what firmware have you used? this should not happen if you had a working OFW before the install (unless you have used v2.5 firmware). If possible, please send me BOOT0 backup in PM.
to fix that you can boot stock firmware with hekate, then apply the latest system update in an official way
try double resistors (94 Ohm) for CMD & DAT0sigh.... i keep getting these messages even after resoldering almost everything as pretty as it can be
same thing. you get some interference on eMMC lines, it can't completely work on the full speed. clean flux, use shorter wires, put double resistors on CMD & D0Is strange, now I get this error when I try to launch HOS from hekate
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-78#post-10090767Someone have a link to a github for the 2.64 I don't find it thank you
Read here, my experience.Ok, is all installed and get the no sd card screen but I have a problem, if I boot with vol- + vol+ to boot stock the console get stuck in a black screen after the nintendo logo.
Try these points on the pcb. You will have shorter wires and better signal.View attachment 364784
sigh.... i keep getting these messages even after resoldering almost everything as pretty as it can be
(cant for the life of me, make a dump, i was able to do an emunand though. But also every time i try to do a FAT32 nand backup, it gives me this. SD & eMMC data (@LBA somethin somethin). any help? thanks!
those are the points im using lol, but wire size makes a difference? i never knew that. ill make them all way shorter. and ill try the rest. thank you!Read here, my experience.
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Try these points on the pcb. You will have shorter wires and better signal.
Read on first post (guide of point).
On Picofly FW 2.6 all ok.
Try another microsd card.
those are the points im using lol, but wire size makes a difference? i never knew that. ill make them all way shorter. and ill try the rest. thank you!
thank you so much, ill redo everything all show you how well i did, ur chip looks fantastic compared to mine lol, also could you please send me the link to the copper wire you use? for the life of me i cant get the wire to expose itself when im using it. no matter how much i put flux on it or that i dip it into my soldering iron with solder on it, it just doesnt expose itself properly. Anyways the place that you bought the chip from is the same place where i bought it, if you check the reviews, they all have the official logo. Idk why they remove it in the pics but its the official chip.Surely if you use a very thin wire it is better to reduce the length, otherwise you could use thicker wire.
Personally I've never had emmc reading problems.
Obviously we could give you better advice by seeing in detail the welds made and knowing the gauge of the wires used.
The advice I can give you at the moment are:
1) shorten the cables.
2) clean the excess flux well.
3) Double-check each weld under a microscope (or loupe) and touch up if you notice anything like cold welds.
4) replace the resistors, perhaps too much heat from the soldering iron could alter their values
5) personally I prepare the chip by first installing the resistors (after having isolated the points of the boot button) and then I fix the resistors with the UV mask in order to block them and use the soldering iron at max 275 degrees for a short time, placing the tip and lifting it as soon as.
See photos.
That said, if you send in detailed photos it might come up with something that pulls the bunny out of the hat/cylinder.
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By the way, I hope I haven't done something stupid/wasted money.
I bought a dozen rp2040-zero on aliexpress (13 actually being a lucky number) and only now I realize that they could be fake.
I say this because there is no raspberry logo on the chip.
Those taken from Amazon have the logo but cost 4 times more.
I attach screenshots (I don't know if I can put aliexpress direct links).
Did I screw up?
What version of the firmware are you using?Pkg1 decryption failed!
BEK is missing!
Failed to launch HOS!
I am getting this error in hekate in my pico switch lite. How can I fix it?
No worries the logo is only silk. Remove the silk to reduce the cost.Surely if you use a very thin wire it is better to reduce the length, otherwise you could use thicker wire.
Personally I've never had emmc reading problems.
Obviously we could give you better advice by seeing in detail the welds made and knowing the gauge of the wires used.
The advice I can give you at the moment are:
1) shorten the cables.
2) clean the excess flux well.
3) Double-check each weld under a microscope (or loupe) and touch up if you notice anything like cold welds.
4) replace the resistors, perhaps too much heat from the soldering iron could alter their values
5) personally I prepare the chip by first installing the resistors (after having isolated the points of the boot button) and then I fix the resistors with the UV mask in order to block them and use the soldering iron at max 275 degrees for a short time, placing the tip and lifting it as soon as.
See photos.
That said, if you send in detailed photos it might come up with something that pulls the bunny out of the hat/cylinder.
Post automatically merged:
By the way, I hope I haven't done something stupid/wasted money.
I bought a dozen rp2040-zero on aliexpress (13 actually being a lucky number) and only now I realize that they could be fake.
I say this because there is no raspberry logo on the chip.
Those taken from Amazon have the logo but cost 4 times more.
I attach screenshots (I don't know if I can put aliexpress direct links).
Did I screw up?
i flashed this PiCoFly FW2.5+unlock.uf2What version of the firmware are you using?
If you flashed the 2.5 or earlier firmware, and no unlock, then you can get this kind of message.
There was also a 2.5 + unlock file that was floating around for a while that failed to unlock the boot.
What you need is the latest firmware, which comes pre-unlocked. No unlock necessary, just flash the one file and let it rip.
Here's a link to the current guide for installing the PicoFly
https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/
Flash this one insteadi flashed this PiCoFly FW2.5+unlock.uf2
Make sure to remove the .pdf, and flash it to your RP2040 the same way you flashed the first one.
do i need also to flash the unlock.uf2?Flash this one instead
Make sure to remove the .pdf, and flash it to your RP2040 the same way you flashed the first one.
No, that is why in my original response to you, I said this,do i need also to flash the unlock.uf2?
What you need is the latest firmware, which comes pre-unlocked. No unlock necessary, just flash the one file and let it rip.
i have now the rpi logo with no sd. if i boot to hekate i still get same error ofNo, that is why in my original response to you, I said this,
this will clear your RP2040 flash rom
can i have a link of your HATS maybe its the HATS i am using from sthetix is the problem?No, that is why in my original response to you, I said this,