Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[M-O-B]

Without the Powersupply it successfully goes into rcm and Boots Hekate. But if you turn it off and First Connects it To the Power Supply it wont work. You have To hardreset it and Then it only boots ofw until you disconnect it from power

Maybe a ground Issue of something like that ? I think it has sonething To do with the External Power ? If My soldering is wrong it Should Not work at all

instead of removing the power, press the reset button on the trinket and see if rcm mode boots.

external power for what, no method uses external power, the bat or 3v pad on the trinket goes to the point in the diagram shown in all methods.

So today my diode arrived one genues told me should be the right one to fix my not charging Nintendo switch.

The diode is so big that i can read the 4 big printed letters without a magnifier.

There is something really wrong because the size is not twice not 4 time bigger...no it’s like 50 times bigger than the broken part.

I don’t know who I can trust here in this thread because I payed now over 15£ for 5 pieces of the wrong part. I won’t try to solder this part into my Nintendo switch because if the broken part is a z diode it’s not the same because a z diode drops the voltage and I think it’s more likely a z diode which I will know when I get my hands on another (not broken) Nintendo switch.

If someone want really help he/she could plug in a 5v power supply and check the voltage at both sides of the smd part (V)

Then plug in the official charger and check the also voltage at both sides of the SMD part (V)

Please let me know the voltages.

Then unplug your battery and the charger.
Check the resistance of the SMD part (V) in both ways it will tell it’s a diode or something else.

BTW: The Guy who told me “5 times” it’s a diode, I want to be sure what it is and not just to use me as a test subject what could destroy my whole switch console because of to much voltage and ignorance. A diode is not a diode, there are big difference between them.

the volts are 3.2v on the switch side of the diode, this has been said in previous post.

as for the actual size of the diode, measure the dimensions of the original one, then when looking to buy replacement parts you know what to look for instead from going of images of listed parts.

common sense should tell you this.

 

[frep]

The bootloader is here:
https://github.com/arduino/ArduinoCore-samd/raw/master/bootloaders/zero/samd21_sam_ba.bin

You can download check the link with a web browser - if you can't download, you maybe need to use the sudo command due to permissions on your sd card:

sudo wget https://github.com/arduino/ArduinoCore-samd/raw/master/bootloaders/zero/samd21_sam_ba.bin

Ah sorry for my english, I didn’t wrote it clear... I could download the bootloader on the rpi. I had problems with loading the bootloader from the rpi on the m0 chip. The openocd program should perform the following things:
Identify target chip, reset and halt target, remove write protection from bootloader, write the bootloader, set the write protection again and reset the target again.
At the moment, I fail at the step of writing the bootloader (or maybe the step before at removing the write protection).
Anyway, first I have to check, if my rpi-programmer or my target chip is the problem, either by trying the rpi-programmer on another chip (like one of my trinkets) or by using another programmer on my target chip. (I read in another adafruit-tutorial, that they usedm0-based boards as programmer).
So I havn‘t lost hope, but it will take some time.

 

[Ferris1000]

instead of removing the power, press the reset button on the trinket and see if rcm mode boots.

external power for what, no method uses external power, the bat or 3v pad on the trinket goes to the point in the diagram shown in all methods.



the volts are 3.2v on the switch side of the diode, this has been said in previous post.

as for the actual size of the diode, measure the dimensions of the original one, then when looking to buy replacement parts you know what to look for instead from going of images of listed parts.

common sense should tell you this.

So when you plug in a 15v (Original Nintendo switch) Charger it also 3.2v? Interesting so it’s a z diode which drops the voltage down from 15v to 3.2v

 

[mrdude]

Ah sorry for my english, I didn’t wrote it clear... I could download the bootloader on the rpi. I had problems with loading the bootloader from the rpi on the m0 chip. The openocd program should perform the following things:
Identify target chip, reset and halt target, remove write protection from bootloader, write the bootloader, set the write protection again and reset the target again.
At the moment, I fail at the step of writing the bootloader (or maybe the step before at removing the write protection).
Anyway, first I have to check, if my rpi-programmer or my target chip is the problem, either by trying the rpi-programmer on another chip (like one of my trinkets) or by using another programmer on my target chip. (I read in another adafruit-tutorial, that they usedm0-based boards as programmer).
So I havn‘t lost hope, but it will take some time.

It isn't shown on that picture - but you also need to connect GND on the chip to GND on the PI, did you do that?

 

[frep]

It isn't shown on that picture - but you also need to connect GND on the chip to GND on the PI, did you do that?

yeah, the ground is connected. I checked the guide more than once...
Although the pictures aren't great, you can see my setup for programming the device as well as the actual error.



Since I'm still hope that the error is in the openocd.cfg file (not the hardware), I would like to try https://learn.adafruit.com/programming-an-m0-using-an-arduino . This could probably even work with a trinket. But if a trinket is used instead of the feather m0 datalogger as in the example, I don't have an sd card reader to put the bootloader-binary on. So I had to convert the binary (.bin) to a header (.h) file (same as it is done with the payloads in the trinket sketch). But once done, this would be a nice, ultra small programmer, which would be even more user-friendly (a working sketch provided :-D )

 

[mrdude]

yeah, the ground is connected. I checked the guide more than once...
Although the pictures aren't great, you can see my setup for programming the device as well as the actual error.

View attachment 136374 View attachment 136373

Since I'm still hope that the error is in the openocd.cfg file (not the hardware), I would like to try https://learn.adafruit.com/programming-an-m0-using-an-arduino . This could probably even work with a trinket. But if a trinket is used instead of the feather m0 datalogger as in the example, I don't have an sd card reader to put the bootloader-binary on. So I had to convert the binary (.bin) to a header (.h) file (same as it is done with the payloads in the trinket sketch). But once done, this would be a nice, ultra small programmer, which would be even more user-friendly (a working sketch provided :-D )

Looking at those pics, it looks from the output of your console that the chip is detected - so it must be wired correctly. Maybe a slight adjustment to the config is needed - did you try searching google for the error you're getting?

Also looking at the output - you have swd and jtag enabled, on that picture on the adafruit, they only have swd enabled - that's why I'm thinking it's a config error. Also look near the top - the GPIO config is wrong on adfruit they specify swclk/swdio pins - on your output you're using jtag pins. Notice you need to set to pins swclk = 25, swdio = 24 - instead of 11/25 (as you currently have).

 

[mrdude]

EDIT: See post below.

 

[mrdude]

@frep

Look at the picture - the bit I put the red box in:

What you need to do is set those so the pi pins can communicate with the microprossor.

On your pi - use winscp program (windows program to get files from a pi), and navigate to: home/pi/bootloader

Download and open: openocd.cfg

Change it to:

source [find interface/raspberrypi2-native.cfg]
transport select swd

set CHIPNAME at91samd21g18
source [find target/at91samdXX.cfg]

# did not yet manage to make a working setup using srst
#reset_config srst_only
#reset_config  srst_nogate

bcm2835gpio_swd_nums 25 24 
bcm2835gpio_trst_num 7 
bcm2835gpio_srst_num 18

adapter_nsrst_delay 100
adapter_nsrst_assert_width 100

init
targets
reset halt

at91samd bootloader 0
program samd21_sam_ba verify
at91samd bootloader 8192
reset
shutdown

You might need to un-comment this: #reset_config srst_nogate

Copy the edited file back to the pi and then use putty or another telnet client to do this:

cd ~
cd bootloader
sudo openocd

You should see those GPIO pins are now assigned properly, and be able to flash the bootloader.

If that doesn't work try adding a line to change the frequency to something else: example 4mhz (obviosly not this high - it's just an example)

adapter_khz 4000

 

[re.lax]

I ended up modifying the trinket script slightly to leave an led on while the switch is one. This is my finished result, I like it because I think it showcases it nicely with the case and very helpful for telling if the switch is actually off or not.

 

[mrdude]

So when you plug in a 15v (Original Nintendo switch) Charger it also 3.2v? Interesting so it’s a z diode which drops the voltage down from 15v to 3.2v

What are you talking about? You have a battery in your switch which provides voltage, some voltage regulators, which drop and provide stable voltages, a usb port which provide other voltages, and various other circuits in your switch that all run at different voltages. Most diodes drop voltage by about 0.6volts on average.

It's clearly obvious you don't have a clue what you are doing - you are moaning about putting a diode in (when you bridge those points already to test), the diode is NOT for dropping the voltage - it's to stop the 3.2v side of the circuit being leaked into the 5v side - but allows to 5v side to go into the 3.2v side.

Stop overthinking - If you are scared to put the diode in, give your switch to someone who knows what they are doing, as you clearly don't.

 

[M-O-B]

So today my diode arrived one genues told me should be the right one to fix my not charging Nintendo switch.

The diode is so big that i can read the 4 big printed letters without a magnifier.

There is something really wrong because the size is not twice not 4 time bigger...no it’s like 50 times bigger than the broken part.

I don’t know who I can trust here in this thread because I payed now over 15£ for 5 pieces of the wrong part. I won’t try to solder this part into my Nintendo switch because if the broken part is a z diode it’s not the same because a z diode drops the voltage and I think it’s more likely a z diode which I will know when I get my hands on another (not broken) Nintendo switch.

If someone want really help he/she could plug in a 5v power supply and check the voltage at both sides of the smd part (V)

Then plug in the official charger and check the also voltage at both sides of the SMD part (V)

Please let me know the voltages.

Then unplug your battery and the charger.
Check the resistance of the SMD part (V) in both ways it will tell it’s a diode or something else.

BTW: The Guy who told me “5 times” it’s a diode, I want to be sure what it is and not just to use me as a test subject what could destroy my whole switch console because of to much voltage and ignorance. A diode is not a diode, there are big difference between them.

So when you plug in a 15v (Original Nintendo switch) Charger it also 3.2v? Interesting so it’s a z diode which drops the voltage down from 15v to 3.2v

your looking for something like or similar to the 0603 SOD-523

couple of images as a example of what and how to decide the one you want and dimensions..

these are just to give you some sort of idea of what to search for when buying.

I'm waiting on some to turn up myself as I need for other projects.

 

[Quiggy]

instead of removing the power, press the reset button on the trinket and see if rcm mode boots.

external power for what, no method uses external power, the bat or 3v pad on the trinket goes to the point in the diagram shown in all methods.



the volts are 3.2v on the switch side of the diode, this has been said in previous post.

as for the actual size of the diode, measure the dimensions of the original one, then when looking to buy replacement parts you know what to look for instead from going of images of listed parts.

common sense should tell you this.

I tried that. It seems that the trinket is not able to get the signal of pad 4... I think this triggers the reboot of the trinket?
If I reset it manually it starts and just go back to sleep. Tried to trigger RCM by pressing power and the reset button manually but I think the timing is to exact to try this manually.

By external power I meant the Power from the power supply. My trinket is wired as you explained in the guide. Several people in the ReSwitched discord said they have the same behavior with this install.

 

[M-O-B]

I tried that. It seems that the trinket is not able to get the signal of pad 4... I think this triggers the reboot of the trinket?
If I reset it manually it starts and just go back to sleep. Tried to trigger RCM by pressing power and the reset button manually but I think the timing is to exact to try this manually.

By external power I meant the Power from the power supply. My trinket is wired as you explained in the guide. Several people in the ReSwitched discord said they have the same behavior with this install.

my guide says nothing about external it's all internal, if you have a external power source then one you ain't followed my guide and two this might explain the issue your having.

 

[Quiggy]

i do not having any external power for the trinket everything is internal. but in the moment you connect the power supply (usb-c) to the switch the trinket is not working as expected. if I disconnect it everything is fine.

 

[M-O-B]

i do not having any external power for the trinket everything is internal. but in the moment you connect the power supply (usb-c) to the switch the trinket is not working as expected. if I disconnect it everything is fine.

then you have a solder or wire issue, i have not had or seen anyone with this issue, i've done a few installs using method 1 and 3.

 

[LFPereira]

Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

View attachment 133958

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.
View attachment 133961

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.
View attachment 133962

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.
View attachment 133963


Alternative Point For Pad 4.

View attachment 133965

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

View attachment 133966

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)

I Have Posted The Payload Sketches I've Used Or Rather Tested.

One Set Is For Use With The Arduino Software, And The CURRENT UF2 Set Is For Drag & Drop Onto The Trinket Once You Have It In Boot Loader Mode.

Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.



I Think That Covers Everything.


Edit..
Have Updated The Files Hekate Ctcaer 3.1 & Drag An Drop Files For 3.1 & SXSO, These Files Will Work On The Dongle & Install Method.

EDIT 2.

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

View attachment 134825

the pad on the power button to use.

View attachment 134826

this is my test of it so far everything seems fine.

sleep mode battery drain was 19% in 2 hours.



i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT 3 another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

View attachment 135043

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.



ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.


View attachment 135404

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

Would it work with Digispark ATtiny85?

uploads.filipeflop.com/2017/07/1-26-600x600.jpg

 

[tecfreak]

Would it work with Digispark ATtiny85?

No.

 

[Sonyrulesok]

Hi guys I hoping someone could help. I installed the trinket using method 1, all went well. it was working fine but when I woke up this morning it had stopped working. Took the switch apart and there are no lights on the trinket. its not shorting as far as I can see and not touching any metal surface. No reaction from hitting the button on the trinket and all wires are soldered in correctly not do not seem to be touching. I'm at a loss. I installed it yesterday. Worked fine all day and then this morning nothing.

 

[M-O-B]

Hi guys I hoping someone could help. I installed the trinket using method 1, all went well. it was working fine but when I woke up this morning it had stopped working. Took the switch apart and there are no lights on the trinket. its not shorting as far as I can see and not touching any metal surface. No reaction from hitting the button on the trinket and all wires are soldered in correctly not do not seem to be touching. I'm at a loss. I installed it yesterday. Worked fine all day and then this morning nothing.

check the volts on the 3v pad and usb pad.

sounds more like the actual ic has died.

remove the trinket and wire it to a external power source see if it powers on.

also plug usb into it and see if it powers up.

 

[mrdude]

@frep, how did you get on burning the bootloader?

I had a look on some forums and found you might need to set a fuse to enable the bootloader to be programmed. I'm still waiting for dev boards to turn up - so can't test this just now, but you could try setting this fuse in the openocd.cfg file

NVMCTRL_BOOTPROT = 0x7

See if that helps.

If that still fails, you can get a cheap programmer from ebay: j-link programmer (not sure if clones work in swd mode, clones might only work in jtag mode)

Then use this guide: for programming a booloader
https://learn.adafruit.com/proper-s...-m0/restoring-bootloader#feather-m0-or-others