Hacking Sx Core and Sx Lite , test Units Received

semzorro

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yeah playing games and homebrew works fine,nx themes works fine for what i used , tesla loaded sys info overlay module.
games loaded fine, copied saves etc

Dont delete serial in tinfoil or emunand wont boot
What else we can do now ? As I know atmosphere and other things do not work....
 

izy

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Would you consider SX Lite? Or know anyone that does them?
not gonna lie the switch lite doesnt look hard to solder compared to the v2 mariko, its just extra solder points on board that are way easier to solder than the cpu smds literally just pads.
if was installing I would do the lite also as the difference is minimal

My current solder is 60/40 rosin but looks cold for some reason no matter what I try it's a solid connection tho heres an example.
Looks a little unclean cause I've been practicing alot on this pad but otherwise its perfect contacts
20200621_203148.jpg

Its defo my solder though as my other solder is coming up shiny even on lower temps.

What else we can do now ? As I know atmosphere and other things do not work....

Atmosphere and payloads dont work due to needing updates. Ppsspp didnt work for me but could be my rom.

Tesla and overlays and sysmodukes worked for me fine.
Homebrew and installing nsps worked. Tinfoil works
Installing a theme with nx installer worked
 
Last edited by izy,

ChronoTrig

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Dont delete serial in tinfoil or emunand wont boot

What about incognito? Can that be used to remove serial if on V1 Patched Switch?

Atmosphere and payloads dont work due to needing updates. Ppsspp didnt work for me but could be my rom.

Can Atmosphere work with V1 Patched Switches?

Thanks.
 
Last edited by ChronoTrig,

aymlam

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not gonna lie the switch lite doesnt look hard to solder compared to the v2 mariko, its just extra solder points on board that are way easier to solder than the cpu smds literally just pads.
if was installing I would do the lite also as the difference
I see, thanks for the info.
 

Astur_torque

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not gonna lie the switch lite doesnt look hard to solder compared to the v2 mariko, its just extra solder points on board that are way easier to solder than the cpu smds literally just pads.
if was installing I would do the lite also as the difference is minimal

My current solder is 60/40 rosin but looks cold for some reason no matter what I try it's a solid connection tho heres an example.
Looks a little unclean cause I've been practicing alot on this pad but otherwise its perfect contacts
View attachment 214333

Its defo my solder though as my other solder is coming up shiny even on lower temps.



Atmosphere and payloads dont work due to needing updates. Ppsspp didnt work for me but could be my rom.

Tesla and overlays and sysmodukes worked for me fine.
Homebrew and installing nsps worked. Tinfoil works
Installing a theme with nx installer worked

I'm not familiarize with this terms, sorry

First time with "suich" patched
 

caldeio

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Switched retailers, reason, big delay plus more money.
Ali Shipped, should be here by the estimated 7/06

I'm watching stocks for Mariko. If I can get one, I'll sell my v1 patched. Really would like the almost double battery life
 
Last edited by caldeio,

Juniper

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Do you guys think it would be ok to break apart the backplate? I’ve managed to remove only some of the screws. I can already half-open the backplate so im wondering if i could just tear it off when some of the screws are still in place:

the centre screw on both joycon rails
Bottom right tri wing
2 screws adjacent to the charger

halp
 

Patison

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still not got money from xecuter-sx. sent 4 emails without reply and received no confirmation that I will be refunded. I've never had to do chargeback at the bank before. anyone who did this and managed to get money back?

Same here, still no refund. I've already contacted my bank but they are taking their time :(
 

The8Darkness

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Fun fact: if you dont connect the solder points and just put on the chip you get a red light and the console just boots into ofw as usual.

Had a buddy prepare his switch before coming to me for soldering and he apparently was curios what would happen.
 

izy

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Do you guys think it would be ok to break apart the backplate? I’ve managed to remove only some of the screws. I can already half-open the backplate so im wondering if i could just tear it off when some of the screws are still in place:

the centre screw on both joycon rails
Bottom right tri wing
2 screws adjacent to the charger

halp
you could try soldering your small screwdriver to the rail scres and centre because if your rip off your backplate the that spread of plastic its gonna be harder to remove the bits
 

S_Sustain

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Do you guys think it would be ok to break apart the backplate? I’ve managed to remove only some of the screws. I can already half-open the backplate so im wondering if i could just tear it off when some of the screws are still in place:

the centre screw on both joycon rails
Bottom right tri wing
2 screws adjacent to the charger

halp
Have you considered trying an 'easy out/screw extractor? There's a 1.3mm one in a kit on Amazon, but you might be able to buy them separately.
 
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