Hardware soldering tips

mijuu

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Got any tips for actually getting the wire on ive been heated the tinned area and then connected them but cant seem to get the last one on.

I get a ohm reading when i connect the neg and postive together so how can you tell the different ohm reading is atually the pin on the board not just the pos and neg being connected together?
 
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dark_samus3

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Got any tips for actually getting the wire on ive been heated the tinned area and then connected them but cant seem to get the last one on.

I get a ohm reading when i connect the neg and postive together so how can you the different ohm read is atually the pin on the board or just the pos and neg being connected?
Well basically, you're touching the pad on the board and the wire which means the pad and wire are properly connected... My recommendation for getting the wire to stick easily is don't be so quick to move off of the pad, put a little solder on the iron before going in, also are you cleaning your iron somewhat often? Basically just drag it across the sponge (after you get it wet) and it'll be much easier to solder after that, keep the iron on the pad and feed the tinned wire onto the pad, make sure it's where you want it and then take the iron off, that should give you nice solid joints
 

mijuu

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yes i apply solder to the iron and wipe it on the wire brush everytime before i use it.

The first 2 are now nice gonna do the last one in a few mins just having a quick break. although im pretty sure ive cocked up the middle pad. i do get some sort of reading on the one i think ive messed up but dont know what to make of the reading as i dont understand how it works because i also get a reading when connecting pos and minus.

I suppose the bootrom error message will tell me if i cocked up the pad, nothing lifted off i just seemed to take an age to get the wire to stick and i thought i was in contact with the pad for way to long. I am however using a really small 0.5mm and maybe thats why im having trouble.
 
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mijuu

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Apply the solder after the brush not before it

Been applying solder and then brush as to keep it clean what a video on youtube said to do.

I suppose the bootrom error message will tell me if i cocked up the pad, nothing lifted off it just seemed to take an age to get the wire to stick and i thought i was in contact with the pad for way to long. I am however using a really small 0.5mm and maybe thats why im having trouble.
 

dark_samus3

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Been applying solder and then brush as to keep it clean what a video on youtube said to do.

I suppose the bootrom error message will tell me if i cocked up the pad, nothing lifted off it just seemed to take an age to get the wire to stick and i thought i was in contact with the pad for way to long. I am however using a really small 0.5mm and maybe thats why im having trouble.

The video also mentioned putting solder on the iron right before soldering as it helps speed up thermal trasfer keeping the tim e needed to heat the pad up down ;)
 

mijuu

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The video also mentioned putting solder on the iron right before soldering as it helps speed up thermal trasfer keeping the tim e needed to heat the pad up down ;)

indeed it did but was on about the one i watched several days ago. Fuck i should be in bed got work in like 5 hours.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

The video also mentioned putting solder on the iron right before soldering as it helps speed up thermal trasfer keeping the tim e needed to heat the pad up down ;)

This is what i got so far, what you reckon?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

The video also mentioned putting solder on the iron right before soldering as it helps speed up thermal trasfer keeping the tim e needed to heat the pad up down ;)

This is what i got so far, what you reckon?
 

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mijuu

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Yeah, if you have any smaller wire use that for the last pad and it'd be fine to use the larger wire for ground too... So basically you'll just need one smaller wire
havent got anything smaller if it dont work it dont work. ill redo it with 30awg tomorrow if i have to.
 

dark_samus3

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havent got anything smaller if it dont work it dont work. ill redo it with 30awg tomorrow if i have to.

Well it'll just be harder to solder but it'll work fine, I'd recommend redoing it with the 30 awg wire as the current stuff has the potential to get a lot of leverage on the pads and rip them off easily
 

Wisenheimer

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One basic tip I have is to think of Solder like adamantium from Marvel. It must be kept in its liquid form until it is ready to be used, and then once it solidifies, it is there permanently.

Allowing solder to cool and then warm up causes cracking and oxidation, and is especially problematic in lead-free solders. If you need to resolder something and it has begun to cool at all, remove the solder and start all over.
 

mijuu

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Well it'll just be harder to solder but it'll work fine, I'd recommend redoing it with the 30 awg wire as the current stuff has the potential to get a lot of leverage on the pads and rip them off easily

is that why im having so much trouble wires to big. How can i remove all the solder to reveal back down to pads to see if their still there without burning them off?

All three are connected and doesnt seem to be any bridges should be fine for a temporary mod just to get it downgraded case open.
 
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dark_samus3

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is that why im having so much trouble wires to big. How can i remove all the solder to reveal back down to pads to see if their still there without burning them off?

All three are connected and doesnt seem to be any bridges should be fine for a temporary mod just to get it downgraded case open.
Well the solder is now chemically bonded to the pad, so if the pad comes off you'll know it, don't forget about ground... And yeah should be enough for open case downgrade

EDIT: you can mostly clear the pad with your iron or you can use a wire to kinda pull the solder away from the pad (poor man's solder wick) my personal favorite way is with solder wick though you'll NEVER get all of the solder as it is (as I explained above) now chemically bonded to the pad
 
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mijuu

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Well the solder is now chemically bonded to the pad, so if the pad comes off you'll know it, don't forget about ground... And yeah should be enough for open case downgrade

EDIT: you can mostly clear the pad with your iron or you can use a wire to kinda pull the solder away from the pad (poor man's solder wick) my personal favorite way is with solder wick though you'll NEVER get all of the solder as it is (as I explained above) now chemically bonded to the pad

Yea when i cock up a solder i can see a hint of gold. So if a pad did come up it would be really obvious and hard to miss?
 

mijuu

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done for now getting some kip i think it was a good first attempt i got 2 of them done and ill order some proper blinking wire, I think thats why i was having so much trouble, not much room to work with plus the fact i suck.

I dunno i thought i damaged it as it seemed to be taking ages to get it to heat up. I could see hints of gold under the solder so hopefully its fine well see.

need more practice.

When i first saw that image above i thought the guy burnt straight through the board.
 

dark_samus3

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done for now getting some kip i think it was a good first attempt i got 2 of them done and ill order some proper blinking wire, I think thats why i was having so much trouble, not much room to work with plus the fact i suck.

I dunno i thought i damaged it as it seemed to be taking ages to get it to heat up. I could see hints of gold under the solder so hopefully its fine well see.

need more practice.

When i first saw that image above i thought the guy burnt straight through the board.

Yeah, more practice and smaller wires are probably good ideas, in that image all that happened is the contact (the actual gold plated copper part) was ripped up from the board, I think that guy actually managed to salvage it (with some ungodly hard soldering) not sure though, still looking thru the thread
 

mijuu

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Yeah, more practice and smaller wires are probably good ideas, in that image all that happened is the contact (the actual gold plated copper part) was ripped up from the board, I think that guy actually managed to salvage it (with some ungodly hard soldering) not sure though, still looking thru the thread

so one wire of a multimeter at the solder point and another and the end. If you get an ohm reading does that mean the pads good?

not bothering soldering the ground just gonna jam it in the ridges on the cartridge case, does the job lol.
 
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