Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

detilmalala

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What u mean with hot air is to big? Are u talking about a hot air gun? Ifso don't use it.

Well on the picture they both seem to have 3v but on different lines , so remove the solder bridge
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What u mean doesn't start ATM?(I know ur talking about atmosphere)
Does it start hekate?

If it doesn't ofw or hekate then u have a soldering issue.

Its all the same v1/v2
hekate starts fine, but after choosing ofw or cfw there is an error, removing the chip the console turns on normally, the firmware of the chip is 2.74
 

Dee87

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hekate starts fine, but after choosing ofw or cfw there is an error, removing the chip the console turns on normally, the firmware of the chip is 2.74
well u need to create a emuemmc but that not discussed in this thread google switchhacking is easy..

and i u dont say what error there is no one can help u .
 

detilmalala

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well u need to create a emuemmc but that not discussed in this thread google switchhacking is easy..

and i u dont say what error there is no one can help u .
I know how to create emummc, I have placed 50 chips, but this v1 does not start with the chip placed and volume +-, the ninten logo appears... and a black screen. If I remove the 3.3 and the ground of the chip, it turns on normally
 

deeps

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I know how to create emummc, I have placed 50 chips, but this v1 does not start with the chip placed and volume +-, the ninten logo appears... and a black screen. If I remove the 3.3 and the ground of the chip, it turns on normally

try the emmc benchmark in hekate. It's probably because of emmc read failures
 

fox87

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frozenboy

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What u mean with hot air is to big? Are u talking about a hot air gun? Ifso don't use it.

Well on the picture they both seem to have 3v but on different lines , so remove the solder bridge
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ok I guess it best to remove it, my hot air gun can help me remove it, but the speed and amount of air could make it event worst
 

Flaviocarvalho

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Guys...with this adapter i can make a backup of the nintendo switch emmc?
 

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QuiTim

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ok I guess it best to remove it, my hot air gun can help me remove it, but the speed and amount of air could make it event worst
Add some more solder to the bridge then use some desoldering wick (with flux) from the side and it should come right off.
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Guys...with this adapter i can make a backup of the nintendo switch emmc?
I think you need something like this
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKcCvEs
 
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QuiTim

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Out of the 3 v1's I've done, they've all required double resistors on dat0/cmd for ofw to work properly. Is there any drawback to do this on all switches? should we start recommending stronger resistors?
I've done one v1 and that's the only one that needed another 47r on dat0.
 

Flaviocarvalho

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Add some more solder to the bridge then use some desoldering wick (with flux) from the side and it should come right off.
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I think you need something like this
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKcCvEs
This one is very expensive...thats why i asked if the other should work...but o guess not right?
 

QuiTim

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This one is very expensive...thats why i asked if the other should work...but o guess not right?
Never seen one being used for this purpose. The more expensive one on Ali is a clone of this https://www.tindie.com/products/ignas/emmc-reader-for-hac-emmc/ and it was made for this purpose.
I was only going to use the cheap one in pair with some 4gb emmc to play around and get a good feeling on the reball process before I do a permanent dat0 on a new Zelda Oled
*Edit: for the future, if you ever wanna go pro get this one https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLRUMUg
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View attachment 375741
Hi everyone, I am moding v1 with picofly, I got a bridge in 3.3 cap and the cap next to it (pic above), I am unable to remove the bridge. Will it work normally or I am destroying my V1. This 2 cap is so close and easy to be bridge. I am spend 30 minutes trying to remove it but no hope
This 3v3 point is pain in the as* without a 0.1 solder tip, good wire and steady hands. Use the 3v3 on emmc board next time, much easier.
 

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Dee87

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Out of the 3 v1's I've done, they've all required double resistors on dat0/cmd for ofw to work properly. Is there any drawback to do this on all switches? should we start recommending stronger resistors?
i done multiple v1 and only had one with a samsung emmc that needed double dat and cmd that needed double otherwise the otherone havent had any issues and that was the only device that nedded double .
 

deeps

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i done multiple v1 and only had one with a samsung emmc that needed double dat and cmd that needed double otherwise the otherone havent had any issues and that was the only device that nedded double .
One of my v1's didn't have any slow emmc mode problems in hekate, but crashed in ofw once every few days with error codes indicating file system errors. Added extra resistors on dat0/cmd and haven't seen any problems since.
What i'm trying to say is that "no issues" isn't exactly clear cut.

So why not add extra resistors always? or even better, just use a single 91 ohm resistor. could it cause any other problems?
 
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Takezo-San

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Can anyone who has used IRFHS8342 mosfet tell me if the distance between legs fits a 0201 resistor exactly, so that i order the correct size in order to set it as a pull down resistor with perfect fit between legs.
Yes. Have a look. It's covered in mask but it's there
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My hot air is too big for this, I afraid blow all cap around it and end up as a disaster. Next time I will find another spot
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97410833_10157668027629209_2812355155335315456_o-jpg.209024
I found a pic in this forum about it. I seem it is ok to be bridge. But I not sure, anyone can confirm this?
Docked won't work if it's bridged
 

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MegaDeKay

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Can someone tell me if it is safe to briefly power on the Switch to test the hack without the heatsink and APU shield put back on? I'd like to quickly test the hack before reapplying the solder paste. At least as far as the PicoFly "No SD card" screen. All the way to Hekate would be a bonus.
 
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