Hacking Hardware McFly - an RP2040 board compatible with Picofly

Kinokoda

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I doubt you have a usb sub-board with 5v->3.3v regulator, also you need connect (5v,d+,d-,GND& boost pin) for FW flash
I'll go to an electronic parts store tomorrow to get stuff like a regulator, a USB breakout noard, and some thin wire. Also, what is the boost pin?
 

jkyoho

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I'll go to an electronic parts store tomorrow to get stuff like a regulator, a USB breakout noard, and some thin wire. Also, what is the boost pin?
Sorry, typo, I meant boot point which should refer to "B" point from the design,
1688579153594.png
 
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QuiTim

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HOW do you connect the 5v-3.3v regulator on your board in order to do fw flash
@floxcap was kind enough to send me one of his boards and i'm eagerly waiting to get my hands on a switch I bought (still not here) so I can try it.
I was thinking of using a simple curcuit with the Ldo from rp2040 board to supply the 3v3 to mcfly.
Do you think this (picture) should work?
I've oreder some ready to use from aliexpres but it will take ages for them to arrive
 

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floxcap

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@floxcap was kind enough to send me one of his boards and i'm eagerly waiting to get my hands on a switch I bought (still not here) so I can try it.
I was thinking of using a simple curcuit with the Ldo from rp2040 board to supply the 3v3 to mcfly.
Do you think this (picture) should work?
I've oreder some ready to use from aliexpres but it will take ages for them to arrive
That'll totally work - you don't even need the capacitors (there's enough on the board). I just put the ldo in the USB cable... 5V & GND to 3.3V output.
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View attachment 381716

It's here! What setup should i do for flashing these and how do I do so? Do I just use the same firmware that any picofly uses?
There's a button on the board (boot) to force flashing mode (similar to other rp2040) boards. But with un programmed boards all you need is D+, D-, GND, 3.3V. - check my post about the pogo pins 🙂
Yes - any of the picofly firmwares will work - I think most people are using 2.73 at the moment. Everything from the AIO guide applies and the board matches the waveshare pinout.
 
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Dee87

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believe me i tried. but i didnt want to become annoying
Ah that sucks , I mean on one side I understand him but if u tell him u take the risk he should try , u try someone from the forum ? Maybe ull find someone who lives in ur country
 
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Kinokoda

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Guys ya won't believe it...

FIRST TRY! After Finishing the wiring to the chip it went to the "no sd" screen. The only thing that is iffy is that after I get to that screen the first time, if I press the power button again the neopixel led on the chip flashes green twice. I checked the RST wire and it looked fine to me. Unplugging the battery and plugging it back in did the trick and allowed me to go back to the no sd thingamajig. I'll look into the documentation and other help threads on the forum and I'll come back then.
'γεια στα χερια σου, floxcap!


EDIT: I can no longer get to the no sd screen. Led starts blue and then blinks yellow twice. I ll check RST tmrw becasue I am very tired rn
1690057353250.png
 
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CMDreamer

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Instead of the snapping part, how about using an horizontal FPC connector and a daughter board with USB capabilities, so if we need to reprogram the unit, we just use a flat cable and the daughter board to connect it to the PC?

Hold on, it has already been done, search for the RP2040 Tiny. Can someone confirm if this is fully compatible to be used as a PicoFly?
 

QuiTim

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Instead of the snapping part, how about using an horizontal FPC connector and a daughter board with USB capabilities, so if we need to reprogram the unit, we just use a flat cable and the daughter board to connect it to the PC?

Hold on, it has already been done, search for the RP2040 Tiny. Can someone confirm if this is fully compatible to be used as a PicoFly?
RP2040 Tiny was designed with picofly in mind and based on discussions and experimentations done by members in the other Picofly thread, they even added 3x47ohm resistors to the lines.
So, to confirm, if you are just starting out and you want to order rp2040 for this mod go with the Tiny version. Works like a charm
 
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Dee87

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Instead of the snapping part, how about using an horizontal FPC connector and a daughter board with USB capabilities, so if we need to reprogram the unit, we just use a flat cable and the daughter board to connect it to the PC?

Hold on, it has already been done, search for the RP2040 Tiny. Can someone confirm if this is fully compatible to be used as a PicoFly?
thats what we did with the first rp2040 zeros check page 80 orso on the main thread
, but now there are the rp2040 tiny like i said , they are fully capable i started using them 10 oleds ago and never will use a different one.
 
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CMDreamer

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RP2040 Tiny was designed with picofly in mind and based on discussions and experimentations done by members in the other Picofly thread, they even added 3x47ohm resistors to the lines.
So, to confirm, if you are just starting out and you want to order rp2040 for this mod go with the Tiny version. Works like a charm

thats what we did with the first rp2040 zeros check page 80 orso on the main thread
, but now there are the rp2040 tiny like i said , they are fully capable i started using them 10 oleds ago and never will use a different one.

Thank you both for answering and clearing my doubts. Will order some Tinys when I get home.
 
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Kinokoda

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Update: uninstalled the chip temporarily. I will clean up my soldering and redo the wires to try and get rid of any issues. Should I also install the scl and sda lines?

oh and a small disclaimer: I am not the best at soldering, but I am stupid enough and have worked with electronics long enough to be comfortable with an iron. I will say that this has been the most mentally tiring project i have ever done, and that getting someone else to do this for you is always a better idea.(by someone else I mean a PROFESSIONAL.)
 
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granrey

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yo would yall recommend this for someone that wants to get into modding their switch i have a little expierience with soldering and i have a v2
 

Kinokoda

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Aight, we're done. My Switch is now modded and will live a happy life as a linux tablet for networking stuff. There is one issue tho: If I boot the system up and then shut it down, it won't boot up again unless I disconnect the battery. Any ideas on how to potentially fix this? (Samsung eMMC btw)

If any other info is needed, hit me up.
 
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