They are really good I have a big solder station but whenever I am on the go it's one of the best solder ironsHas anyone had experience with the TX80 and TX 100 irons and what they think about them ? Worth it or just hype
They are really good I have a big solder station but whenever I am on the go it's one of the best solder ironsHas anyone had experience with the TX80 and TX 100 irons and what they think about them ? Worth it or just hype
Thanks for the Recs!Personally im a Kingbo Flux guy - After years of reballing Kingbo is 100% the best flux for these types of jobs. Amtech flux was close with 2nd.
I love Hakko Solder guns - Currently using FX-951
After i desolder it the flex got broken , so i cant use them again .i don't think the silver wire glue will have any resistence problems, you might have it with the carbon based ones though
so how would you go about removing the wire glue though?
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maybe you should give the silver based wire glue a go then ?
did you manage to clean it up real good, did you use solder braid, how did you get the excess solder off , was it hard?
After i desolder it the flex got broken , so i cant use them again .
Has someone get money back from xecuter-sx yet?
They dont answer mail..
I mean there are some people who at least have some knowledge, but its kind of a joke when people get it who are like "well I soldered once in my life and I have this 5$ walmart iron and some leftover solder"Did anyone with actual soldering skills or electrical knowledge actually fucking get one of these? I didn't even bother asking because I figured it was only for "top streamers" to circle-jerk more views, but someone must have gotten some ffs?
If I ever get my hands on a lite or core I'll post full microscoped installation images etc. Being in Canada all the distributors were based in the US for me and they all took a shit so hopefully there's a Chinese order alternative.
The ones I saw were probably carbon based, where you get like a whole box for 10 bucks. The silver ones are like 10 bucks for a syringe with a few drops in it. And - personally I didnt have any experience with it - but as far as I have seen from others using it, simply applying it, testing if it works and removing it before it dries is quite easy. Like for some it came of in one blob like playdooh.i don't think the silver wire glue will have any resistence problems, you might have it with the carbon based ones though
so how would you go about removing the wire glue though?
I mean there are some people who at least have some knowledge, but its kind of a joke when people get it who are like "well I soldered once in my life and I have this 5$ walmart iron and some leftover solder"
(Just kind of mad when you know you would have been way more qualified but get the "were sure youre very qualified but not looking for you" reply)
The ones I saw were probably carbon based, where you get like a whole box for 10 bucks. The silver ones are like 10 bucks for a syringe with a few drops in it. And - personally I didnt have any experience with it - but as far as I have seen from others using it, simply applying it, testing if it works and removing it before it dries is quite easy. Like for some it came of in one blob like playdooh.
can smb recommend me right tools to install this chip?
Good flux and soldering iron (I recommend JBC brand, there are high quality ones) and good tin
I asked this earlier, but I'm reposting for visibility (plus, I don't want to go back through the last 4-6 pages to quote my post):
Any installers in the Indianapolis, IN, USA area? I don't want to pay for shipping, so I'm looking locally.
Just send them in to me for install if your USA based guys.
Just send them in to me for install if your USA based guys.
As for a changelog, this version's purpose is to support Mariko and the modchip ecosystem, so there are no new features.
Aside from removing all KIPs except for Loader, most of the changes are DRM related.
Bootloader has new code to interact with and update the modchip.
Patchers now include full copies of each Mariko package1 encrypted with a T210B01/T214 specific key.
All applications have been updated and rebuilt to match current AMS and libnx.
On the very first boot the bootloader will attempt to update the modchip from version 1.0 to 1.1. Update firmware is stored encrypted inside the bootloader and is likely meant to patch a handful of vulnerabilities and broken code already identified.
The modchip itself flashes a custom BCT and bootloader to the boot0 partition on the eMMC. These are stored encrypted with the Mariko BEK (Boot Encryption Key) and signed with TX's own key. Once the glitch succeeds, TX's bootloader will run instead of Nintendo's.
The initial stages focus mostly on DRM and clear out all keyslots (except keyslot number 6) that were filled by the bootrom as a way to block any other third party from obtaining Mariko keys using the modchip. This is, however, ineffective.
...
It's not a new exploit per se, in fact it's the exact same technique used to achieve code execution on the original units: glitch the PKC hash check.
This was made more difficult with Mariko but the modchip is capable of self-adapting the timings.
Also, getting a cheap USB microscope ( like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000X-8-LE...scope-Endoscope-Camera-Magnifier/113523681678 ) is great help if you'll do small parts soldering. There's quite a lot to choose from and start cheap enough, look around for specs as most look the same but have various insides with better or worse features. Hook it up to a PC and use the monitor for display. Picture quality might not be the greatest but it sure beats struggling with magnifying glasses.