Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

LuigiGad · Sunday at 7:32 PM

joaoneves said:
I made the modification on the OLED switch, and after soldering all the points and making the connections with the chip, everything worked very well; the 'No SD card' screen appeared repeatedly. My problem started after I began reassembling the Nintendo. After placing the copper heatsink and tightening it with screws, the switch only booted into the original system. The chip showed a blue light, a long yellow light, and a short yellow light.

I removed the heatsink, and it worked a few times on the modified system, but other times it booted into the original system. I re-soldered some points to shorten the wires, but nothing changed; now it continues to show the long yellow light and the short yellow light.

Clk 0.862
CMD 0.632
Dat0 1.743
3.3 0.866
RST 1.538

dat0 error To measure the real value of DAT0 you have to unsolder the cable from the chip

joaoneves · Sunday at 11:59 PM

LuigiGad said:
dat0 error To measure the real value of DAT0 you have to unsolder the cable from the chip

I thought the readings were high because the dat0 cable was connected to the chip. I removed the dat0 cable from the chip and got the correct value of 0.862. After confirming everything was correct, I re-soldered it, and it started working again multiple times; I did at least 10 boots that entered Hekate.

I decided it was time to close the Nintendo. After putting on the heatsink, I booted it up and everything was fine. I reattached the shielding, tightened all the screws, and booted it up, and it entered Hekate. BUT on the second attempt, it went back to the original system with the same error code: 'long yellow, short yellow'.

Tomorrow I will redo the soldering of this point again, but it’s very strange. Could it be the chip? Since all the readings seem to be good and the soldering looks fine.

Post automatically merged: Yesterday at 12:04 AM

bvang913 said:
That's the error code for Dat0. Also, your reading looks a bit high. Double check the connections for that.

The reading was measured directly from the modchip of dat0, but to be sure, I removed the dat0 and measured only on the cable, and the reading was 0.862. I re-soldered it, and it started entering Hekate again for about 10 times in a row. I decided to close it up, put on the heatsink, the shielding, and all the screws. I tested it again, and it entered Hekate. BUT on the second time, it returned with the same error of dat0 not connected and booted into the original system.

abal1000x · 2024-11-04T02:59:15+0000

joaoneves said:
I thought the readings were high because the dat0 cable was connected to the chip. I removed the dat0 cable from the chip and got the correct value of 0.862. After confirming everything was correct, I re-soldered it, and it started working again multiple times; I did at least 10 boots that entered Hekate.

I decided it was time to close the Nintendo. After putting on the heatsink, I booted it up and everything was fine. I reattached the shielding, tightened all the screws, and booted it up, and it entered Hekate. BUT on the second attempt, it went back to the original system with the same error code: 'long yellow, short yellow'.

Tomorrow I will redo the soldering of this point again, but it’s very strange. Could it be the chip? Since all the readings seem to be good and the soldering looks fine.

Post automatically merged: Yesterday at 12:04 AM

The reading was measured directly from the modchip of dat0, but to be sure, I removed the dat0 and measured only on the cable, and the reading was 0.862. I re-soldered it, and it started entering Hekate again for about 10 times in a row. I decided to close it up, put on the heatsink, the shielding, and all the screws. I tested it again, and it entered Hekate. BUT on the second time, it returned with the same error of dat0 not connected and booted into the original system.

Its famous problem for Dat0 flex, as we're all usually meet with that problem, maybe 1 weeks, or 1 month, or 3 month.

But someone here said he already installed like 3000 of that flex, without a single problem. So who knows, maybe our skill are not good enough

.

malgamer · 2024-11-04T03:04:53+0000

mviper28 · 2024-11-04T04:01:06+0000

roice2000 said:
Hi ,
Where can i find the latest Firmware for the picofly?
Is 2,74 the latest Version?

https://github.com/rehius/usk/releases

CarlosCruz · 2024-11-04T05:14:10+0000

Oled worked on one side.
@psycho-neon

twins333 · 2024-11-04T05:32:00+0000

CarlosCruz said:
Oled worked on one side.
@psycho-neon

looks great. did you use a ribbon for the mosfets? also, dat0 how?

abal1000x · 2024-11-04T05:34:32+0000

CarlosCruz said:
Oled worked on one side.
@psycho-neon

Master of Drilling :rofl2:

joaoneves · 2024-11-04T10:46:31+0000

Montei o switch inteiro e coloquei o invólucro externo. Eu também verifiquei essa parte USB na parte inferior da placa.

A questão é: seria melhor desmontar o interruptor e colocá-lo no lugar, ou o interruptor ficará bem sem isso?

Essa blindagem protege o USB de curto-circuito ou algo assim, ou é apenas para interferência?

Myst0gan · 2024-11-04T17:28:16+0000

Does anyone know if picofly works also with Japanese or Chinese version of switch?? I am guessing yes, just want to be sure if anyone has already tried and succeeded in it??

bvang913 · 2024-11-04T17:41:53+0000

Myst0gan said:
Does anyone know if picofly works also with Japanese or Chinese version of switch?? I am guessing yes, just want to be sure if anyone has already tried and succeeded in it??

Yes it does. I've modded a Japanese OLED before.

jkyoho · 2024-11-04T17:49:23+0000

bvang913 said:
Yes it does. I've modded a Japanese OLED before.

same, no difference on hardware just the difference on region firmware loaded

LuigiGad · 2024-11-04T18:29:04+0000

Myst0gan said:
Does anyone know if picofly works also with Japanese or Chinese version of switch?? I am guessing yes, just want to be sure if anyone has already tried and succeeded in it??

I just modded a jap one, the only difference is that I have to use the adapter on the charger socket

joaoneves · 2024-11-04T20:08:02+0000

What is the minimum size required for the creation to back up the NAND of the OLED model?

Can I do it with less than the original capacity of 59GB? I'm asking because on the Switch v1, v2, and Lite, I used the minimum size of 12GB, which corresponds to the size that the original system occupies.

Myst0gan · 2024-11-05T10:20:51+0000

joaoneves said:
What is the minimum size required for the creation to back up the NAND of the OLED model?

Can I do it with less than the original capacity of 59GB? I'm asking because on the Switch v1, v2, and Lite, I used the minimum size of 12GB, which corresponds to the size that the original system occupies.

You can try, tbh I've never tried with less than 64 gb

CarlosCruz · 2024-11-05T14:03:09+0000

twins333 said:
looks great. did you use a ribbon for the mosfets? also, dat0 how?

Thanks

Danook28 · 2024-11-05T14:23:16+0000

If the point C and A reading value red on point black on gnd

A 712V
C 732v
Normal????

jkyoho · 2024-11-05T15:04:02+0000

joaoneves said:
What is the minimum size required for the creation to back up the NAND of the OLED model?

Can I do it with less than the original capacity of 59GB? I'm asking because on the Switch v1, v2, and Lite, I used the minimum size of 12GB, which corresponds to the size that the original system occupies.

Backup entire gpp emmc 26/52GB is no longer mandatory since emmchacgen can rebuild the most of them.
All you need is individual prod.key and the prodinfo partition, which can be extract/backup from NxNandManager

Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Active Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads

Popular threads in this forum