Picofly AIO Thread

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Are you 100% sure those are 47ohm resistors? They appear to be labelled 470.
I don't have my microscope set up right now to check mine but I'm sure they would usually read 47R no?
Maybe I'm miss-remembering how the label codes work.

You mentioned that you measured them in continuity mode but I assumed that you meant resistance mode. Maybe double check this 🤔

Edit: See attached (from the install pdf)
470 typing are 47 ohms +/-5% whereas 47R are 47 ohms +/-1%...
 
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Are you 100% sure those are 47ohm resistors? They appear to be labelled 470.
I don't have my microscope set up right now to check mine but I'm sure they would usually read 47R no?
Maybe I'm miss-remembering how the label codes work.

You mentioned that you measured them in continuity mode but I assumed that you meant resistance mode. Maybe double check this 🤔

Edit: See attached (from the install pdf)
1695777416382.png

Also i meassured them. They are ok
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as promised,the mosfet install
1695789656362.png



I replaced the picofly again for the 3rd time. Still same result :) i will attempt a apu 2x mosfet install now even if i know that is 100% not the problem. But WHO KNOWS
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i did apu mosfet install. Same result XD its cuuuurseed im telling you
I left buttons on picofly just in case ,and pressed reset on picofly. After pressing reset i get Dat0 missing aka =* but i have it and i have all right values XD
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Well i have some good news. Finally.
The console is officially dead. I have shorts to ground on these 3 caps or whatever they are, without picofly installed or wires. I cant even boot it up. i get nothing
1695797955179.png

Plus shorts to ground on these. I dont know if this is normal or not, i compared it to a broken nintendo switch board and that one did not have these shorts.
1695797992266.png
1695798000338.png


Day 991324 of chasing ghosts with Crung. I have some bad news. After randomly applying some heat with solder iron and copper trying to clean the DAT0 pad (no it was not shorting to another pad as you can see in pictures) the demon is alive again without a modchip. What fixed it? Idfk. I guess my suffering continues.
1695807442511.png

I modded a lite today and everything worked flawlessly first try no problems. If you see this in future ,having the same problems,and are looking for a fix. The fix is to throw it in garbage bin and move on with life.
 
Last edited by Crung,
I got my oled done it boots up im able to select atmosphere and then it powers off and i have to pull the battery plug out and put it back in to get it to boot back up
 
I have weird issue at some point that my switch always boot to OFW but the LED indicators of the chip says somehow the glitch is success (Long Blue Light >> Short yellow Light .. all of it happens within 3-5 seconds).

Had to press Volume + and press the power button to boot up to hekate. after that it always boot to hekate now. Can anyone tell why that happen all of the sudden? According to the picofly pdf, press and hold volume + and press power button once should only be used to boot to OFW but this time its reverse. Or is it a some sort of toggle to set boot flag always boot to Hekate/OFW when you press Volume + and power?
 
I have weird issue at some point that my switch always boot to OFW but the LED indicators of the chip says somehow the glitch is success (Long Blue Light >> Short yellow Light .. all of it happens within 3-5 seconds).

Had to press Volume + and press the power button to boot up to hekate. after that it always boot to hekate now. Can anyone tell why that happen all of the sudden? According to the picofly pdf, press and hold volume + and press power button once should only be used to boot to OFW but this time its reverse. Or is it a some sort of toggle to set boot flag always boot to Hekate/OFW when you press Volume + and power?
Look for the auto boot option in Hekate.

Either turn it off and always boot to Hekate or set it to auto boot Atmosphere.
 
View attachment 397190
Alternative DAT0 Point Switch OLED ....
do we have to dig down to the second layer like the Spanish does?
Edit :
yes, second layer. at this point the position that the Spanish uses is better, away from other components.
congratulations anyway, nice community of experts
 
Last edited by LuigiGad,
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do we have to dig down to the second layer like the Spanish does?
Edit :
yes, second layer. at this point the position that the Spanish uses is better, away from other components.
congratulations anyway, nice community of experts
This is no secret since the schematics are all over the web. I'd suggest you go with the back point if you're into this since that one has clear area.
 

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This is no secret since the schematics are all over the web. I'd suggest you go with the back point if you're into this since that one has clear area.
Where can i find some videos with this technique?
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V1 , 16.1 HOS , Toshiba emmc
In OFW, as soon if console goes to sleep or the screen is blocked, when turning back on it throws 2002-3539 error.
WHAT THE F

I also noticed when i had the console dissasembled, after shutting down the console from OFW, after around 15 seconds, the chip would turn back on again BY ITSELF and attempt a glitch, resulting in a succes. But nothing on screen. I dont know if this is relevant
 
Last edited by Crung,
Where can i find some videos with this technique?
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V1 , 16.1 HOS , Toshiba emmc
In OFW, as soon if console goes to sleep or the screen is blocked, when turning back on it throws 2002-3539 error.
WHAT THE F

I also noticed when i had the console dissasembled, after shutting down the console from OFW, after around 15 seconds, the chip would turn back on again BY ITSELF and attempt a glitch, resulting in a succes. But nothing on screen. I dont know if this is relevant
If you are sure about your wiring and soldering quality then Try to change/replace the pico/modchip (i solved mine with that).

That last part is expected, all is like that, so nothing to worry.
 
Where can i find some videos with this technique?
Post automatically merged:

V1 , 16.1 HOS , Toshiba emmc
In OFW, as soon if console goes to sleep or the screen is blocked, when turning back on it throws 2002-3539 error.
WHAT THE F

I also noticed when i had the console dissasembled, after shutting down the console from OFW, after around 15 seconds, the chip would turn back on again BY ITSELF and attempt a glitch, resulting in a succes. But nothing on screen. I dont know if this is relevant
V1? 100ohm cmd/dat
 

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