Yup, thats good enough. Just try changing from the easiest ground, 3.3, rst, clk, cmd, d0.
But be carefull as thicker wire can rip apart pcb solder pad.
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
It made no difference. I got it to boot once to the correct screen and when I put the shield on again it’s just a blue light
Attachments
Hey guys, I screwed up (OLED Kiosk model). Everything was going fine until I was bridging the connection for the 3.3v point. I accidentally got solder between some nearby resistors, and ultimately decided to use my hot air gun to pull them off the board.
While this was a good backup solution, I somehow misplaced the resistors, and now I do not know where they are: Does anyone happen to know what the red resistor measurements are? I am considering ordering replacement parts to complete the installation.
I also swear that there was a resistor in the annotated green region: if it exists, can someone confirm it + provide the specs so I can replace that, too?
While this was a good backup solution, I somehow misplaced the resistors, and now I do not know where they are: Does anyone happen to know what the red resistor measurements are? I am considering ordering replacement parts to complete the installation.
I also swear that there was a resistor in the annotated green region: if it exists, can someone confirm it + provide the specs so I can replace that, too?
Last edited by CrispyYoshi,
This happens when you screw up(literal screw) the shield or even when unscrew?
Also please try to cover whole motherboard including pico (yes full cover) with thin plastic before you put the shield.. and see what happens.
And last thing, try to move ground point to here or here
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
It’ll do it both ways. When I say shield I’m referring to the shield over the CPU and than the heat sink. I got it to boot again and am currently modding it. The heat sink is not screwed down.
Also, out of curiosity why should I move the ground point there?
Post automatically merged:
Would it be terrible not to screw down the heat sink?
Also, out of curiosity why should I move the ground point there?
Last edited by BlueBeans,
If it didn't work with 0.1 then u had solderjoint problems , the only wire that needs to be thicker are the 0.2wiresenameled need practice to solder
i need a month to understand how it work.
first im using 0.1mm but doesnt work for my switch
and then 0.2mm
is success for me
Yes it would, you can still get away without the whole soc&ram shield/cover.. but you definitely need to screw down those 3 heatsink leg.
But who knows maybe you can and it wont overheat, cause on Lite never it will enter Dock mode so it wont overheat.. just maybe.
For interference reason... as i once done CPU wire close to Ground wire give issues always boot to ofw, then after i make it far apart it boots normally.Also, out of curiosity why should I move the ground point there?
Well there must be something shorting otherwise u wouldn't have issues while screwing it don't do u have a solder blob on the bottom side of the pico , so when u tighten it don't is pusches on the bottum shield? Are there any lines that are squeezed with the shield?
Post automatically merged:
If its only when ur screwing ur heat shield down I would check the mostfets, to much solder on them or the caps?It’ll do it both ways. When I say shield I’m referring to the shield over the CPU and than the heat sink. I got it to boot again and am currently modding it. The heat sink is not screwed down.
Post automatically merged:
Would it be terrible not to screw down the heat sink?
Also, out of curiosity why should I move the ground point there?
Since there is only a issue when u tighten the heatsink it has to be in that areaa
I always use the exosphere on my all switch. Because it removes the original seriel information, in settings its just a zeros. So, you can ignore a 90dns. While switch tl OFW not sysnand, you will not get banned. You can also use a Hats pack from sthetix github for easy process, because it comes withe exopshere.
you are missing capacitors. I'll see if I can get the values in the meantime
Edit: @CrispyYoshi
I updated the values (still missing one)
Attachments
Last edited by QuiTim,
Happened to me and it worked when I cut the shield, just use a pen and mark where the pico lies and cut it with a pair of scissors. I'm 90% sure this will fix your problem. I use enameled wires and this has worked for me.I’m going to rip my hair out and throw this switch against the wallevery time I put the heat shield and cover back on it won’t boot. When those are attached and everything is screwed down I get a constant pulsing blue light. I’ve redone everything a half dozen time. Nothing is shorted. Everything is covered. Idk what to do anymore.
So.. second install - This time on a V2 (first was a lite) and this time it went flawlessly.
I probably learnt a few lessons on the way from my failed lite install..
eg: I got some solder mask and used it to ensure no shorted pads.
Also - not sure if it's just me or having gained some experience - but I found that the V2 install was much easier than the lite.
On the lite - I've spent a lot of time digging in to what may be going on and still haven't found a solution - it's strange that I could only get emmc to work when the pico was disconnected from power - but that does cause stability issues with the reset line. I have managed to make a full backup though and will eventually take a look at the dumped data - when I manage to get my keys (if). It does seem though that the problem I'm having on the lite is a DRAM problem - I can use / write payloads that run in IRAM only, but any attempt at using DRAM (stack/heap) causes crashes. On one occasion I kinda managed to get Hekate to "load" but it ended up only displaying a "pixelated" screen with random colors - pretty sure that's a DRAM problem too.
It could be a power issue with the DRAM - but I have no idea where to probe for the DRAM power lines - if anyone knows - I'd be grateful.
I probably learnt a few lessons on the way from my failed lite install..
eg: I got some solder mask and used it to ensure no shorted pads.
Also - not sure if it's just me or having gained some experience - but I found that the V2 install was much easier than the lite.
On the lite - I've spent a lot of time digging in to what may be going on and still haven't found a solution - it's strange that I could only get emmc to work when the pico was disconnected from power - but that does cause stability issues with the reset line. I have managed to make a full backup though and will eventually take a look at the dumped data - when I manage to get my keys (if). It does seem though that the problem I'm having on the lite is a DRAM problem - I can use / write payloads that run in IRAM only, but any attempt at using DRAM (stack/heap) causes crashes. On one occasion I kinda managed to get Hekate to "load" but it ended up only displaying a "pixelated" screen with random colors - pretty sure that's a DRAM problem too.
It could be a power issue with the DRAM - but I have no idea where to probe for the DRAM power lines - if anyone knows - I'd be grateful.
Screen like this?So.. second install - This time on a V2 (first was a lite) and this time it went flawlessly.
I probably learnt a few lessons on the way from my failed lite install..
eg: I got some solder mask and used it to ensure no shorted pads.
Also - not sure if it's just me or having gained some experience - but I found that the V2 install was much easier than the lite.
On the lite - I've spent a lot of time digging in to what may be going on and still haven't found a solution - it's strange that I could only get emmc to work when the pico was disconnected from power - but that does cause stability issues with the reset line. I have managed to make a full backup though and will eventually take a look at the dumped data - when I manage to get my keys (if). It does seem though that the problem I'm having on the lite is a DRAM problem - I can use / write payloads that run in IRAM only, but any attempt at using DRAM (stack/heap) causes crashes. On one occasion I kinda managed to get Hekate to "load" but it ended up only displaying a "pixelated" screen with random colors - pretty sure that's a DRAM problem too.
It could be a power issue with the DRAM - but I have no idea where to probe for the DRAM power lines - if anyone knows - I'd be grateful.
Attachments
My friend has a V1 unpatched, he tried to update the atmosphere and now there is no sign of life on switch. Not even a battery charging sign.
Tried Hard reset nothing worked.
Any idea?
I also don't had this switch with me right now.
Edit: Does Picofly work on Unpatched switch?because I don't have a trinketMo
Tried Hard reset nothing worked.
Any idea?
I also don't had this switch with me right now.
Edit: Does Picofly work on Unpatched switch?because I don't have a trinketMo
Last edited by bilalhassan341,
Have you tried the experiment firmware from rehius?So.. second install - This time on a V2 (first was a lite) and this time it went flawlessly.
I probably learnt a few lessons on the way from my failed lite install..
eg: I got some solder mask and used it to ensure no shorted pads.
Also - not sure if it's just me or having gained some experience - but I found that the V2 install was much easier than the lite.
On the lite - I've spent a lot of time digging in to what may be going on and still haven't found a solution - it's strange that I could only get emmc to work when the pico was disconnected from power - but that does cause stability issues with the reset line. I have managed to make a full backup though and will eventually take a look at the dumped data - when I manage to get my keys (if). It does seem though that the problem I'm having on the lite is a DRAM problem - I can use / write payloads that run in IRAM only, but any attempt at using DRAM (stack/heap) causes crashes. On one occasion I kinda managed to get Hekate to "load" but it ended up only displaying a "pixelated" screen with random colors - pretty sure that's a DRAM problem too.
It could be a power issue with the DRAM - but I have no idea where to probe for the DRAM power lines - if anyone knows - I'd be grateful.
I have Kapton tape covering the shield where the pico sits. It has to be something to do with the cable but I have no idea. i changed it 3 times so I have no idea what it could be. At this point, I almost prefer the mosfets.
Hi,
I am getting screen flickering, slow performance and black lines when I boot to the CFW or OFW on a switch oled. Overall its glitchy and slow, but works fine in Hekate.
I installed the picofly and when I was installing it I noticed that, with the multimeter in Diode Mode, I was getting ~0.355v from the CPU. I am using a V2 ribbon cable from the Hwfly modchip. Could this be the issue?
I am getting screen flickering, slow performance and black lines when I boot to the CFW or OFW on a switch oled. Overall its glitchy and slow, but works fine in Hekate.
I installed the picofly and when I was installing it I noticed that, with the multimeter in Diode Mode, I was getting ~0.355v from the CPU. I am using a V2 ribbon cable from the Hwfly modchip. Could this be the issue?
Unfortunately, mine is when I screw down the heat sink, not the metal back cover. I haven't even gotten to that one yet.
.
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