I think I've found a fair compromise eliminating 11 hook up wire pads. The second thing is tackling the fiddliness of the connector. I've gone with a USBC cable but finding a pre-built cable that has the right conductors has been a nightmare (6 conductor cables usually have CC1 and CC2 as separate conductors so I need a 7-8p cable with no special chips in it for rapid charging or other such nonsense).

Currently I'm using a 24p USBC breakout board and I have some resin cases for the cable in mind but the spirit of the project is ease of use so again if you know any cables/breakout boards that provide these cables/pins:
B8/A8
A5/B5
B7/A7
A6/B6
A4/B4/B9/A9
B12/A12

Please let me know, I had no idea it'd be such a nightmare to secure some off the shelf USB Type-c cables with 6 unique conductors (I'm counting CC1 and CC2 as one seeing as they require you to have the same resistors on them anyway in the spec and for reversibility).

I haven't done too much play testing as I want to rigid some things up with resin prints as double sided tape does nothing when plugging and unplugging this usbc cable. I have a lot left to do for this project:
-Order new PCBs and finalized flex PCBs, test wing mounted USBC
-Measure, design, and print internal supports to support areas where I clipped plastic
-Design a jig so cuts can be done cleanly and reliably on a drill press
-Buy all compatible controllers then do testing for them
-Source or design cabling solutions
-Buy extra cases for experimentation
-do a lot of it all over again for the different 3ds family systems including the DS family

connector.jpg

PXL_20230923_073658396.jpg

board.jpg


 
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Hi! I'd love to help with this mod and test on my end. I do capture card installations and this would be an awesome thing to look into
 
Hi! I'd love to help with this mod and test on my end. I do capture card installations and this would be an awesome thing to look into
Loopy has his schematics for this open sourced on his website iirc

He just doesn’t fab them no more and it costs to much for a once off for others
 
Loopy has his schematics for this open sourced on his website iirc

He just doesn’t fab them no more and it costs to much for a once off for others
Oh I know, but it someone is already developing someone I'd love to help out rather than going in on something myself and stealing the spotlight
 
Oh I know, but it someone is already developing someone I'd love to help out rather than going in on something myself and stealing the spotlight
since OP has controller inputs running and is having trouble sourcing proper cables. I wonder if it would be easier to try and internalize the open source blueretro project

From my understanding the hardest part with that is figuring out how to interact with the controller signal in the first place which OP has done
 
since OP has controller inputs running and is having trouble sourcing proper cables. I wonder if it would be easier to try and internalize the open source blueretro project

From my understanding the hardest part with that is figuring out how to interact with the controller signal in the first place which OP has done
Gotcha. I've installed a couple of controller mods before myself and I've got one hanging about somewhere
 
since OP has controller inputs running and is having trouble sourcing proper cables. I wonder if it would be easier to try and internalize the open source blueretro project

From my understanding the hardest part with that is figuring out how to interact with the controller signal in the first place which OP has done
Sounds interesting and I'll check it out, but I've found a source for USBC cables now I just need to fab a bunch of a test cables and come up with a way to keep the board still inside the case. I was thinking of soldering the board to the 3DS motherboard but that runs the risk of a catastrophic failure (pulling the cord hard/ it falling) ripping up the motherboard too. Double sided tape won't provide enough resistance to plugging and unplugging the a usbc cable so it's a lot to think of and consider.

My current idea is a resin caddy or cage to restrict side to side and backwards movement and then using those rubber thermal pads you see in gpus and double-sided tape to restrict up and down movement. I was thinking of stealing one of the screw holes and buying an extra long screw that can accommodate my board but I don't think I'll be able to source the tiny screws the 3ds xl uses at the very least not at the lengths I'd need but it's worth thinking about.

EDIT: Also the blueretro project seems much more expensive per board than this device.
 
Sounds interesting and I'll check it out, but I've found a source for USBC cables now I just need to fab a bunch of a test cables and come up with a way to keep the board still inside the case. I was thinking of soldering the board to the 3DS motherboard but that runs the risk of a catastrophic failure (pulling the cord hard/ it falling) ripping up the motherboard too. Double sided tape won't provide enough resistance to plugging and unplugging the a usbc cable so it's a lot to think of and consider.

My current idea is a resin caddy or cage to restrict side to side and backwards movement and then using those rubber thermal pads you see in gpus and double-sided tape to restrict up and down movement. I was thinking of stealing one of the screw holes and buying an extra long screw that can accommodate my board but I don't think I'll be able to source the tiny screws the 3ds xl uses at the very least not at the lengths I'd need but it's worth thinking about.

EDIT: Also the blueretro project seems much more expensive per board than this device.
It wouldn’t be all internalized but what if you did something like this for the cables and just have it attached to the back of the console? Sort of like the original loopy capture card and that bump

I could help you design this if you’d like I have a printer and some CAD experience

https://www.printables.com/model/641099-controller-wire-lock-block-xbox-one-s
 
Just wondering if there are any updates on this. I'm looking into getting some flex cables made. I haven't attempted it before but doing some designing currently. Would love to utilise what you've done
 
Sounds interesting and I'll check it out, but I've found a source for USBC cables now I just need to fab a bunch of a test cables and come up with a way to keep the board still inside the case. I was thinking of soldering the board to the 3DS motherboard but that runs the risk of a catastrophic failure (pulling the cord hard/ it falling) ripping up the motherboard too. Double sided tape won't provide enough resistance to plugging and unplugging the a usbc cable so it's a lot to think of and consider.

My current idea is a resin caddy or cage to restrict side to side and backwards movement and then using those rubber thermal pads you see in gpus and double-sided tape to restrict up and down movement. I was thinking of stealing one of the screw holes and buying an extra long screw that can accommodate my board but I don't think I'll be able to source the tiny screws the 3ds xl uses at the very least not at the lengths I'd need but it's worth thinking about.

EDIT: Also the blueretro project seems much more expensive per board than this device.
What i've done on my 3DS XL and o3DS is JBWeld. It's a bit of a bummer because you can't (easily) remove the port without breaking anything if it dries but has given me the best bond so far. I tried tape, superglue, pressure, you name it, and JBWeld has been the best for me. holding it in with pressure from the bottom of the case is the second best way in my experience, and it has the benefit of being easily removable.
Post automatically merged:

What i've done on my 3DS XL and o3DS is JBWeld. It's a bit of a bummer because you can't (easily) remove the port without breaking anything if it dries but has given me the best bond so far. I tried tape, superglue, pressure, you name it, and JBWeld has been the best for me. holding it in with pressure from the bottom of the case is the second best way in my experience, and it has the benefit of being easily removable.
I haven't tested this before so this is just an idea: If you do the pressure mount method, you could connect the usb c port to the controller mod over thin magnet wire, that way if the cable ever did get yanked it sacrifices the cheap replaceable cables rather than the expensive motherboard
 
I've been on a 3DS family modding kick and I wanted to finally tackle the Loopy controller mod, I did still have an old board I never installed but he stopped selling them and released the design files. I emailed him on his forum asking for permission to remix/change his mod and he said yes (he said it was the point of him releasing the design files so someone else could tackle it if they wanted).

After futzing around here and there for months today marks a huge milestone for this modification as I've finally got it hooked up and was able to use my gamecube controller. The main feature of my modifications is to make it far easier to install though I'm not crazy enough to pay for a flex pcb that covers the whole back of the 3DS xl motherboard I think I've found a fair compromise eliminating 11 hook up wire pads. The second thing is tackling the fiddliness of the connector. I've gone with a USBC cable but finding a pre-built cable that has the right conductors has been a nightmare (6 conductor cables usually have CC1 and CC2 as separate conductors so I need a 7-8p cable with no special chips in it for rapid charging or other such nonsense).

Currently I'm using a 24p USBC breakout board and I have some resin cases for the cable in mind but the spirit of the project is ease of use so again if you know any cables/breakout boards that provide these cables/pins:
[TABLE=full]
[TR]
[td]B8/A8[/td]
[/TR]
[TR]
[td]A5/B5[/td]
[/TR]
[TR]
[td]B7/A7[/td]
[/TR]
[TR]
[td]A6/B6[/td]
[/TR]
[TR]
[td]A4/B4/B9/A9[/td]
[/TR]
[TR]
[td]B12/A12[/td]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Please let me know, I had no idea it'd be such a nightmare to secure some off the shelf USB Type-c cables with 6 unique conductors (I'm counting CC1 and CC2 as one seeing as they require you to have the same resistors on them anyway in the spec and for reversibility).

I haven't done too much play testing as I want to rigid some things up with resin prints as double sided tape does nothing when plugging and unplugging this usbc cable. I have a lot left to do for this project:
-Order new PCBs and finalized flex PCBs, test wing mounted USBC
-Measure, design, and print internal supports to support areas where I clipped plastic
-Design a jig so cuts can be done cleanly and reliably on a drill press
-Buy all compatible controllers then do testing for them
-Source or design cabling solutions
-Buy extra cases for experimentation
-do a lot of it all over again for the different 3ds family systems including the DS family

View attachment 395477
View attachment 395478
View attachment 395479


Loopy has his schematics for this open sourced on his website iirc

He just doesn’t fab them no more and it costs to much for a once off for others
loopys schematics have been removed sometime between this post, and now…

They do not seem to be archived anywhere either.

Do you(or anyone else reading this) happen to have a backup? Maybe you’ve made progress on this mod and shared it already ?
 

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