Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[M-O-B]

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

 

[Deleted User]

i dont get the 2 red lights at all, just a solid green light, still no go with the new drivers

I ordered 5 the other day and 1 did the same thing. It was a dud it got hot when it first was plugged in and nothing but a green light after =/ sometimes the atmel chip is just cooked, I tested everything else on the board and it was all fine.

windows doesnt respond at all, no dings, dont see nothing in device manager, this is what i ordered

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=1528-2361-ND

Yup that's the right one.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

Exactly right, for mine they wanted me to make an account on adafruit and post a support ticket send pics etc then maybe get a replacement or refund, I just said screw it and bought more from a different vendor. It happens =/

 

[M-O-B]

I ordered 5 the other day and 1 did the same thing. It was a dud it got hot when it first was plugged in and nothing but a green light after =/ sometimes the atmel chip is just cooked, I tested everything else on the board and it was all fine.

Yup that's the right one.


Exactly right, for mine they wanted me to make an account on adafruit and post a support ticket send pics etc then maybe get a replacement or refund, I just said screw it and bought more from a different vendor. It happens =/

I just think your always are going to get a bad one in a batch, it's just luck of the draw,you buy 10 and one will be dud, your always best buying more than you need I just think buying 1 increases the risk of a dud one.

I really do wanna get one of them 15mm boards just to test, I'm not actually going to fit one at moment as I wanna wait to see if I can get something better to fit.

but I think the trinket is good enough for the job.

 

[Deleted User]

I just think your always are going to get a bad one in a batch, it's just luck of the draw,you buy 10 and one will be dud, your always best buying more than you need I just think buying 1 increases the risk of a dud one.

I really do wanna get one of them 15mm boards just to test, I'm not actually going to fit one at moment as I wanna wait to see if I can get something better to fit.

but I think the trinket is good enough for the job.

Same not only for the switch but they seem like a fun and very capable chip for prototyping lots of other projects. I've been so busy this week I haven't had much of a chance to do anything but hopefully this weekend things will quiet down and I can source out some Canadian friendly parts and shipping for down the road.

I'm having a lot of fun working on these, both the coding and electronic side is just great and it's nice having a place to share all this.

 

[mrdude]

Same not only for the switch but they seem like a fun and very capable chip for prototyping lots of other projects. I've been so busy this week I haven't had much of a chance to do anything but hopefully this weekend things will quiet down and I can source out some Canadian friendly parts and shipping for down the road.

I'm having a lot of fun working on these, both the coding and electronic side is just great and it's nice having a place to share all this.

I'm going to test out frep's design - It will be a better option for me, I've ordered all the parts needed for doing a prototype, I've run the circuit in multisim14 and everything seems to work in that. Once the prototype has been tested and works, I'm going to get some boards made up. So far all the bits should be here in about a month, then time to test - then probably another couple of weeks until the new design boards come, so I think about 2 months in total to get the new boards fitted. I'm not in a rush though - as I can use the trinket for testing code on :-), I'll connect a rs233 board to it so I can see RX/TX serial data coming from the board to make sure the code is running when it should be.

 

[taxco]

ive tried pressing reset twice fast, nothing happens, and no, no usb sound when connected.. i did notice a picture of the driver install here earlier in the thread, however it had more driver options, mine only showed 4, and i installed all 4

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I had a feeling to order more than one... sucks.

If you have a nother pc or laptop trie on that, than you will know if its is the M0

 

[Th3Monk]

Hi,

I have been following this thread. Its been a great help and I took the plunge and got a trinket m0! I currently have used method 2 and it works with a few issues. Firstly, if a USB cable is plugged in I cannot boot the Switch in OFW or CFW - once removed it'll boot and I can plug it back in. No issues from sleep. Is this a known problem or is it me?

Secondly as I understand with method 2 the trinket will continue to use power even when the switch is off. I am a novice with soldering - I have tried to solder to the capacitors with little luck (weak join and/or bridging? the switch just kept booting up when I turned it off, could not get RCM). Can someone give me some pointers of how to solder to the caps? Or is there a possible alternative point? I have seen a suggestion of scratching the PCB over on Reddit to achieve a connection for the capacitor (imgur 2NYeII1.jpg)? How much will the battery drain if I just use the original battery pad (I see from testing in sleep mode it was a difference of 1%, but what about completely off)?

Also wondering if I can use biskeydump on the trinket to dump my keys? (Done a Rawnand dump already)

Thanks

 

[Ferris1000]

FFS - you've already been told it's a DIODE - how many times do you need told - I've already posted an ebay link for what to get, any SMD diode that can work over 5 volts and 2 amps will work - there's no need to get a specific one, they all work the same way. (just make sure you solder it on the correct way around).

You said over 5v and 2A right? the power supply output is 5v 1.5A but also 15v 2.6, so are you sure that i don’t need a 3A Diode?

 

[mrdude]

Comparison of 48 pin version of the microprocessor compared to the 32 pin version:

I just got 10 of these delivered today for prototyping.

 

[frep]

Comparison of 48 pin version of the microprocessor compared to the 32 pin version:
I just got 10 of these delivered today for prototyping.

Have your 48pin microcontrollers a thermal pad on the bottom side?

 

[mrdude]

Have your 48pin microcontrollers a thermal pad on the bottom side?

No, they don't need it - these are the thin versions of the package so I imagine the heat from them is very minimal. Also notice the legs look a little easier to solder to - which is good as they are tiny as it is.

 

[frep]

No, they don't need it - these are the thin versions of the package so I imaging the heat from them is very minimal.

Very nice! The thermal pad gave me some headache. I like your choice and will also go for that version of the chip!

 

[mrdude]

Very nice! The thermal pad gave me some headache. I like your choice and will also go for that version of the chip!

If you're going to do some prototyping first - the boards I bought are good, but you get thinner ones at 0.6mm - if you want to put one in your switch, you'll be best buying those instead.

Also, if you're going to use a raspberry pi/pi2 to burn the bootloader - here's a guide to compile openOCD and connection from the PI to the chip:
https://learn.adafruit.com/programm...ing-openocd-on-raspberry-pi/compiling-openocd

 

[re.lax]

If we are using the reset pad to the power button can we remove the reset switch from the trinket?

 

[M-O-B]

If we are using the reset pad to the power button can we remove the reset switch from the trinket?

yes you can remove the reset button if your going to use the power button for rst. but i'd leave it on tbh just incase a better method is released.

 

[M-O-B]

Hi,

I have been following this thread. Its been a great help and I took the plunge and got a trinket m0! I currently have used method 2 and it works with a few issues. Firstly, if a USB cable is plugged in I cannot boot the Switch in OFW or CFW - once removed it'll boot and I can plug it back in. No issues from sleep. Is this a known problem or is it me?

Secondly as I understand with method 2 the trinket will continue to use power even when the switch is off. I am a novice with soldering - I have tried to solder to the capacitors with little luck (weak join and/or bridging? the switch just kept booting up when I turned it off, could not get RCM). Can someone give me some pointers of how to solder to the caps? Or is there a possible alternative point? I have seen a suggestion of scratching the PCB over on Reddit to achieve a connection for the capacitor (imgur 2NYeII1.jpg)? How much will the battery drain if I just use the original battery pad (I see from testing in sleep mode it was a difference of 1%, but what about completely off)?

Also wondering if I can use biskeydump on the trinket to dump my keys? (Done a Rawnand dump already)

Thanks

i never noticed any issues when using method 2, but then i didn't really boot to cfw or ofw so if anyone else has that issue i will take another look at it, as for that scratching of the trace you said was posted on reddit, i wouldn't recommend that if your a novice with a soldering iron, if you pull that trace then the fix is trickier than soldering to the cap but as for an alt point for the cap then one is posted in the op, the 2 0402 resistors can be used i yet to find out what values these 2 resistors are so becareful not to lift or damage them if they are used.., a post was made by mrdude i think on how much battery drain or current is used. not sure of the page but from 14 or 15 onwards look.

page 14 this info was posted by captian smek not mrdude.

with power led removed
During operation (for like what 5s?) : 14.9mA
During sleep - Switch Powered ON: 1.45mA
During sleep - Switch Powered OFF: 1.24mA

 

[M-O-B]

ok guys i have a repair coming in over weekend, as the guy has done a bit of damage to his switch he has a cap missing and 2 resistors missing also, and trace damage, i've mark out a cap and 2 resistors that i need to find out the correct values of but i'm only going from what he has said to me.

this cap & 2 resistors thats the trace he has bugger up also. he said he not lost the pad 4 cap but i never go from what i'm told so may need to find the value of that also.

apparently it's not working from the dock at all. but it chages up via external charger.

 

[mrdude]

ok guys i have a repair coming in over weekend, as the guy has done a bit of damage to his switch he has a cap missing and 2 resistors missing also, and trace damage, i've mark out a cap and 2 resistors that i need to find out the correct values of but i'm only going from what he has said to me.

this cap & 2 resistors thats the trace he has bugger up also. he said he not lost the pad 4 cap but i never go from what i'm told so may need to find the value of that also.

apparently it's not working from the dock at all. but it chages up via external charger.

You could just connect some wires to the board - then use a breadboard and use some 500ohm variable resistors, turn the resistance to 500 and decrease 50 ohm at a time until you find a value that works. Or use 500 to 1k ohm variable resistor (I can't see these being any higher than that TBH). You could check the value of the resistor at pin 1 of that chip and use that value as a starting point.

As for the caps - these are usually connected from a v+ to gnd, they basically just hold a charge for a small amount of time so a chip or something has better power stabilty, you could use a higher value than the ones currently on the board and it won't make any difference as they will be able to work, once again - you can use normal ones on a breadboard connected by wires to find out what ones work in the switch.

 

[Th3Monk]

i never noticed any issues when using method 2, but then i didn't really boot to cfw or ofw so if anyone else has that issue i will take another look at it, as for that scratching of the trace you said was posted on reddit, i wouldn't recommend that if your a novice with a soldering iron, if you pull that trace then the fix is trickier than soldering to the cap but as for an alt point for the cap then one is posted in the op, the 2 0402 resistors can be used i yet to find out what values these 2 resistors are so becareful not to lift or damage them if they are used.., a post was made by mrdude i think on how much battery drain or current is used. not sure of the page but from 14 or 15 onwards look.

page 14 this info was posted by captian smek not mrdude.

with power led removed
During operation (for like what 5s?) : 14.9mA
During sleep - Switch Powered ON: 1.45mA
During sleep - Switch Powered OFF: 1.24mA

Hi,

Thanks for the info. I don't think the risks outweigh the advantage for me to try soldering to the 2 0402 resistors - esp if I mess it up there is no chance I can fix them with my skill level . 1.24mA does not seem a great amount so, for now, I have left it as Method 2 - will trial how much battery is used - in the past 7 hours it seems to be 0% (without joycons attached and I accidentally turned it on twice). If it turns out to drain excessively then I'll consider giving soldering to the resistors a go. In the meantime will try to acquire another switch before the updated switches make it to the UK.

Thanks!

 

[tecfreak]

he said he not lost the pad 4 cap but i never go from what i'm told so may need to find the value of that also

It is a 4.7 µF 0402

Edit: Take a look at page 25
http://rohmfs.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/ic/interface/usb_pd/bm92t30mwv-e.pdf