Hardware Repair Log thread for motherboard and Joycon PCB repair logs

[lpoolm]

Hi, can you give me some advice on usb c replacement please as it seems you have done many.
I have removed a damaged one with my hot air station, cleaned it all up, tinned the pads and cleaned the locator holes, but when I warm it back up and put flux on I can't seem to get the new USB to solder to the board?
I am worried about over heating the board, I have also melted a USB port by assuming I could use the hot air gun on it forgetting its plastic internally.
Any tips would be great thanks.

 

[Borega]

You need to get the board hot. It only works that way. Try heating the board from below and placing the USB port on top when you see that the solder is melted

 

[Ace_]

Thanks op for posting these, they're extremely helpful.

 

[Borega]

so I had case#11 and changed the M92T for that. That worked. But the Switch did not charge. So I changed BQ IC. That did not help. Now waiting on the PD13USB IC from China.
Some of the 0201 black resistors around the BQ IC show very low ohms though.
My questions:
Anyone know where to source the 10K 50mw 0201 carbon film resistors in Germany or Europe?
And: Is it possible that the USB port has a problem? I can send data (Payloads) but I cant charge?

 

[lpoolm]

has anyone had the following, no power switch but when i put my usb voltage reader on it it says 5.49v but 0.0a?
after watching a few youtube vids that is the correct volt but obviously the amps is not right?
i have tried different known working batteries, the main chips do not have shorts, i have changed the usb port but maybe its not been done correct and this could be the issue?
i just did not enjoy swapping it and did not fancy having to do it again.

 

[Ace_]

Have you checked the fuse? and have you checked for shorts on the usb/video chip on the back of the pcb?

I imagine it's also possible for those power chips to go bad without causing obvious shorts.

 

[lpoolm]

Have you checked the fuse? and have you checked for shorts on the usb/video chip on the back of the pcb?

I imagine it's also possible for those power chips to go bad without causing obvious shorts.

Which fuse please?

 

[Ace_]

There's a tiny fuse just above the usb port pins.

 

[Qawful]

I have a similar situation to Repair #1. Switch is completely unresponsive, doesn't seem to take any charge from either the dock or the charger. Dock light comes on and then turns off quickly.

Tested the battery and it's on a 100%, tried a known good battery and no luck there either.

Any ideas I could run with.

 

[lpoolm]

I have a similar situation to Repair #1. Switch is completely unresponsive, doesn't seem to take any charge from either the dock or the charger. Dock light comes on and then turns off quickly.

Tested the battery and it's on a 100%, tried a known good battery and no luck there either.

Any ideas I could run with.

plugged into a computer to see if its in rcm?

 

[Qawful]

plugged into a computer to see if its in rcm?

Well the battery has been unplugged a few times, so it can't be in RCM now right?

Edit:
Holy crap my dude. It boots into hekate just fine. Although reboot normal doesn't get me anywhere, just goes goes back into RCM

Edit2:
Turns out AutoRCM was on. Jeez this was a good find, thanks for all the help

 

[lpoolm]

@WadsRUs can you give more details on repair #2 I have checked fuses around the bq24913 chip and all seem fine?
Is this still likely to be the issue/worth swapping?
thanks

 

[Agilato]

I have 2 switches now with:

Switch won't turn USB tester shows 0.46 Amps and voltage on battery slowly growing shows that switch is charging, but there is no image no charge logo completely dead switch, computer detects console in RCM but after sending a payload nothing appears on the screen, no shorts on any chip on the board. I suspect PI3USB.

I think you have to add some information about blue screen also i had 2 switches with pads lift off on main CPU/GPU and some memory.

 

[bootaholic]

Glad I've stumbled upon this thread. Just repaired a switch with a bad PI3USB chip. Replaced it, switch charged up perfect turns on and functions as it should.

Seems that the switch doesn't project to a TV through a dock, though. Green light comes on dock, but no picture. I've heard the M92T36 chip controls voltage switch between projection mode and on screen. Can anyone confirm?

Checked all pinouts from board to TV (through HDMI) are ok (have continuity). Any way to check functionality of the M92T36?

 

[xstre pwnsx]

Bought a switch off craigslist with some water damage, cleaned it off with 99% ipa and toothbrush checked a bunch of capacitors things seemed fine.. (I'll check more)... showing 0.08A which is fairly low... any idea on what could be suspect for now? both the MT and BQ chips had corrosion around them.

 

[Agilato]

Bought a switch off craigslist with some water damage, cleaned it off with 99% ipa and toothbrush checked a bunch of capacitors things seemed fine.. (I'll check more)... showing 0.08A which is fairly low... any idea on what could be suspect for now? both the MT and BQ chips had corrosion around them.

I would start with an ultrasonic bath if it's possible... than look at the corrosions at the microscope... 0.08 - 0.12 is ok for motherboard without a battery...

 

[xstre pwnsx]

I would start with an ultrasonic bath if it's possible... than look at the corrosions at the microscope... 0.08 - 0.12 is ok for motherboard without a battery...

Known good battery is in there when I got the 0.08A reading , perhaps I can get a local repair shop to bathe it....

 

[bootaholic]

Got a console that won't boot. Probed around, no shorts to be found. Removed and replaced what I believe to be the ram module and it boots to the Nintendo logo but not passed that. Charges fine.

Have tried replacing M92T36 and the BQ by the battery connector. No difference.

The RAM module has me stumped. Haven't experienced this one before.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[Ace_]

The ram are the two under the shield next to the cpu/gpu combo chip. Any shorted caps on the back of the board?

 

[bootaholic]

The ram are the two under the shield next to the cpu/gpu combo chip. Any shorted caps on the back of the board?

I see. No caps shorted. Everything aligns with my known working device.

So the module I remove is not RAM, what is it then? So odd that removing it and putting a different module on would allow it to boot to Nintendo screen. I would post a photo but I have not posted enough yet...

From a bit of googling it appears to be a flash NAND chip..

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk