Hacking Trinket M0 installed inside the switch

justencase6

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has anyone tested the full board to see if there's a place that only gives power in rcm mode, if so that would be perfect power for the trinket mo, and also we could wire the switch off of the trinket it to the volume down button, as they are doing with the opensource modchip

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mattytrog

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has anyone tested the full board to see if there's a place that only gives power in rcm mode, if so that would be perfect power for the trinket mo, and also we could wire the switch off of the trinket it to the volume down button, as they are doing with the opensource modchip

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The volume and power switches are discrete. They float at about 4v and go to ground when pressed. So you will need a level shifter as it might smoke the gpio on the trinket
 

justencase6

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Possibly. But when the switch isn't grounded, you could get erratic behaviour maybe as a diode in reverse acts as a resistor. Try it. I haven't yet.
in the case of the - volume button using 4v.we can use that to switch on the trinket and inject the payload,and that would fix the trinket from being on all the time, unless there is no power at the - volume button in rcm mode

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mattytrog

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in the case of the - volume button using 4v.we can use that to switch on the trinket and inject the payload,and that would fix the trinket from being on all the time, unless there is no power at the - volume button in rcm mode

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I think there is power. Without looking at my notes I can't remember 100%.

You just got to be mindful of phantom power. May be an issue, may not be an issue.
 

justencase6

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I think there is power. Without looking at my notes I can't remember 100%.

You just got to be mindful of phantom power. May be an issue, may not be an issue.
it can be regulated, does the script that is used inject the payload automatically,or do do have to push the button on the trinket?

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mattytrog

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it can be regulated, does the script that is used inject the payload automatically,or do do have to push the button on the trinket?

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It's done automatically. It loops until it finds the usb descriptor for Tegra RCM connected. Then it runs, then sleeps until next power cycle. Rinse and repeat

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

The button is for getting into bootloader mode or reset
 

justencase6

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It's done automatically. It loops until it finds the usb descriptor for Tegra RCM connected. Then it runs, then sleeps until next power cycle. Rinse and repeat

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

The button is for getting into bootloader mode or reset
quick question, how might we go about running the trinket off of capacitors,instead of a battery, so it could work just like the sx pro does

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Joxley192

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How would u wire up the volume button cause i have trinket inside but its always powered on unless i use a press switch which i am at the moment and it loads in sx cfw if press it really quick but if i hold it it loads the sx os menu
 
Last edited by Joxley192,

X41

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View attachment 132704

The only problem fitting it on top of the battery is that the shielding doesnt sit right. Bit of a bulge. I ran all my magnet wire out of the bottom of the shielding, fastened shielding back on and stuck it here...View attachment 132700 View attachment 132701

The added bonus is that you can click the back cover twice to get it in download mode by gently flexing the back. You can update payload from usb-c then (once switch os turned off with cable connected to avoid conflicts...

lel totally forgot that i have a gbatemp acc :P

the problem with your placement is that the trinket is in the way of the air intake, which is kinda meh imho
same goes for completely removing the shielding. i really don't think that getting in the way of any cooling related stuff is a good idea
i'm currently working on a tiny custom board to go into the bottom right corner of the shielding, from where you can easily route your magwire behind the shielding and not get in the way of anything

DhHOkEDWAAAPo5P.jpg:large.jpg
(design in this pic is outdated, added two more pads to GPIOs for features™ and made it even slimmer, so it should totally fit. we'll know for sure tomorrow when i finally make the first prototype)
 
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mattytrog

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lel totally forgot that i have a gbatemp acc :P

the problem with your placement is that the trinket is in the way of the air intake, which is kinda meh imho
same goes for completely removing the shielding. i really don't think that getting in the way of any cooling related stuff is a good idea
i'm currently working on a tiny custom board to go into the bottom right corner of the shielding, from where you can easily route your magwire behind the shielding and not get in the way of anything

View attachment 134670
(design in this pic is outdated, added two more pads to GPIOs for features™ and made it even slimmer, so it should totally fit. we'll know for sure tomorrow when i finally make the first prototype)

Somebody else was on about this the other night.

Try a couple of blows down the port or "chimney". It isn`t restricted at all. The fan doesn`t even spin any faster in docked mode.

The thing about it being in the way of the air intake is negligible to non-issue. If it was placed horizontally like I have seen people doing, then I could imagine that causing some issues.

And them who remove the shield... No no no!!! It isn`t just a shield... It is a heat guide... Without it, you have the fan sucking in already heated air from all of them lovely components scattered over the whole board.

The only other solutions are removing the QFN from the trinket and mounting it. Or maybe swap it for a QFP package, mount it somewhere else and use some 40 SWG from the legs. Fit an LDO reg obviously. I`m thinking of those who don`t have any ferric chloride BTW

Or chop the shield and fit elsewhere away from this duct/chimney if the fitter is OCD.
 
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X41

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The only other solutions are removing the QFN from the trinket and mounting it. Or maybe swap it for a QFP package, mount it somewhere else and use some 40 SWG from the legs. Fit an LDO reg obviously. I`m thinking of those who don`t have any ferric chloride BTW

that's what i was thinking too :D
it's super hard tho, so i started designing a minimal PCB to keep it as small and thin (and cheap) as possible. should make things much easier and it's gonna stay very cheap
 

mattytrog

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that's what i was thinking too :D
it's super hard tho, so i started designing a minimal PCB to keep it as small and thin (and cheap) as possible. should make things much easier and it's gonna stay very cheap

I know its hard mate. Been there, failed, went there again, failed again, then FINALLY got the T-shirt! The mass-producing them especially. Horrible stuff FeCl3.

You could shave 2mm off each side of the trinket and mount along the bottom under the shield (near speaker below battery). Just leave a tiny bit round the through-holes to solder to. Get rid of those LEDs... Choices, choices.

But I know where you were coming from with the mounting in the duct. I thought "That can`t be good... Fans need a tunnel not a vacuum" but thats why I did some very unscientific tests regarding airflow. And honestly, it didn`t make a difference. I was around in the RROD days!
 

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