Hardware Exchanging thermal paste?

Rahkeesh

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More heat transfer is always better. Heat that has transfered out to the shield is heat that’s not sitting inside your CPU. That’s a good thing.

Do you have empirical temperature and fan speed metrics you could share?
I mean it's good for the CPU and fan noise. Not sure it's great for my hands or other components.

Nintendo seems to use a different compound between the pipe and shield (pinkish) vs. the pipe and APU (silver.) Maybe they were just being cheap but they may also have had a different idea about how much conductivity they wanted between each part. IR shields primary job normally isn't sinking heat.

Xenoblade 3 running in handheld, stock CPU/CPU, 1600 RAM gives 47 C CPU, 46 PCB, 44.5 Skin. Fan reports around 26%. The back is a bit uncomfortably warm to hold at that level.
 
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binkinator

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I mean it's good for the CPU and fan noise. Not sure it's great for my hands or other components.

Nintendo seems to use a different compound between the pipe and shield (pinkish) vs. the pipe and APU (silver.) Maybe they were just being cheap but they may also have had a different idea about how much conductivity they wanted between each part. IR shields primary job normally isn't sinking heat.

Xenoblade 3 running in handheld, stock CPU/CPU, 1600 RAM gives 47 CPU, 46 PCB, 44.5 Skin. Fan reports around 26%. The back is a bit uncomfortably warm to hold at that level.

60 degrees during BOTW is normal temp range. You’re running 15 degrees under that and your fan is barely doing anything at all. To be honest it sounds like everything is running perfectly. 47 is about 117 fahrenheit which is a really hot day in the desert but that’s nothing for a chip. None of the Switch’s other components are even close to being in any danger whatsoever.

The compound used by Nintendo was more than adequate as they underclock the chip. It could get a bit old and crusty but even then the Switch doesn’t really have any cooling issues to speak of. I mean I wouldn’t run it with nothing for very long but the difference between compounds is going to mean the fans kick on a few seconds earlier or later. Not much else.
 

deathblade200

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60 degrees during BOTW is normal temp range. You’re running 15 degrees under that and your fan is barely doing anything at all. To be honest it sounds like everything is running perfectly. 47 is about 117 fahrenheit which is a really hot day in the desert but that’s nothing for a chip. None of the Switch’s other components are even close to being in any danger whatsoever.

The compound used by Nintendo was more than adequate as they underclock the chip. It could get a bit old and crusty but even then the Switch doesn’t really have any cooling issues to speak of. I mean I wouldn’t run it with nothing for very long but the difference between compounds is going to mean the fans kick on a few seconds earlier or later. Not much else.
if your switch is hitting 60C with handheld clock speeds you have issues. even on my erista with handheld clock speeds it never goes above 30C. never have changed the thermal paste either. I need to max clock everything to barely hit 60C
 

binkinator

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if your switch is hitting 60C with handheld clock speeds you have issues. even on my erista with handheld clock speeds it never goes above 30C. never have changed the thermal paste either. I need to max clock everything to barely hit 60C

I’ve hit 60 C (peak) on mine playing some of the more challenging games for longer periods of time. It’s high but i I wasn’t concerned and ready to run out and buy protective hand gear to keep playing. The fans kicked in and did their thing.

If you think 47C is cause for alarm please feel free to jump in and provide some tips before this guy runs out and purchases a fire suit in order to continue playing because his new diamond based thermal conductive paste is too efficient at transferring heat out of the CPU and into his hands.

e: I seem to recall thermal cutoff being 65 or 67 degrees or something like that but now I can’t find the link.
 
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xoINARIox

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Nintendo seems to use a different compound between the pipe and shield (pinkish) vs. the pipe and APU (silver.) Maybe they were just being cheap but they may also have had a different idea about how much conductivity they wanted between each part. IR shields primary job normally isn't sinking heat.
Nintendo uses viscose thermal paste between the pipe and the shield:

https://www.amazon.com/viscous-thermal-replacement-60g-Aspire/dp/B00K04D3UK

The shield serves multiple purposes...
  • To direct COOL air to the fan... Leave it off, and the fan is receiving already partially-heated air from the other components on the board.
  • For EMI protection... FCC regs etc
  • To spread heat coming from the SOC, to assist the heatpipe. You don`t think that purple squidgy stuff is there for show do you?
In addition, the temperatures are for xenoblade 3 perfectly ok:switch:
 
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deathblade200

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I’ve hit 60 C (peak) on mine playing some of the more challenging games for longer periods of time. It’s high but i I wasn’t concerned and ready to run out and buy protective hand gear to keep playing. The fans kicked in and did their thing.

If you think 47C is cause for alarm please feel free to jump in and provide some tips before this guy runs out and purchases a fire suit in order to continue playing because his new diamond based thermal conductive paste is too efficient at transferring heat out of the CPU and into his hands.

e: I seem to recall thermal cutoff being 65 or 67 degrees or something like that but now I can’t find the link.
think you missed the part where 60 is high for handheld clock speeds. no switch should get that hot in handheld no matter what game it is or how long its played. if its hitting 60 in handheld you really have some issues that need to be fixed. id call around 45 the peak for handheld temperature
 

binkinator

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think you missed the part where 60 is high for handheld clock speeds. no switch should get that hot in handheld no matter what game it is or how long its played. if its hitting 60 in handheld you really have some issues that need to be fixed. id call around 45 the peak for handheld temperature
Not the point I was trying to make but if that’s the point you want to make, sure.

I 100% agree with you:

“60C in handheld mode with no overclocking would be absurd.” -Binky

(I was not running bone stock in handheld mode but I’m quite certain I was well under the normal thermal limits of the Switch. At no time during any of my testing did I feel the heat was uncomfortable. I personally have no temp issues under any of the conditions I chose to run my Switch but I do appreciate your concern.)

Back to the point of helping this guy out:

Do you believe the initial requestor should be alarmed about his Switch hitting 47C and roasting his hands?

e: I was initially going to recommend the mittens because I thought just having the mobility of opposable thumbs would be enough for most games but after further review I’m thinking a BBQ glove with individually mobile digits could be in order. At under 1/2 the price it seems a no brainer. I could be way off base here. What are your thoughts?

C67BE87F-E031-456B-979E-19D326C243A2.jpeg
 
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deathblade200

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Not the point I was trying to make but if that’s the point you want to make, sure.

I 100% agree with you:

“60C in handheld mode with no overclocking would be absurd.” -Binky

(I was not running bone stock in handheld mode but I’m quite certain I was well under the normal thermal limits of the Switch. At no time during any of my testing did I feel the heat was uncomfortable. I personally have no temp issues under any of the conditions I chose to run my Switch but I do appreciate your concern.)

Back to the point of helping this guy out:

Do you believe the initial requestor should be alarmed about his Switch hitting 47C and roasting his hands?

e: I was initially going to recommend the mittens because I thought just having the mobility of opposable thumbs would be enough for most games but after further review I’m thinking a BBQ glove with individually mobile digits could be in order. At under 1/2 the price it seems a no brainer. I could be way off base here. What are your thoughts?

View attachment 322412
47 is not cause for alarm no many devices idle at that temp
 
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Rahkeesh

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My concern would be whether the IR shield temp and things it touches are being measured *at all.* I'm sure the APU is perfectly safe. Not clear what the skin or PCB readings are measuring exactly.

Like I mentioned, yes some thermal transfer between the heat pipe and IR shield is part of the design. The question is how much, the answer may not be "the more the merrier" unless you really like maxing your CPU maybe. People often report big changes in terms of CPU temps via repasting, I'm wondering if that is leaning on a significant increase in heat transfer to the IR shield than is stock.
 

binkinator

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My concern would be whether the IR shield temp and things it touches are being measured *at all.* I'm sure the APU is perfectly safe. Not clear what the skin or PCB readings are measuring exactly.

Like I mentioned, yes some thermal transfer between the heat pipe and IR shield is part of the design. The question is how much, the answer may not be "the more the merrier" unless you really like maxing your CPU maybe. People often report big changes in terms of CPU temps via repasting, I'm wondering if that is leaning on a significant increase in heat transfer to the IR shield than is stock.

The shield temp and back shell cover are certainly not being measured, but you could easily do so.

I invested in a thermometer with a thermocouple some time ago for testing things like this.

DB5EB906-8843-426C-A27B-20B3D4FB766D.jpeg

You could also buy one of these (I have one for my hvac but I don’t think I ordered it from Amazon) but it looks something like this:

D98C8ECB-D790-44BE-8E5C-4F8320EF7805.jpeg

Next time you buy thermal paste, throw one of these in your cart. They‘re pretty inexpensive.

There was significant thermal coupling via the pink crust when your switch rolled off the line.
Over time it degrades. You’ve likely restored it to darn near normal.
Even if you were to have used some sort of exotic diamond slurry the IR shield (aka heat shield) wouldn’t magically take on significantly more heat as a total.
Sure it might reach equilibrium a second or so sooner, but it’s not going to be the paste that regulates the final thermal properties of the entire system…only the rate of transfer between the two mediums.

bottom line: Your Switch is fine. Your hands are fine. We’re all going to be OK. Enjoy your Switch!
 
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Deobulakenyo

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i had my switch's thermal paste changed to MX-4 in 2019. The copper shim was removed but i did not remove the RAM shielding was not removed.

Playing Xenoblade Chronicles 3 in handheld mode, my SOC temp averages 44 to 48 degrees. Fan speed peaks at 26%

When i am playing handheld and connected to the charger, the SOC hits 50 degrees. Fan speed reaches 32%
 
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JoeRifle

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Thanks to all the folk providing information and on-hands experience to us readers. I used the given information to replace a faulty fan. My Switch overheated after about 30 minutes (depending on load). While I was at it, I also took a closer look at the cooling layout and performance. I found that:

TL:DR: Pads added on top of the heatpipe and the RAM cover. Paste for the SOC. Shim left alone. Pad sizes used were 1mm on top of the heatpipe towards the aluminium shield and 1.5mm on top of the cover over the RAM (both GELID 15w) - ensuring 100% contact but also resulting in a very tight fitting of the shell. But no actual denting though!

Detailed:

1. Factorywise, the Switch does not connect the RAM directly to the cooling cycle. But, judging from inspection, it may well be an indirect and very latent connection heating up that cover (silver shielding also holding the shim) over the SOC and RAM through natural convection. The heatpipe (and convection again) will then transfer some of that heat to the aluminium case shielding (the red paste is also important for this). The fan does most of the work though of course.

a) In order to facilitate this, I added some pads above the RAM (on top of the cover only, for it seems that direct contact may even be counterproductive by stressing the ram with excessive heat!)

b) I replaced the red paste (on top of the heatpipe) with a cooling pad also. In my opinion, pads are better suited in these two places overall. Makes it easier to service while not loosing any critical cooling performance.

--> I thus agree with all the people b4 me that strongly stress retaining the connection between the heatpipe to the aluminium skin (the red paste). This allows the Switch to stay silent a bit longer under low loads - which is quite ingenious actually. And it helps take away some of the heat under heavy loads - which is rather cosmetic though.

2. I left the shim. Reasoning being that its purpose is to ensure even contact. And there is also some white tape at its edges shielding some parts from making contact to the heatpipe. Yes, direct contact may be prefered here (using liquid metal if done safely!), but imo it is not worth the effort and additional risk.

a) I applied thermal paste to the die (ensuring total coverage) and to the contact plate of the heatpipe (which is by no means 100% uniform quality btw). Paste seems more suited to ensure that all little gaps are filled here.

Overall, the Switch is not meant for sustaining high performance loads without compromising fps. It can not cool itself adequately enough for that overall.

The switch essentially tries to sustain temperatures by "locking" the area around the SOC and PCB to 60° C. It does so by lowering the load on the chip (e.g. limiting to less fps). Meanwhile the skin actually absorbs some of that generated heat. In theory, this should also have a limit of 60°. But I have not tested that.

3. What I also did afterwards is to increase fan speed a step. I hope this helps with sustaining fps a little bit longer with those high load applications (e.g. BOTW).
 
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Alkafer

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Hi, I've been reading the thread since my 2017 switch is hitting some high temperatures playing Bayonetta 3 docked. Funny thing it is only PCB witch hits 67c degrees, CPU stays at 55+-. The fan is working full speed, the switch is in a mini-dock in a place with good air flow. My intention is to open it, clean the fan, remove the heatpipe and change only that thermal paste (the grey one under the heatpipe and the pink goo) I'm a beginner, I only changed some joycon joysticks before and I'm afraid of break something.
I'll be good doing this? I have some Arctic Silver Mx-4, it will be enough or I need pads? Thanks!
 
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Hayato213

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Hi, I've been reading the thread since my 2017 switch is hitting some high temperatures playing Bayonetta 3 docked. Funny thing it is only PCB witch hits 67c degrees, CPU stays at 55+-. The fan is working full speed, the switch is in a mini-docd in a place with good air flow. My intention is to open it, clean the fan, remove the heatpipe and change only that thermal paste (the grey one under the heatpipe and the pink goo) I'm a beginner, I only changed some joycon joysticks before and I'm afraid of break something.
I'll be good doing this? I have some Arctic Silver Mx-4, it will be enough or I need pads? Thanks!

You should be alright with MX-4
 

binkinator

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Hi, I've been reading the thread since my 2017 switch is hitting some high temperatures playing Bayonetta 3 docked. Funny thing it is only PCB witch hits 67c degrees, CPU stays at 55+-. The fan is working full speed, the switch is in a mini-docd in a place with good air flow. My intention is to open it, clean the fan, remove the heatpipe and change only that thermal paste (the grey one under the heatpipe and the pink goo) I'm a beginner, I only changed some joycon joysticks before and I'm afraid of break something.
I'll be good doing this? I have some Arctic Silver Mx-4, it will be enough or I need pads? Thanks!
As far as difficulty is concerned? Swapping paste out is IMO easier than opening those damn joycons.
 

Alkafer

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As far as difficulty is concerned? Swapping paste out is IMO easier than opening those damn joycons.
That's what I thought, I will try. But if you break something, it is more expensive...
You should be alright with MX-4
Thanks!

And anyone know what would be the reason why my PCB is heating way more than my CPU? Thanks!
 

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