Picofly AIO Thread

[abal1000x]

.

 

[Dee87]

Why not? Joy through the challenge?

Just cause i dont see any sense in buying something i dont need

but also joy threw the challenge i had at the beginning Xd

I once work on quartz crystal resonator.
Everything is always about cost. Its called 'Cost Down'

You'll lose competition, when the competitor only use mosfet, while you use flex which cost 25x higher than using mosfet.

People using picofly not because hwfly is bad. But because of the price. Price do matter.

its not about the cost its more about the waiting time and the reliabilaty, i know a few people who always had some flex cables not work.
i mean u might have some suplieres that have working ones but then u have others where u get issues.

i mean sure they are expensiver but thats not my point.

i dont care about competition i do not offer installs on anything.

i just do it for people i know and the people they know.
more like mouth to mouth advertisment
its not like im making a living on installing modchips orso this is just a side hussle i like to do in my spare time

i just dont use pico just cause its cheap i just like opensource/comunity stuff more then the commercial stuff.
i mean yeah rp2040zero is also commercial , but thats also why i orderd some Dragonflys.
and try to order community made Boards but there hasnt been anyone who offers them yet.

if the Dragonflys work properly my next order will be atleast 50 pcs.

just all together i like supporting the Opensource/Community stuff more then the commercial things.

i know for some people its cause it is a cheap install and they make more money on it but thats not why im using picofly.

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[cgtchy0412]

Here 1 mosfet IRFH3842 to 1 cap.
Glitch after train. <1sec.
View attachment 378474

And this is when i tried it a multiple time, to get the gist of the average glitch time.
View attachment 378480

You like to experiment right?
Please try with 2.72 before the oc.. want to know the difference between 300mhz vs 200mhz.

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[BlueBeans]

Here 1 mosfet IRFH3842 to 1 cap.
Glitch after train. <1sec.
View attachment 378474

And this is when i tried it a multiple time, to get the gist of the average glitch time.
View attachment 378480

Can you kind of explain what's going on in this picture? It looks like D and S are soldered together. And then are you hitting just the top of one cap or the bottom as well?

 

[lightninjay]

Can you kind of explain what's going on in this picture? It looks like D and S are soldered together. And then are you hitting just the top of one cap or the bottom as well?

@abal1000x likes to double back his wires for the Drain to effectively double the capacity of the wire. The Pink is where the capacitor is. Red it looks like he's grounding Source to the APU shield frame, and then Gate goes to RP2040 like normal.

 

[BlueBeans]

@abal1000x likes to double back his wires for the Drain to effectively double the capacity of the wire. The Pink is where the capacitor is. Red it looks like he's grounding Source to the APU shield frame, and then Gate goes to RP2040 like normal.
View attachment 378525

Oh i see! its in a different orientation than i would normally do mine

Post automatically merged: Jun 17, 2023

So i have a question. Now that i have learned how to glitch without using the SDA/SCL wires would it be ok for me to completely redo my OLED? i used 0.1 all the way around and had to use the SDA/SCL wires. Would it be safe to redo it or should i just leave it?

 

[QuiTim]

Oh i see! its in a different orientation than i would normally do mine

Post automatically merged: Jun 17, 2023

So i have a question. Now that i have learned how to glitch without using the SDA/SCL wires would it be ok for me to completely redo my OLED? i used 0.1 all the way around and had to use the SDA/SCL wires. Would it be safe to redo it or should i just leave it?

"if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

 

[Dee87]

@abal1000x likes to double back his wires for the Drain to effectively double the capacity of the wire. The Pink is where the capacitor is. Red it looks like he's grounding Source to the APU shield frame, and then Gate goes to RP2040 like normal.
View attachment 378525

well maybe thats why he get it done with 1 mosfet
guess ill try that the next time i get to soldering Xd

cause i try it again today and it did not work again so i dont know whats going on Xd

 

[BlueBeans]

"if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

well yeah but someone said that one day those 0.1 wires could potentially break and kill the switch

 

[Dee87]

well yeah but someone said that one day those 0.1 wires could potentially break and kill the switch

Well if u use them on MOSFET to apu yeah I would change them.

 

[BlueBeans]

Well if u use them on MOSFET to apu yeah I would change them.

i used 0.1 on everything

 

[Dee87]

i used 0.1 on everything

Then change the ones on MOSFET to apu caps to 0.2mm , 0.1mm might burn through.
The rest u can leave thats no problem

 

[Takezo-San]

can anyone tell me whats wrong with this picture?

Or this reball job?

Only asking because I'm done! Got a value before and after of 594-627 for that Dat0 point with 40awg wire. Put everything back so i can work on the SOC side but just wanted to test by power it on and.......nothing. Not even a god damn charge symbol. Pure dead! To say I was careful with only 10% of the oled mod done is an understatement. Could the reball be shorting. Is it a dead emmc? WHat the flip is going on?

 

[QuiTim]

can anyone tell me whats wrong with this picture?

View attachment 378537

Or this reball job?

View attachment 378538

Only asking because I'm done! Got a value before and after of 594-627 for that Dat0 point with 40awg wire. Put everything back so i can work on the SOC side but just wanted to test by power it on and.......nothing. Not even a god damn charge symbol. Pure dead! To say I was careful with only 10% of the oled mod done is an understatement. Could the reball be shorting. Is it a dead emmc? WHat the flip is going on?

Dumb question but here it goes: is the chip positioned on the right side/corner?
Because otherwise everything looks good

 

[Takezo-San]

Dumb question but here it goes: is the chip positioned on the right side/corner?
Because otherwise everything looks good

Was only so hopeful because I practised with a dead board and the readings were all spot on with that and this. I wouldn't be so mad if I knew what I did wrong!? I even used kapton on all other parts of the pads of of the dat points so little chance of shorting. My assembly and reassembly was super smooth. Heating it back into position was good, snapped into position but im not sure if i went wrong here or its just the oled....not liking being dissasembled!? Honestly hate the Switch

 

[Dee87]

can anyone tell me whats wrong with this picture?

View attachment 378537

Or this reball job?

View attachment 378538

Only asking because I'm done! Got a value before and after of 594-627 for that Dat0 point with 40awg wire. Put everything back so i can work on the SOC side but just wanted to test by power it on and.......nothing. Not even a god damn charge symbol. Pure dead! To say I was careful with only 10% of the oled mod done is an understatement. Could the reball be shorting. Is it a dead emmc? WHat the flip is going on?

I would position the dat0 cable straight
Is u look closer their could be something bringing,
Tha balls look "okay" they kinda look a bit "Crumbly"
If they look like that I would add son more flux and reheat them and slowly let them cool down.

What temperature did u use and for how long?

Post automatically merged: Jun 17, 2023

View attachment 378543
Was only so hopeful because I practised with a dead board and the readings were all spot on with that and this. I wouldn't be so mad if I knew what I did wrong!? I even used kapton on all other parts of the pads of of the dat points so little chance of shorting. My assembly and reassembly was super smooth. Heating it back into position was good, snapped into position but im not sure if i went wrong here or its just the oled....not liking being dissasembled!? Honestly hate the Switch

I don't know if it just the picture but the emmc doesn't seem to see perfectly, it should be kinda the same on the top left and bottum right square.
What reading are u getting?
Also I recommend adding UV mask above the emmc not under so the emmc doesn't sit to high.

After the emmc "floats" in place I always give it a very tiny hit in one corner so I see if sits correct

 

[Takezo-San]

I would position the dat0 cable straight
Is u look closer their could be something bringing,
Tha balls look "okay" they kinda look a bit "Crumbly"
If they look like that I would add son more flux and reheat them and slowly let them cool down.

What temperature did u use and for how long?

used 200 for 1.5mins then upto 300 for 1.5min then 400 for 1min. then backwards after it set itself. But if it was bridging, then why is the reading correct? I did notice that in the picture but it was just some fluff from cleaning. crumbly, maybe, but this is a super zoomed in shot. normal working distance look smooth.

 

[Dee87]

used 200 for 1.5mins then upto 300 for 1.5min then 400 for 1min. then backwards after it set itself. But if it was bridging, then why is the reading correct? I did notice that in the picture but it was just some fluff from cleaning. crumbly, maybe, but this is a super zoomed in shot. normal working distance look smooth.

Mh okay 400 seems a bit high I usually go max 320 for 20 sec if it doesn't move at 300 , but also know someone who goes max heat on it so not that sure if its an issue , thought emmcs do not like heat