So an old 3ds xl then? The reason I'm asking is they have different solder points... If you don't know the difference between new and old check your cart slot, if it's in the front its new and in the back is old
Just did a really hard soldering job, didn't want to buy a new connector and my old one got messed up so... (Check the attachments)
/offtopic
Anyways here's the pins you need to solder to on the old 3ds XL
/offtopic
Anyways here's the pins you need to solder to on the old 3ds XL
Attachments
Last edited by dark_samus3,
have read some topics on here with people advising not to bother using flux, should i or shouldnt i? Also if i need to is this stuff ok?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Consumables/sd2711/Soldering+Flux+Paste/p73706
if you can reply in the next hour would be sound as that place closes at 19.00.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Consumables/sd2711/Soldering+Flux+Paste/p73706
if you can reply in the next hour would be sound as that place closes at 19.00.
If your solder does not have flux then you have purchased the wrong solder or found some in your grandad's toolbox. In that case extra flux is all but essential. If the solder you have had some flux (it might say rosin/resin core instead) then you can get away without it for many jobs, and I do, however I do always have the flux I am about to cover to hand.
That flux from toolstation is aimed more at pipe fittings and not small electronics, and is not a good bet either way (about the only thing worse would be automotive flux which is designed to cut through the stuff you get inside engine bays). For electronics the stuff you want will look more like http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mercury-703-003-gram-Solder-Flux/dp/B003JFVCYG/ or http://www.amazon.co.uk/NO-CLEAN-Flux-Pen-Improves-Soldering-Performance/dp/B00DNAHMKK/ (I like the pens, especially the scratchy ones, but the little tubs are easier to find the real world). I have not used either of those but until you get into volume production/really precision stuff/really dirty stuff (reworking old industrial equipment or something) it is all much the same.
That flux from toolstation is aimed more at pipe fittings and not small electronics, and is not a good bet either way (about the only thing worse would be automotive flux which is designed to cut through the stuff you get inside engine bays). For electronics the stuff you want will look more like http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mercury-703-003-gram-Solder-Flux/dp/B003JFVCYG/ or http://www.amazon.co.uk/NO-CLEAN-Flux-Pen-Improves-Soldering-Performance/dp/B00DNAHMKK/ (I like the pens, especially the scratchy ones, but the little tubs are easier to find the real world). I have not used either of those but until you get into volume production/really precision stuff/really dirty stuff (reworking old industrial equipment or something) it is all much the same.
Thanks for the detailed post. I had already been to tool station on foot and thought against it as it looked like industrial use. The solder I have does have flux in it. Im using 60/40 rosin 0.32" solder, which has flux as well. I can order a pen online now was hoping i could have a faff around with it tonight to practice and it seems i can. I also have a 0.5mm chisel tip and a 1.5 conical. I just wanted to practice wiring up the sd card, nothing expensive if i ruin it.
I think the pen type will be a lot more convenient, personally.
hakko arrived today shame it looks like i ordered it out of a haribo brochure.
Pen was £13 in maplin and a huge tub type from radioshack was about £12, went to toolstation assumed it was industrial use, I then gave up trying to find it today, checked halfords also.
I think the pen type will be a lot more convenient, personally.
hakko arrived today shame it looks like i ordered it out of a haribo brochure.
Pen was £13 in maplin and a huge tub type from radioshack was about £12, went to toolstation assumed it was industrial use, I then gave up trying to find it today, checked halfords also.
Last edited by mijuu,
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you can mess around without flux but its so much easier with it, if you do mess around with your iron, always leave solder on the tip after use, as it makes tinning it easier when you use it again,
Just to add ive used plumbers flux on fpc zif connectors for the top screen on the 3ds and it works fine, but not sure how corrosive if not cleaned well tho
Just to add ive used plumbers flux on fpc zif connectors for the top screen on the 3ds and it works fine, but not sure how corrosive if not cleaned well tho
Last edited by rip-it-up,
Yeah maplin often quite literally costs 10x what things go for online, especially components ( http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5194093/ http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1000f-25v-105c-radial-electrolytic-capacitor-dt70m is not the best example but the rs one is a top flight brand where maplin is a no name piece of Chinese junk most of the time). However if you do not have a local electronics shop* you get to pay their real world tax as there are not many places I can think of that otherwise will do it consistently (lidl tool section occasionally have some but lidl tool section changes weekly).
*TV repair, vacuum cleaner repair, some second hand shops if they do some in house stuff.
*TV repair, vacuum cleaner repair, some second hand shops if they do some in house stuff.
Ill order it online and wont do anything connected to the 3ds till i get it. I can mess around and get some practice in the meantime. I've given up trying to source this stuff locally, it aint happening.
honestly the pads are huge in the 3ds in comparison to a lot of other things, if you need flux for it then you probably aren't very good at soldering or you have really crappy equipment. They may not be through-hole pads, but I have seen through hole pads of similar size to the 3ds's test pads, seriously flux is not needed... I won't say don't use it though, it can help in certain situations, and it does help clean oxidation off of the pad you're soldering to so it's really up to you whether you use it or not. Just keep in mind I easily soldered (non ultra) IDE wires to them and they're connected reliably and it was really quite easy, with your equipment I think you'll find it very easy
Last edited by dark_samus3,
Probably too big
What you COULD use is some magnent wire, if you've got any dead chargers they have little inductors in them and they contain magnent wire which is smaller than IDE wire and is easy to work with becuase it has a coating on it so it isn't conductive (you melt it off with your iron on the end) and you can salvage it like I said from dead chargers
EDIT: I took some pictures of some of the magnent wire I got out of a dead charger, you have to look for one of these
You unwrap the (in this case yellow) plastic off of it and you get a bunch of wire like this
Last edited by dark_samus3,
That's the ultra variant... Good luck separating them so you can solder them, if you can find some bigger stuff that would be better
Currently doing it now just wondering whether i should use 2 to 3 strands instead of just one. What the heck is a ultra ide cable. Also in the pic below wouldnt it be easier to just solder direct to the big pieces of metal also nicely sperated by the plastic. These wires are thing enough i reckon it would fit being wired to that bit.
