Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

rehius · Mar 23, 2023

linuxares said:
Rats! Aight... any safer place for drilling? xD

there are only two possible places, the one with an arrow on the PCB, and the one close to the CPU cover (requires desoldering part of the cover)

in both cases it is very easy to cut the trace in the process, so reballing is your choice, unfortunately

linuxares · Mar 23, 2023

rehius said:
there are only two possible places, the one with an arrow on the PCB, and the one close to the CPU cover (requires desoldering part of the cover)

in both cases it is very easy to cut the trace in the process, so reballing is your choice, unfortunately

I hope someone develops a better "ankor" then. What I read it seems to be kind of hit and miss.

impeeza · Mar 23, 2023

rehius said:
there are only two possible places, the one with an arrow on the PCB, and the one close to the CPU cover (requires desoldering part of the cover)

in both cases it is very easy to cut the trace in the process, so reballing is your choice, unfortunately

this time big N think well about that.

Warbeast · Mar 23, 2023

Kid4life79 said:
Is this correct? Trace 6, 7 and 11 from left to right?

Looks ok to me i tested another pico with a usbc to micro adapter and couldnt get it to detect so thought maybe it uses the cc pin however it turned out just to be my old cables

also on your photo one of the boot button pads is lifted im not sure what out of the four need to be bridged

handsom_tomato · Mar 23, 2023

Help me!
mariko v2

I tried to solder to the RST point of the eMMC, but it was too small and in the process, the land was removed. How can I connect to the RST now? Should I jumper to the left connector?

3CP-andres-N · Mar 23, 2023

Contra8bit said:
Is there a way to use boot0/boot1 from another oled?

what do you want to do with it??? to see if I can help you

BigHorse420 · Mar 23, 2023

handsom_tomato said:
Help me!
mariko v2

I tried to solder to the RST point of the eMMC, but it was too small and in the process, the land was removed. How can I connect to the RST now? Should I jumper to the left connector?

land?

handsom_tomato · Mar 23, 2023

it is damaged Pads

SQc04 · Mar 23, 2023

Warbeast said:
Looks ok to me i tested another pico with a usbc to micro adapter and couldnt get it to detect so thought maybe it uses the cc pin however it turned out just to be my old cables

also on your photo one of the boot button pads is lifted im not sure what out of the four need to be bridged View attachment 360903

Each of the cc pins of the 16-pin Typec interface is connected to a 5.1KΩ pull-down resistor

impeeza · Mar 23, 2023

BigHorse420 said:
land?

This is the great of temp, we have tempers from around the world, and sometimes this happen, by example recently I put a post about a condenser (which is a wright term) but on USA is more often used capacitor and the thread get confused, I am sorry for causing it.

I think land refers to the pad or the via (track) get lifted.

Normally you need to track the via and find another test point.

SQc04 · Mar 23, 2023

SQc04 said:
Each of the cc pins of the 16-pin Typec interface is connected to a 5.1KΩ pull-down resistor

Like this

Warbeast · Mar 23, 2023

Kid4life79 said:
Is this correct? Trace 6, 7 and 11 from left to right?

Just had a look on my other pico and to press boot you just need to ground the top right pad of the button

handsom_tomato · Mar 23, 2023

impeeza said:
This is the great of temp, we have tempers from around the world, and sometimes this happen, by example recently I put a post about a condenser (which is a wright term) but on USA is more often used capacitor and the thread get confused, I am sorry for causing it.

I think land refers to the pad or the via (track) get lifted.

Normally you need to track the via and find another test point.

soldering still feels too difficult for me...

SQc04 · Mar 23, 2023

linuxares said:
Anyone got a modchip on a OLED installed and a multimeter (and possibily the courage to do some scratching of soldermask?).

RED = DAT0, the image moves so I think it's the 2nd bottom.
GREEN = possible area it leads to.
BLUE, PURPLE, PINK = Areas that needs to be probed. Since they seem to go to the CPU after their transistor.
View attachment 360890 View attachment 360891
View attachment 360892

It's still too risky, take the EMMC off and add an FPC between the PCB of EMMC and NS may be better

impeeza · Mar 23, 2023

SQc04 said:
It's still too risky, take the EMMC off and add an FPC between the PCB of EMMC and NS may be better
View attachment 360914

Yes there are boards on the market of two types one the described on that picture, you desolder the EMMC chip and reball the PCB between the EMMC chip and the console PCB, are other type where you insert a flex adapter by the side and a little tab makes contact to the actual ball of the DAT0. booth are the current options.

SQc04 · Mar 23, 2023

handsom_tomato said:
View attachment 360913
soldering still feels too difficult for me...

The temperature should not be too high, and the best temperature of the electric soldering iron during welding is 300~350 °C

Kid4life79 · Mar 23, 2023

Warbeast said:
Looks ok to me i tested another pico with a usbc to micro adapter and couldnt get it to detect so thought maybe it uses the cc pin however it turned out just to be my old cables

also on your photo one of the boot button pads is lifted im not sure what out of the four need to be bridged View attachment 360903

Thank you for the confirmation. Yes, I was aware of the lifted pad but knew I could use 2 of the remaining 3.

SQc04 · Mar 23, 2023

impeeza said:
There is a guide to repair sysnand damaged by SXOS recreating BOOT0/BOOT1 from scratch, I really do not remember the URL but you can find easily on the search at top of page.

Wow is an absolute mindblow gadget, there is there a RGB LED?

Is a good idea but for the glitch be stable you need to have the MOSFET closes as you can to the capacitors for avoid "Eddy-currents" and timing issues. That´s why even the hflw have a separated flex cable to the CPU.

Yes, the 2812B RGB LED in the 1204 package is integrated

linuxares · Mar 23, 2023

SQc04 said:
It's still too risky, take the EMMC off and add an FPC between the PCB of EMMC and NS may be better
View attachment 360914

Ye, but won't it get to "high" up if so? Plus extra amount of failure points because of all the ball joints.

SQc04 · Mar 23, 2023

linuxares said:
Ye, but won't it get to "high" up if so? Plus extra amount of failure points because of all the ball joints.

At least better than drilling a big hole in the PCB

Post automatically merged: Mar 23, 2023

SQc04 said:
At least better than drilling a big hole in the PCB

If the wire is accidentally broken during drilling, the entire PCB is scrapped, and the failure of the solder ball connection can be removed and reinstalled.

Post automatically merged: Mar 23, 2023

There are no test points added to the PCB, which is very uncomfortable

Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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