Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Wish I had a facility to make the boards.

My days of getting covered in ferric chloride are over!
 

Modificatorul

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No need for ferric chloride, pcb way printed the pcb , i just wanted to show off the result :)
If you want 1 pcs asembled, or empty pcb +parts to have some fun , i can send for free as a sign of apreciation for all the hard work you did. with uf2 files and documenting some switch parts.
https://github.com/Aboshi/SwitchME/tree/master/PCB-Final


and someone made banana edition :)

 
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mattytrog

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No need for ferric chloride, pcb way printed the pcb , i just wanted to show off the result :)
If you want 1 pcs asembled, or empty pcb +parts to have some fun , i can send for free as a sign of apreciation for all the hard work you did. with uf2 files and documenting some switch parts.
https://github.com/Aboshi/SwitchME/tree/master/PCB-Final


and someone made banana edition :)

https://twitter.com/jiiiiV/status/1088530668093665280
Sounds like fun! I've got literally a stock of bare E18s here. Send us a PayPal request and I'll buy one. Don't need the samd. Just board and maybe the passives. Wouldn't mind a play. Send us a PM. Very good work sir.
 

slslasher

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That is why I hate the idea of soldering to the emmc.

Those BTB connectors are bloody fragile. But yes. If something is mis-soldered, pad lifted, damaged BTB connector, it is absolutely possible to brick

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Good. Crystalless E18 again... Like it. Like it alot!

I`m assuming all pads are the same as the blue one.

EDIT: The original was an E18. Thought it was a G for a minute. Then remembered thats the RCMX86.
I am still able to backup my raw nand and boot0/1. If I buy a spare emmc, possible to just flash the backup to the spare emmc n revive the switch?
 

mattytrog

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I am still able to backup my raw nand and boot0/1. If I buy a spare emmc, possible to just flash the backup to the spare emmc n revive the switch?
If you are still able to access emmc, then the problem isn`t in the BTB connector.

Can you please clarify... Are you attempting to boot ofw or cfw?
 
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slslasher

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If you are still able to access emmc, then the problem isn`t in the BTB connector.

Can you please clarify... Are you attempting to boot ofw or cfw?
I am trying to boot into ofw, it will just display a black screen. When I try to boot sx os it will hang at the SX OS logo. Firmware is 6.2.
 

mattytrog

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I am trying to boot into ofw, it will just display a black screen. When I try to boot sx os it will hang at the SX OS logo. Firmware is 6.2.
Hmmm...

Can you try to boot with hekate and tell me what it says?

Also, are there any pictures of ypur board as it is now?
 

slslasher

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Hmmm...

Can you try to boot with hekate and tell me what it says?

Also, are there any pictures of ypur board as it is now?
https://imgur.com/a/o3JHRQ9

I have uploaded the image. On the switch itself I only soldered to the data points, the emmc pad and the right joycon rail. I have already removed all and it doesn't boot up.
I can boot into hekate, the normal boot menu where you can see launch, options, etc.

I tried using the same trinket in another switch and it works. I am quite sure it have something to do with the emmc board. I hardmodded more 100 switch and this only happens when I tried on emmc board. I thought emmc board is safer but cap is still safer now.
 

slslasher

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https://imgur.com/a/o3JHRQ9

I have uploaded the image. On the switch itself I only soldered to the data points, the emmc pad and the right joycon rail. I have already removed all and it doesn't boot up.
I can boot into hekate, the normal boot menu where you can see launch, options, etc.

I tried using the same trinket in another switch and it works. I am quite sure it have something to do with the emmc board. I hardmodded more 100 switch and this only happens when I tried on emmc board. I thought emmc board is safer but cap is still safer now.
Another update, solder to the cap with the trinket m0 that bricked the 1st switch to another brand new switch, bricked the brand new switch. Possible for trinket m0 to brick switches?
 

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I'm having a weird situation with the trinket m0. I didn't like having to squeeze the case to hit reset, so I removed the reset button and ran a wire from the reset pad to the screw inside the kickstand. Now I can reset with anything metal to ground the screw to the shield when the kickstand is open.

It all worked perfectly, and I felt very clever. Now it seems the long reset wire is behaving oddly. Sometimes while handling the switch the chip will reset, and the volume of course shoots up to max. I have verified that I'm not shorting the wire by squeezing the case. For a test I disconnected the wire from the screw and wrapped the bare end in kapton tape. Handling the switch will still occasionally trigger reset. Something capacitive going on?

Any ideas to prevent this? I can remove the wire, but I'd hate to have to open the case every time I need to reset the chip (although the number of times I have had to manually reset the chip has been exactly 0). I could put a pull up resistor on the reset pad, but if the trinket designers had wanted that there would already be one.

Other than that, it all works perfectly. I'm very happy with how it turned out. Thank you for all your hard work.

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Okay, weird update. It just started doing it repeatedly, vol+ all the time. I rebooted the switch and it came up in ofw. I figured the reset was stuck on, but I rebooted again with vol+ held down and it came up in cfw like normal. I'm guessing this means my volume strap has come loose. Perhaps it was never a reset problem? It never indicated joy con disconnect during any of the volume up incidents. Are there other interpretations ?

The volume up problem seems to have stopped entirely, along with any vol+ from the trinket.

Could that pin on the trinket have gone bad? Man I really don't want to take this all apart again...
 
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mattytrog

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Okay, weird update. It just started doing it repeatedly, vol+ all the time. I rebooted the switch and it came up in ofw. I figured the reset was stuck on, but I rebooted again with vol+ held down and it came up in cfw like normal. I'm guessing this means my volume strap has come loose. Perhaps it was never a reset problem? It never indicated joy con disconnect during any of the volume up incidents. Are there other interpretations ?

The volume up problem seems to have stopped entirely, along with any vol+ from the trinket.

Could that pin on the trinket have gone bad? Man I really don't want to take this all apart again...
Looks like you have a dry vol+ solder joint Dan.

Or more likely, the resistor is playing up (maybe damaged?)

Did you secure your wires well? Not too long are they?

Post a pic then we can help with some advice?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Another update, solder to the cap with the trinket m0 that bricked the 1st switch to another brand new switch, bricked the brand new switch. Possible for trinket m0 to brick switches?
Post a pic of your board.

The trinket cannot brick a switch. You could have a shorted LDO regulator on the Trinket. This would send 3v to GND.

Post some pics mate.
 

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Looks like you have a dry vol+ solder joint Dan.

Or more likely, the resistor is playing up (maybe damaged?)

Did you secure your wires well? Not too long are they?

Post a pic then we can help with some advice?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Post a pic of your board.

The trinket cannot brick a switch. You could have a shorted LDO regulator on the Trinket. This would send 3v to GND.

Post some pics mate.
Heres the picture, i have already removed all the solder and cleaned it up. Still doesn't boot up.

https://imgur.com/a/p8EK3lT
 

mattytrog

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Heres the picture, i have already removed all the solder and cleaned it up. Still doesn't boot up.

https://imgur.com/a/p8EK3lT
Can you check the two capacitors next to m92t36? Should both be at 3v. One of them may go up to 6v when usb plugged in.

Do you have any RCM at all?

Has the board been out of the console?
 

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Looks like you have a dry vol+ solder joint Dan.

Or more likely, the resistor is playing up (maybe damaged?)

Did you secure your wires well? Not too long are they?

Post a pic then we can help with some advice?

I'm hoping the resistor isn't damaged. My other switch done the same way has the same original problem although much less frequently.

On the switch I originally posted about the trinket no longer controls the volume at all, but the volume buttons work normally.

My wires are pretty long, I went for an over the shield installation. All the wires are taped down with kapton tape.

20190115_144241.jpg 20190115_133809.jpg 20190115_133858.jpg 20190115_144252.jpg

Those are pictures from the original assembly. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what it looks like now.

For some reasonI didn't take a picture of the whole layout on this (the second switch I did) I took video of the process on the first switch, which has a similar layout if you want to see it. The volume strap runs above the ram, below the fan to join the others where they exit the shield.
 
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mattytrog

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I'm hoping the resistor isn't damaged. My other switch done the same way has the same original problem although much less frequently.

On the switch I originally posted about the trinket no longer controls the volume at all, but the volume buttons work normally.

My wires are pretty long, I went for an over the shield installation. All the wires are taped down with kapton tape.

View attachment 156945 View attachment 156946 View attachment 156947 View attachment 156948

Those are pictures from the original assembly. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what it looks like now.

For some reasonI didn't take a picture of the whole layout on this (the second switch I did) I took video of the process on the first switch, which has a similar layout if you want to see it. The volume strap runs above the ram, below the fan to join the others where they exit the shield.
If the resistor is damaged, you can safely bridge it or replace with any value up to 150R

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Both is around 3.2v. Never been removed, no RCM.
What firmware are you on? Can you send a payload?

If not, then RCM is disabled, and console is detecting a fuse mismatch is my guess...

How I do this is to remove back of console, unclip battery and disconnect USB (which you probably have done)... Unclip emmc. Then plug battery back in & usb in. Should give you RCM. Or use a jig and hold vol+ (instead of unclipping NAND) then plug battery in.

DONT send a payload yet, plug emmc back in... THEN send Hekate or whatever to sort your boot0/1 out.
 
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Hi, My Trinket is blinking GREEN and RED the whole time. even when i boot normaly.
Drive show up as Switchboot.

What have i misses?
 
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Hi, My Trinket is blinking GREEN and RED the whole time. even when i boot normaly.
Drive show up as Switchboot.

What have i misses?
Have you tried a hard power-off? What happens then? Hold pwr for 12 seconds or more
 
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taxco

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Have you tried a hard power-off? What happens then? Hold pwr for 12 seconds or more
oo, thank you its oke now. it realy needed this 12sec . normal off did not do the job.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Have you tried a hard power-off? What happens then? Hold pwr for 12 seconds or more
have you seen my private messages to you?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Have you tried a hard power-off? What happens then? Hold pwr for 12 seconds or more
a nother thing, is it now posible to have permanent CFW with only joycon strap and without auto rcm?
 

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