Picofly AIO Thread

[abal1000x]

just finished an OLED with pico with 2.73 and flex V2. I did not use the additional resistor. At the moment no problem. If the resistor was needed, shouldn't it be included in the general guide?

Its only optional, its not mandatory. Without it the picofly still works.
Its only for precaution of some scenario which might happened in the future.

When the picofly on, the gpio will be configured as pull down (internal pulldown resistor around 50-80 kOhm)

 

[T4kUM1X]

Hi! I'm sorry if this is a dumb question or if this isn't the right place to ask, but i was wondering, is soldering required for having CFW on a OLED Switch? I never soldered anything at all, so i think i wouldn't want to risk doing it on my own and failing miserably xD Thanks in advance

 

[Nephiel]

just finished an OLED with pico with 2.73 and flex V2. I did not use the additional resistor. At the moment no problem. If the resistor was needed, shouldn't it be included in the general guide?

Its only optional, its not mandatory. Without it the picofly still works.
Its only for precaution of some scenario which might happened in the future.

When the picofly on, the gpio will be configured as pull down (internal pulldown resistor around 50-80 kOhm)

That resistor is only for bare mosfet installs. Most flex cables already include it.

 

[blackheartme]

Hi! I'm sorry if this is a dumb question or if this isn't the right place to ask, but i was wondering, is soldering required for having CFW on a OLED Switch? I never soldered anything at all, so i think i wouldn't want to risk doing it on my own and failing miserably xD Thanks in advance

yes at the moment only using modchip with micro solder requirement, i do recommend to find/ commission it to chip installer / modder near your area better safe than sorry, unless youre willing to learn and risk killing your Switch, its a steep learning curve for beginners.

 

[jmmc]

Anyone knows why in some points tin doesn’t stick? I tried scraping a little bit and same result

 

[cgtchy0412]

Anyone knows why in some points tin doesn’t stick? I tried scraping a little bit and same result

No/Bad flux?, Solder temp not hot enough? bad solder tin wire?

 

[jmmc]

No/Bad flux?, Solder temp not hot enough? bad solder tin wire?

I'll try with another flux, which temp do you recommend? I'm using 350ºC

 

[cgtchy0412]

I'll try with another flux, which temp do you recommend? I'm using 350ºC

That should be enough, put some tin on solder tip just a little, and with flux applied on the board just move the tip around on solder point, a little pushing down on board if necessary, you can see it succeed if the point become silver color instead on yellow.
But seriously, that is the basic technique in soldering right?

 

[jmmc]

That should be enough, put some tin on solder tip just a little, and with flux applied on the board just move the tip around on solder point, a little pushing down on board if necessary, you can see it succeed if the point become silver color instead on yellow.
But seriously, that is the basic technique in soldering right?

Yes, I know how to solder but there was a point that I couldn’t tin hahaha, I just want to know some tips

 

[blackheartme]

Yes, I know how to solder but there was a point that I couldn’t tin hahaha, I just want to know some tips

which one? is it ground on SOC / CPU?

 

[jmmc]

which one? is it ground on SOC / CPU?

Correct hahahaah

 

[abal1000x]

Correct hahahaah

I also failed at 350C, i use 390C and lot of flux. Some people in here said, use 400C.

I won't advise using that point as GND, rather just take it from the shield, much easier.

 

[l7777]

I also failed at 350C, i use 390C and lot of flux. Some people in here said, use 400C.

I won't advise using that point as GND, rather just take it from the shield, much easier.

When soldering with an iron the temperature that gets transferred to the work is controlled by the length of time you place the iron on the work. Many repair technicians run their equipment at max temp but they of course don't place the iron on the work for very long. The idea is to melt the solder and fuse it to the work quickly so you don't transfer a lot of heat to the surrounding things. The other issue with a low temperature is that if the thing your working on has a large thermal mass it can suck too much heat away from the iron tip. You can have a situation where the solder starts to melt, then solidifies to the iron tip. If you panic and then pull, it has a high chance of pulling the pad off the board. If you are patient and wait you have transferred a lot of heat to the surrounding components waiting for the solder to come back up to melting temp.

Same is true for hot air. Your ability to heat things is better controlled by the distance from the work and the air speed than the temp setting on the station.

Personally I use a TS-100 iron and have the temp set at 333. I have not cooked anything yet. If I feel like I need more I can simply hold the front button to push it up to max temp of 400.

 

[abal1000x]

When soldering with an iron the temperature that gets transferred to the work is controlled by the length of time you place the iron on the work. Many repair technicians run their equipment at max temp but they of course don't place the iron on the work for very long. The idea is to melt the solder and fuse it to the work quickly so you don't transfer a lot of heat to the surrounding things. The other issue with a low temperature is that if the thing your working on has a large thermal mass it can suck too much heat away from the iron tip. You can have a situation where the solder starts to melt, then solidifies to the iron tip. If you panic and then pull, it has a high chance of pulling the pad off the board. If you are patient and wait you have transferred a lot of heat to the surrounding components waiting for the solder to come back up to melting temp.

Same is true for hot air. Your ability to heat things is better controlled by the distance from the work and the air speed than the temp setting on the station.

Personally I use a TS-100 iron and have the temp set at 333. I have not cooked anything yet. If I feel like I need more I can simply hold the front button to push it up to max temp of 400.

Those apu's pad are weird, you might try it, to understand our suffering

 

[Hellflame]

Hey there, I just knocked off this cap by accident while obtaining 3.3v, anyone has any idea what is this cap called? Will it prevent the console from booting? i was unable to boot the unit into stock

 

[abal1000x]

Hey there, I just knocked off this cap by accident while obtaining 3.3v, anyone has any idea what is this cap called? Will it prevent the console from booting? i was unable to boot the unit into stock

Its lite right? Theres people in here saying that after those cap gone, the switch still working like usual.

I always advise use the 3.3v in the right. Because there is no component only 2 pad. No risk of component broken by heat, or knocked off.

 

[Hellflame]

Yes it's the lite version, in the right? which one did you mean?

 

[abal1000x]

Yes it's the lite version, in the right? which one did you mean?

Those two pad can be used its connected.

 

[Hellflame]

tx bro will try it later !

 

[l7777]

Those apu's pad are weird, you might try it, to understand our suffering

Knowing the theory of soldering doesn't necessarily make it easy. Then there's the added stress of knowing that you could mess up your device if you don't get it right.

I haven't used the APU pads, but I had my concerns with the CLK point on my OLED. Are the APU pads harder than that?