Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

QuiTim

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if no bridge, switch not working without the chip ?
Point 1 and 2 on this picture need to be connected together. Point 1 goes to emmc and point 2 goes through the pcb board to the APU I think. If these 2 points are not connected together the Switch will not works (with or without chip, it does not matter).
You need to fix this first, see of the switch is working, then decide if you want to install the pikofly or not.
 

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Elpoep

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I use 370 degrees, 25% air speed and the largest nozzle (about 1cm wide). buttons come off in about 5 seconds. usb maybe 10 seconds.
One centimeter? that's very skinny, like one-tenth of an inch. You said your largets nozzle, so, I'm guessing more around a half inch?

Thanks for replying, I'll be trying this today.
 

deeps

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One centimeter? that's very skinny, like one-tenth of an inch. You said your largets nozzle, so, I'm guessing more around a half inch?

Thanks for replying, I'll be trying this today.
bruh. one centimeter is 0.4 inch.

edit: and I guess I should clarify that those 370 degrees are the celsius kind, which equals about 700 degrees fahrenheit
 
Last edited by deeps,

chronoss

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No bridge NO work
Point 1 and 2 on this picture need to be connected together. Point 1 goes to emmc and point 2 goes through the pcb board to the APU I think. If these 2 points are not connected together the Switch will not works (with or without chip, it does not matter).
You need to fix this first, see of the switch is workin, then decide if you want to install the pikofly or not.
no work on official, i must fix this f... trick ..... sorry :(
 

Elpoep

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Post automatically merged:

I was doing my Switch installation with a 0.3mm enameled wire, and I broke too many traces. I couldn't find 0.2mm anywhere near me. Luckily, BNTECHGO listed a one-lb 32 AWG in my local shop, Oh boy did it not make all the difference. Looks red and sexy too.

0.2mm wire is the way to go like many have here said.
View attachment 367094
32awg ftw
 

Dee87

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I breack my dat0 point, there is an alternative ? 😔
first of all u need to fix that bridge point otherwise u wont get ur switch runing at all.
then u can search for a alternative point
Post automatically merged:

if no bridge, switch not working without the chip ?
not gonna work at all since u need that dat0 point
 

vulp_vibes

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a follow-up to my previous post about relocating the status LED to the home button of the switch lite, I was successful in doing so with the detachable joy-con as well. not very practical, but fun. used pin 6 of the joy-con, JRST, to run the LED data line out of the console and into the controller.

edit: this method causes issues with the joy-con being detected in handheld mode, and is not recommended. may look into alternatives when I am able

 
Last edited by vulp_vibes,

QuiTim

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a follow-up to my previous post about relocating the status LED to the home button of the switch lite, I was successful in doing so with the detachable joy-con as well. not very practical, but fun. used pin 6 of the joy-con, JRST, to run the LED data line out of the console and into the controller.

View attachment 380821
Nice work man and thank you for sharing this with all of us here.
I'm so looking forward to doing this in the next few days.
Although I get the general idea of how it should be done now, any pictures of instalation or diagrams would be highly appreciated.
Cheers
 
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abal1000x

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I'm thinking here if I change the rp2040 that I got and put the model that people use, will it work?
View attachment 380829
Simply add another resistor on the cmd and/or dat0 into around 100ohms.
Usually people add another 47ohms to existing 47ohms.

I once meet that on v2, and simply add resistor on cmd fixed it.
 
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Pickle_Rick

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u do know they are supported there was firmware created for them u do know that correct?

you just dont get the point ?
they are selling hardware with preflashed software from this forum and making money off of someone elses work who did it for the community for free........
Post automatically merged:


^^
they are selling hardware with preflashed software from this forum and making money off of someone elses work who did it for the community for free........
Maybe I just didn't understand you but you said this firmware doesn't work on the Hwfly RP2040. Which is untrue. No need to make it weird or read anymore into it.
 

Dee87

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Maybe I just didn't understand you but you said this firmware doesn't work on the Hwfly RP2040. Which is untrue. No need to make it weird or read anymore into it.
i said im not sure, but i have read from some people using the same firmware and thats why i said we should not do support for them cause they "steal" the idea and the work from people who did it for the community and sell them Preflashed with the firmware that was created in this forum from people who didnt get one cent and did this all for the community and they profit from other peoples work.

sure the firmware is free available but they make money off if it and dont give the buyers support thats the main reson we should not support them :-)

its up to everyone themself what they support and what not.
thats why i always advise them to eather create there own thread for those clones and not overrun the threads with devices that are not in the supportet list.
 

bilalhassan341

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i said im not sure, but i have read from some people using the same firmware and thats why i said we should not do support for them cause they "steal" the idea and the work from people who did it for the community and sell them Preflashed with the firmware that was created in this forum from people who didnt get one cent and did this all for the community and they profit from other peoples work.

sure the firmware is free available but they make money off if it and dont give the buyers support thats the main reson we should not support them :-)

its up to everyone themself what they support and what not.
thats why i always advise them to eather create there own thread for those clones and not overrun the threads with devices that are not in the supportet list.
Well Said!!!!.
Post automatically merged:

a follow-up to my previous post about relocating the status LED to the home button of the switch lite, I was successful in doing so with the detachable joy-con as well. not very practical, but fun. used pin 6 of the joy-con, JRST, to run the LED data line out of the console and into the controller.

View attachment 380821
It is Feautibull!!!...
 

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