just search for hwfly, and it will be on many of the product pages, there is all different flexs depending on the console/chip so find one that suits you.
I wish I knew that earlier because was in france last week, I'll just buy on aliexpress tho no problem.if you live in france, I know a seller
by the way, it's this one right? I have the v2
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evening everyone first time I write ... I installed a rp2040 yes of a Mariko to do the tests .... for any test I'm here
This Is the lite versione v2
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evening everyone first time I write ... I installed a rp2040 yes of a Mariko to do the tests .... for any test I'm here
Hard to really give a suggestion. There was some working on a proper pcb for picofly which honestly is the way to go if you’re willing to wait. However that may never be mass produced and waiting may be in vain. If you’re not in any rush I would wait. In the meantime I would suggest practicing on your micro soldering skills. Points on the switch are smaller than you might think. Would hate for you to destroy your switch.
New to the thread, been lurking for a few days though. What I'm reading that as is you could wait for a pcb to be made, or be impatient and make a hacky picofly yourself with the hwfly flex cable and a bog standard rp2040.
I now how tiny is the points in switch, I open mine to see the components and evaluate if I'm capable or not, and sincerely i think I can do it of solder the flex.
But after read all opinions, I think maybe I'm wrong. Have another things I not think, like too much temperature can damage the components (it's that right?!), And the tipo of solder I should use. I will check if some cell done repair shop can do it for me. Maybe is the better way.
I only like to do things by myself, learn with the work and be proud after done something that work...
And you can do that, there is no problem, it's just a very dangerous solder point for someone wiith close to no knowledge to do it, you can destroy your switch very easily. If you have a cell phone repair shop close to you it's just hte best option
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Got it, thank you!
Can you explain to me a few ways that I can destroy my switch?! Some points that I really pay more attention?!
i think you forgot to post your picture of the Lite (Mariko) version
here is the V1 Erista and V2 (regular Mariko)
(The V2 Mariko was flipped in the OP pic)
there are no difference in flex for v2, lite, oled.
there only difference between v1 and v2.
The components are the same, but the termination end is different between all three.
Find an old laptop motherboard or something else that you can practice on. Things you don't want to do:
- Burn the components/board by leaving the iron on them too long
- Pull pads/components off the board
- Bridge points that shouldn't be
No we do not need a new pcb for it to work. Though you will need to add in 3 caps. I’m refusing to a pcb that is designed for the switch in mind is all.
There are multiple ways but the first things that come to mind that I’ve seen multiple people struggle with, depending on switch Version is:
- To much heat on components can kill them.
- Screen connector gets easily damaged so take caution.
- CLK point is super small and is a via as well. Rip trace or damage via and it’s RIP… your not running a jumper here
- CMD point for some reason. I find it very easy but people kill the resistor with to much heat
Last edited by kylum,
That two points you talk about I only need to solder something if I choose pico, if I choose hwfly, that is not need right?!
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Sonic Angel Knight:
Or, I also heard that if you use flash memory, it can act as more "RAM" at least windows tell me when I stick a flash drive into it. -
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K3Nv2:
I can think of the design teams process another joystick and no audio or a joystick and mono audio -
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