Repair Log thread for motherboard and Joycon PCB repair logs

WadsRUs Dec 15, 2018.

  1. bootaholic

    bootaholic Member

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    Jul 1, 2019
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    Well... I feel sort of dumb but I guess that's how you learn. Thats the eMMC module. Ok. So it seems like this module is faulty. On top of that, I have located a few shorted caps on the back of the board behind where I believe the ram modules are located.

    See photo. [​IMG]

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
     
  2. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Jun 21, 2019
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    Some times version of a software can be wrong and system will not pass logo screen. You have to check burned fuses with hekate and install needed version, search on the forum some one already mentioned how to do it before.
     
  3. Ace_

    Ace_ Advanced Member

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    Jun 5, 2019
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    I picked up a switch that had the same issue as #11 2101-0001 error due to bad M92T36. The motherboard had been messed with and usb port replaced. It still won't charge but 5v is going through the fuse after replacing the original bad fuse, it's drawing 0 amps. Could this be due to hidden usb pins not being connected? the visible ones are fine, am I correct in thinking doing a slow charge from usb cable all I need connected is 5v and ground? I don't want to replace the BQ24193 if it's just a usb port issue.
     
  4. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Jun 21, 2019
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    You can flip charging cable, if one side aren't charging other should work perfectly fine. From my experience when fuse goes bad you have to replace BQ chip.
     
  5. Ace_

    Ace_ Advanced Member

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    Jun 5, 2019
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    Thanks for the reply, I think you're right and the BQ chip needs to be changed. It detects that the cable is plugged in but doesn't charge.
     
  6. Ace_

    Ace_ Advanced Member

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    Jun 5, 2019
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    New BQ chip fitted and it charges now. :)
     
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  7. Quixotic120

    Quixotic120 Newbie

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    Aug 10, 2019
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    I just bought a dead switch and got it working, was the pi3usb. System wouldn’t turn on, plugging in showed a draw of ~0.4A but no screen indicator. Upon inspection the pi3usb was visibly broken (hole in the chip). When removed I found that pin 22 (I think, didn’t look at data sheet) on the pcb was completely gone. I replaced the pi3usb and the switch charged and eventually booted. It doesn’t work docked but otherwise is good.

    I might try to solder a jumper between the side pin 22 of the pi3usb and the nearby (I think) filter that the trace connects to; is that a reasonable assumption? My understanding is the pi3usb is basically a usb signal switch; I’m assuming the disconnected pin creates an issue with the switching into dock mode and subsequent handshaking that occurs. I can’t replace such a small qfn pad with copper tape. However I fear that by trying to solder onto the flat side pin I’ll either burn the chip or have a repair that is extremely delicate. Any other ideas that may be a bit more elegant?

    Edit: added a picture showing the damaged pi3usb and damaged pin

    Edit2: had some time so tried; no good, the sliver of exposed pad on the side of the ic isn’t enough for any kind of reliable connection. When I dock it the green light stays solid but when I switch my tv to the input the screen flashes black then jumps to the no signal screen (assuming the hdmi handshake is failing). I’m out of ideas; even removing the chip and trying to rebuild the missing pad seems like something that can’t be done at this size. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by Quixotic120, Aug 10, 2019
  8. Ace_

    Ace_ Advanced Member

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    Jun 5, 2019
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    Feeding a tinned wire under the pin and heating the exposed leg and wire using a soldering iron (small tip) should work. I managed to do it recently and it did work but unfortunately the motherboard had a shorted cpu so it was all for nothing.
     
  9. Quixotic120

    Quixotic120 Newbie

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    Aug 10, 2019
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    There is no pin; it’s a flat no leads package. There’s just the contact on the underside and the very small side contact for alignment (which is flat to the edge of the package and at least I was unable to get anything to stick to it). Thanks though!

    On the plus side it’s not I patched
     
  10. Ace_

    Ace_ Advanced Member

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    Jun 5, 2019
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    By pin I meant the exposed metal, with enough heat / flux the outter part will take solder. It helps to have a micro soldering tip on your iron.
     
  11. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Jun 21, 2019
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    What's why you have to prepare chip before soldering, i was able to repair 2 of the boards like that and pad take wire no problem... you need good flux to remove that oxidation from chip being stored. I had similar issue where switch was not docking, after same repair, resistors on the right side of burned pad were dead...
     
  12. SolidSnakeUk89

    SolidSnakeUk89 Advanced Member

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    Jul 20, 2019
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    hello All !!!

    I thought I leave you this guide I made.. this is a recollection from loads of posts and info and pics I have been finding around this forum and other websites, I use it to troubleshoot a NS

    there are still areas I haven't yet been able to work out.. for example what happens if the switch doesn't have touch but can read games, tried different daughter boards and all the same (known good) and also if I inject 1.8v in the 4th pad on the top of this little board.. I get touch ! but then wont read cards... we deffo need someone to find the PCB circuit diagram tho!

    for now.. I hope the attach works for you

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    EDIT - here it goes.. this is a map reading of voltages and Diode mode for the connectors in case someone finds it useful to check for shorts :)
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Jun 21, 2019
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    Good Job, nice one.
     
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  14. Borega

    Borega Member

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    May 26, 2019
    Germany
    Thanks you so much for that word dokument. Its rly helped me. I have a switch that wont charge. Changed bq but still nothing. It does turn on if I put a battery with charge in it though. Now I have found that the caps around the 3 phase buck regulator under the emmc are all short and one even has OL as well as some (but not all) of the caps around the 3 phase buck regulator under the processor.
    Anyone have a clue where the error could be? or is it just the caps that a gone?
     
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  15. SolidSnakeUk89

    SolidSnakeUk89 Advanced Member

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    I'll take some diode mode readings tomorrow so you can compare, you can't really believe continuity mode on caps that are close to a big chip since the multimeter may not be sensitive enough but with diode mode at least you get to see the numbers

    Can you post a pic of the caps you want me to check?? That would maybe help me allocate them on my known good mobo
     
  16. Borega

    Borega Member

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    May 26, 2019
    Germany
    Thanks. I found out about the Diode mode readings as well and found 2 caps with OL. The Caps that I need readings from are in red
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Jun 21, 2019
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    Make sure you checking caps with battery unplugged!

    You have to check caps behind main Tegra(CPU/GPU), usually if all of this guys are shorted it might be dead...
     
    Last edited by Agilato, Aug 15, 2019
  18. SolidSnakeUk89

    SolidSnakeUk89 Advanced Member

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    here you go ! hot out of the oven :)

    https://imgur.com/YQ3cQgc
    https://imgur.com/eIdRqaF

    I will include these in my Nintendo Checks Doc LOL

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    I had loads of shorts in a Mobo last week and turned out to be the PI3USB.. bit weird but after lifting it I discovered a blown up pad I guess as last resource I would start lifting chips to check 1 by 1 and hope.. if after all cant see anything strange and still shorted then is a donor board LOL
     
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  19. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Jun 21, 2019
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    Totally agree with you. I thought i mentioned it before....
     
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  20. Devon093

    Devon093 Member

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    Jul 20, 2017
    United States
    I like this thread so i will ask for help here regarding a non charging switch.

    Switch powers on and had physically damaged USB-C port. I replaced it (as I have maybe 15 times before) and i am not getting a charge in either direction of the usb c cable. The fuse near the port is good, and im pretty sure i have the port lined up correctly. Any advice? I checked for shorts on some caps and resistors but didnt find anything quickly.
     
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