Hi again! I just want to thank you both, yesterday I did it and wow! Now it keeps running between 58⁰-60⁰, 62⁰ is the highest I've seen (playing Bayonetta 3) and the fan does not launch full power anymore, it keeps in between 20-50%. I'm so happy.
Hardware Exchanging thermal paste?
- Thread starter Clydefrosch
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to me that's still running rather hot at least compared to my erista which hits 53C in Bayonetta 3 at 1785/921/1862 (maxed clocked for testing purposes only) and 100% fan keeps it at that temp. if it was me I'd prefer a higher fan speed over higher temps
the chips are designed to run up to 80c, 62 is plenty cool, and constantly running the fan at 100% will just wear out the fan faster
the temperatures mentioned are perfectly fine
the hardware from higher temperatures is going to get worn out long before the fan is. I've literally never had a device which the fan failed no matter how often it was used. higher temperatures will reduce the life span regardless if it was "designed" for it. using your argument fans are "designed" to run at 100%
Last edited by deathblade200,
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No. It will not help-- you need the framerate drops. They're not a bug, they're a feature. How else can you tell whether a game has been properly optimized for mobile gameplay??
Yes, fans are also designed to run at a certain max RPM, that doesn't mean you must use the max <xyz> of what it was designed for
all i'm saying is that the temperature is well within spec and running the fan at 100% is hardly worth it
so somebody clearly has never heard of the arrhenius equation which to put it simple means about every 10C you add you reduce a devices life by half. unlike the temperature limit the fan is actually meant to be fully used to avoid that limit and the lower the temperature the better. also just an fyi I never set this fan speed its just how my switch works and I'm not going to change it while most other Erista are in the 60-70 range
Last edited by deathblade200,
So many conflicting information here between people, I don't know why it's so hard to find a guide that most can agree on, its always a question of - use pads here or there, remove the metal shim / copper sticker or not, paste evenly vs cross/dot.
It's quite confusing tbf, as after changing my thermal paste I was not happy with the results. Once I OC'd, the temps were going too high in comparison to others, keep in mind, I bought the Switch from a kid that got it way back in 2017/8 so I had to change
the paste and see if I get better results.
In any case, I recently changed the paste AGAIN and while doing so, using the IPA on the metal shield removed the copper sticker, luckily I found out that people purposefully do so I just removed it and tried the spread method with the spatula ( I think I put too much tho).
When I compared temps, I was getting about 3c more which I was and still not happy about at all, for OC'ing, I want my Switch running as optimal as possible, I'm pretty much an optimizer whore, I love to make sure whatever it is I have is running to the utmost best (to the best of my knowledge and ability.)
Anyway, when I ran Mario Odyssey using ReverseNX, changing handheld to docked and then all the clocks to default dock speeds, my game would get hot even faster, when the fan would reach 83-85%, it would just stop working and the temps would start rising, this means I either fucked up my fan, or it was fucked before (since I never reached 100% up until this point).
Upon reading the ReverseNX thread, I see that other people are getting the same result in terms of fan speed going up to 100%, though theirs is working, anyway I ordered a fan.
Now seriously, can someone give me the best method to cool the Switch as Im going to open it up when I get the fan.
Thanks!!!
It's quite confusing tbf, as after changing my thermal paste I was not happy with the results. Once I OC'd, the temps were going too high in comparison to others, keep in mind, I bought the Switch from a kid that got it way back in 2017/8 so I had to change
the paste and see if I get better results.
In any case, I recently changed the paste AGAIN and while doing so, using the IPA on the metal shield removed the copper sticker, luckily I found out that people purposefully do so I just removed it and tried the spread method with the spatula ( I think I put too much tho).
When I compared temps, I was getting about 3c more which I was and still not happy about at all, for OC'ing, I want my Switch running as optimal as possible, I'm pretty much an optimizer whore, I love to make sure whatever it is I have is running to the utmost best (to the best of my knowledge and ability.)
Anyway, when I ran Mario Odyssey using ReverseNX, changing handheld to docked and then all the clocks to default dock speeds, my game would get hot even faster, when the fan would reach 83-85%, it would just stop working and the temps would start rising, this means I either fucked up my fan, or it was fucked before (since I never reached 100% up until this point).
Upon reading the ReverseNX thread, I see that other people are getting the same result in terms of fan speed going up to 100%, though theirs is working, anyway I ordered a fan.
Now seriously, can someone give me the best method to cool the Switch as Im going to open it up when I get the fan.
Thanks!!!
The spread method is just the most optimised way of doing it cause you never waste too much paste and you are 100% sure you had full coverage which is essential on any direct die-to-cooler contact...
The thing here is Switch cooling is badly engineered and therefore the mounting pressure is probably not very good without the copper shim but I still did it on mine and I'm happy...
But I went with a much more extreme cooling, I used some pads from a old GPU to the memories without the whole metal shield, added a small copper cooler on top of the Switch cooler, I put an EXTREME amount of thermal paste all over the copper pipe to make contact with the backplate and cut the backplate to accommodate the small copper cooler...
I can't say anything about temps cause I never tested that, most likely the temps will be very similar as before but the difference is the fan barely works however I only tested portable.
The thing here is Switch cooling is badly engineered and therefore the mounting pressure is probably not very good without the copper shim but I still did it on mine and I'm happy...
But I went with a much more extreme cooling, I used some pads from a old GPU to the memories without the whole metal shield, added a small copper cooler on top of the Switch cooler, I put an EXTREME amount of thermal paste all over the copper pipe to make contact with the backplate and cut the backplate to accommodate the small copper cooler...
I can't say anything about temps cause I never tested that, most likely the temps will be very similar as before but the difference is the fan barely works however I only tested portable.
This^^
The “gains” aren’t going to be like you water cooled a high performance PC. It’s just to make sure the adequate Switch cooling system continues to be…well…adequate.
Technique, brand name paste, bending the heat pipe frame, removing (or leaving in) the copper foil, 10% faster “turbo” fans (like I have). None of that is going to make a huge difference in the temps unless you’re repairing a broken cooling system, in which case you’ll be returning it back to an adequate cooling state.
So, this is not Monster Garage, you’re not Xzibit, we’re not Street Outlaws:
1) repair that crusty pink goop while you’re in there doing other mods is a good idea.
2) Check your before and after temps to make sure you didn’t screw anything up and it’s still within operating temp.
3) selectively over clock on the games that need it and even then only do enough to “fix” the issue you’re seeing.
4) enjoy your Switch for what it is, a moderately powered handheld console with a tablet chip.
May your paste stay sticky, may your fan stay below 100% and may your temps stay below 80 degrees.
Be cool ya’ll.
The “gains” aren’t going to be like you water cooled a high performance PC. It’s just to make sure the adequate Switch cooling system continues to be…well…adequate.
Technique, brand name paste, bending the heat pipe frame, removing (or leaving in) the copper foil, 10% faster “turbo” fans (like I have). None of that is going to make a huge difference in the temps unless you’re repairing a broken cooling system, in which case you’ll be returning it back to an adequate cooling state.
So, this is not Monster Garage, you’re not Xzibit, we’re not Street Outlaws:
1) repair that crusty pink goop while you’re in there doing other mods is a good idea.
2) Check your before and after temps to make sure you didn’t screw anything up and it’s still within operating temp.
3) selectively over clock on the games that need it and even then only do enough to “fix” the issue you’re seeing.
4) enjoy your Switch for what it is, a moderately powered handheld console with a tablet chip.
May your paste stay sticky, may your fan stay below 100% and may your temps stay below 80 degrees.
Be cool ya’ll.
Thanks, I ordered a fan, once that comes, I'll redo the paste and leave it as it is.
Yep, i just repaste it and discovered that stock one has some white isolation tape under the CPU shield in my case glued in the middle of the chip #fail
but on stock, i get around max 60C cpu in botw dock after an 1h. On the first repaste, I was adding some solutions to ram and get the same or 2c worse resoults after remaking it and removing that additional ram cooling iam around max 59C in the same scenario, so even a tape on the chip itself don't mess it up too much as long as the paste is not hard and dry .(all temps max on 40-45% fan and i was repasting it as a bonus of fixing joy rails and changing backshell. For repaste, i used ARCTIC Silver Ceramique 2 because this is my fav paste and if it can handle graphics cards and old 2k i7 oc soc i think its good enough :X )
Last edited by Lamcza,
I received the fan that I ordered and I'm really at the end point of any upgrade/work on my Switch ,its been fun while I had the chance to learn how to do certain things which I've never done before, never have I opened any electronic device and changed the screen or even thermal paste.
TBH, I think I've spent more time on maintaining and customizing the Switch than actually playing on it which I really loved!
Though now its time to start getting more into the gaming side, Is there a video that you or @anyone that can refer me in regards to thermal pasting for the last time, since I'm changing my fan, I'd like to do it and get it done correctly without having to open it up again.
just spread it thin under the cpu shiled (1-1,5mm max) and over it and go wild under the metal backplate
Wear rubber gloves or some antistatic mate and band plus ofc unplug the battery as frits step to do.
Last edited by Lamcza,
Next you should buy a 3D Printer!
(You spend 3 months furiously printing out mods for your new printer and the next month or two looking for things to print and then You come to the realization that it’s still a pain in the ass to print things and probably just easier to buy from whatever widget you were going to print…from someone else.)
Not sure there’s a video specific to a “right way for Switch.”
My general rule is if your paste is oozing out from under the heat sink you put too much.
For the back of the heat pipe I put thermal pads because I open mine all the time and don’t want to futz with paste. I bought a mix of various sizes and kept increasing the thickness until I could just feel it under the aluminum when I went to screw the plate back on.
Then I cut a huge hole in the middle of the aluminum so my Trinket M0 would fit.
So far so good.
Did you remove the copper sticker on the SOC? I removed mine and so far my temps are higher, maybe I did a bad job at spreading it, the first pasting job had lower temps with the sticker ON. IDK if I should put it back on and just paste it by making na X or something like that,just spread it thin under the cpu shiled (1-1,5mm max) and over it and go wild under the metal backplate
Wear rubber gloves or some antistatic mate and band plus ofc unplug the battery as frits step to do.
Meaning the way most do it to achieve normal temps and not to go overboard, I thought maybe I'd paste it really good and mod it so that I can OC it safely but I just gave up on it, its simply not worth it as the Erista isn't optimized for that, had I had the Mariko version, I'd be O'Cing for sure.
In theory to achieve the maximum thermal conducting, in addition to the material that conducts heat, CPU and heatsink have to be close as much as possible. However there are still small holes between CPU and heatsink so thermal paste plays the role of filling those holes. Because you removed the copper sticker, it created a gap between CPU and heatsink that made the distance between them is longer, so thermal conducting reduced. You also don't have to put too much thermal paste because it will increase distance between CPU and heatsink.
No, i just clean it then put it back together as it was. What temps do you get now? After the first repaste, you can see if you do a good job or not, too much paste is not optimal but better than too little.
You can do some oc in the handheld mode for sure in the dock perhaps too but in some open dock maybe?
Maybe you might need to bend the cooler slightly, it's probably not making good contact since Nvidia and Nintendo screwed the cooling by going with the crap thermal copper sheet instead of making it with proper height for a direct die-to-cooler contact, unless it has something to do with falling damage, maybe that way it further prevents cracking the die on high impacts, no idea, for me is just dumb...
I wish someone would test the mounting pressure on switch without the copper sheet like GamerNexus does on PC GPU's with a paper like material that changes color when pressed to properly show contact between the 2 surfaces.
My Switch seem to be doing fine though, but I also have high pressure on top of the cooler since I have small full copper memory cooler with thermal paste on top of the cooler (and cut the metal backplate) and then the back of Switch plastic case makes them tight and keep making pressure directly above the cooler right on the SOC.
The default mounting pressure is quite weak which is why i slightly bent the mounting points. I would also recommend pressing down on the cooler and rotating slightly to spread the paste. I did remove the copper sheet. Unfortunately i did that long before modding it so don't have before and after temps. But it's completely within spec temperature wise.
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TwoSpikedHands:
yall im torn... ive been hacking away at tales of phantasia GBA (the USA version) and have so many documents of reverse engineering i've done -
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TwoSpikedHands:
I just found out that the EU version is better in literally every way, better sound quality, better lighting, and there's even a patch someone made to make the text look nicer
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TwoSpikedHands:
Do I restart now using what i've learned on the EU version since it's a better overall experience? or do I continue with the US version since that is what ive been using, and if someone decides to play my hack, it would most likely be that version?
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Sicklyboy:
@TwoSpikedHands, I'll preface this with the fact that I know nothing about the game, but, I think it depends on what your goals are. Are you trying to make a definitive version of the game? You may want to refocus your efforts on the EU version then. Or, are you trying to make a better US version? In which case, the only way to make a better US version is to keep on plugging away at that one -
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Sicklyboy:
I'm not familiar with the technicalities of the differences between the two versions, but I'm wondering if at least some of those differences are things that you could port over to the US version in your patch without having to include copyrighted assets from the EU version
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TwoSpikedHands:
@Sicklyboy I am wanting to fully change the game and bend it to my will lol. I would like to eventually have the ability to add more characters, enemies, even have a completely different story if i wanted. I already have the ability to change the tilemaps in the US version, so I can basically make my own map and warp to it in game - so I'm pretty far into it!
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TwoSpikedHands:
I really would like to make a hack that I would enjoy playing, and maybe other people would too. swapping to the EU version would also mean my US friends could not legally play it
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TwoSpikedHands:
I am definitely considering porting over some of the EU features without using the actual ROM itself, tbh that would probably be the best way to go about it... but i'm sad that the voice acting is so.... not good on the US version. May not be a way around that though
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The Real Jdbye:
@TwoSpikedHands just switch, all the knowledge you learned still applies and most of the code and assets should be the same anyway -
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The Real Jdbye:
and realistically they wouldn't
be able to play it legally anyway since they need a ROM and they probably don't have the means to dump it themselves -
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Karma177:
do y'all think having an sd card that has a write speed of 700kb/s is a bad idea?
trying to restore emunand rn but it's taking ages... (also when I finished the first time hekate decided to delete all my fucking files
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Karma177:
@The Real Jdbye it hasn't given me any error trying to write things on it so I don't really think it's faulty (pasted 40/50gb+ folders and no write errors)
