This is what I prefer as well. Just additionally grinding a small hole in the corner to make a cable way to relieve stress when closing the metal sheet instead of getting pressed with the fan.
This is what I prefer as well. Just additionally grinding a small hole in the corner to make a cable way to relieve stress when closing the metal sheet instead of getting pressed with the fan.
Ok! I gave up on this board. I took the cpu off and will install it into the other board. Will update the result in 30'.
Update: Shit! Maybe i placed the chip the wrong way.
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Update: Shit! Maybe i placed the chip the wrong way.
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Last edited by superxoi,
If life is that easy i would be happy with it. No friend this was not wifi related problem. To be clear , i did not reball for the orange board , i took the cpu off from the orange one,reballed it and installed to a board i thought that could be save (dead cpu board).
Last edited by superxoi,
what about this?:
Also you could try to install picofly, if hekate will load its UI, then all you PMIC's and DDR is not dead.
Last edited by _kedo_,
Some say it is not paired to the cpu so i haven't changed that ic yet. I have checked the pmic , it seem to be ok (no crack, no evidence of work on it) . there was a missing pad on the missing cpu board but i don't think it a funtional one so i ignored it.
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Found cut traces near the bottom ram maybe this one is causing the bluescreen
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Last edited by superxoi,
I doubt that emmc married.
Many people modified that successfully.
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I remember someone said in this thread long time ago, they have cut traces on cpu to dram line, caused when he opened the shield and got blue or blackscreen kind of forgot.
Hey yall, I tried installing picofly 2040 on my oled and I kept getting the *== error then it booted to ofw. I used the fpcb cable and the voltages read correctly and so I unsoldered the D point. Doesn’t want to boot anymore. I desoldered everything and nothing. I made sure the mod chip threw other codes by unsoldering the B wire and C wire. But anyway here’s a pic. Should I diode test something? D still measures correctly.
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Last edited by DumbSolder,
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Are you sure your red circled via point still have connection to the rest of the red trace? Measure the continuity if you have sharp prob lead
Yup the dot reads 535
I also noticed that if I prob the trace line not the via, it’s 619. Would that cause the switch to not boot up at all? Regardless if the mod chip is on?
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Last edited by DumbSolder,
Maybe useful for repairs in general :
The user uSoldering (https://gbatemp.net/members/usoldering.691480/) posted the boardview files for a Switch Lite to this thread :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/reverse-engineering-a-switch-lite-boardview.648483/
The user uSoldering (https://gbatemp.net/members/usoldering.691480/) posted the boardview files for a Switch Lite to this thread :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/reverse-engineering-a-switch-lite-boardview.648483/
It is, at least somewhat. The Tegra checks for the correct partition UUID. Thankfully it doesn't check for eMMC serial number/make though, therefore the GUID on a new eMMC can be overwritten with the old value.
What's the point of the trinket if pico fly is much easier install? I've never installed a trinket before so I would like to know the benefit.
It is. You have to make a blob between the trace and the via as my picture below i took from a case i fixed or run a wire connecting them.
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Ah okay, I’ll try that. I ordered a microscope and solder mask. I should’ve done that in the beginning lmao. I’ll update you once I finish.
Hi
you cutted the CLK point. Naturally the Switch wont power on or boot. I agree with @jkyoho, you need to rebuild via. Be very careful not to destroy the litle piece of trace that went under the Tegra CPU. It´s your last chance because if you fail to solder a thin wire from via to trace after that only removing the CPU to get into CLK which becomes a more accomplished task.
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That is a very old photo from the time in which there was no Picofly or whatever. I used to install it on V1 to emulate RCM without the need to use a jig and to inject payload into SDA and SCL. it worked very well
Last edited by Viktorsilva,
Thank, do you recommend I do the wire or the blob for the sake of testing? I am waiting on my solder mask and microscope before I do anything
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