Is there any other possible reason when the error is *== ? I tried to replace the cmd line wire, rework on it but giving the same error.
The device can boot on ofw though. Its a Lite.
The device can boot on ofw though. Its a Lite.
100 ohm dat0 resistor? try higher resistor value on dat0Is there any other possible reason when the error is *== ? I tried to replace the cmd line wire, rework on it but giving the same error.
The device can boot on ofw though. Its a Lite.
I didn't try using 100ohm on dat0 yet. I tried on cmd line though same output. Let me make 100ohm for dat0.100 ohm dat0 resistor? try higher resistor value on dat0
That same error took me 1 hour and turned out it was the chip itself.I didn't try using 100ohm on dat0 yet. I tried on cmd line though same output. Let me make 100ohm for dat0.
I will consider the chip as well thank you for the input.That same error took me 1 hours and turned out it was the chip itself.
what resistor on dat0 from the chip/rp2040? change it to 100 ohm or higherI'd appreciate any intake on this:
I Modded an OLED with reballing and the back mosfet method. I got a glitch and was able to dump a full backup on hekate. eMMc info intact.
The issue is that it does not boot to OFW. I get the Nintendo logo then black screen. No Switch logo. It's also a black screen on CFW.
I reballed again, same issue. All readings are fine.
It boots normally when the modchip is removed.
It's a weird issue, I haven't got anything like it.
You really are the real deal. Thanks. I'm used to adding a resistor when I get "slow emmc" error, this was a new learning curve for me. Thanks again.what resistor on dat0 from the chip/rp2040? change it to 100 ohm or higher
Turns out it was my mistake that made it a bad chip upon inspection I notice that I knocked off one of the 47ohm resistor on the tiny rp2040. Silly me. Thank you!That same error took me 1 hour and turned out it was the chip itself.
try your selfYesterday I've watched a vid on YT, where the dude was saying most of the time, the caps are used in electronic as filter, to reduce the noise... So my question is, could I use caps on picofly instead of the 47 ohm resistors??
I am guessing that the resistors are used also to reduce noise, since 47 ohm is too low to reduce current
I am asking just because of curiosity, I have no knowledge about engineering an electronic board or similar
Thank youIt's a capacitor for the LDO which is only used when you use the usb port. If your chip is flashed already you're good
Come on bro u been long enough here to know the answer to that XdYou really are the real deal. Thanks. I'm used to adding a resistor when I get "slow emmc" error, this was a new learning curve for me. Thanks again.
I only have a meager understanding of how this stuff works, but I'd advise not to try that with any board you care about. Resistors and capacitors are quite different things.Yesterday I've watched a vid on YT, where the dude was saying most of the time, the caps are used in electronic as filter, to reduce the noise... So my question is, could I use caps on picofly instead of the 47 ohm resistors??
I am guessing that the resistors are used also to reduce noise, since 47 ohm is too low to reduce current
I am asking just because of curiosity, I have no knowledge about engineering an electronic board or similar
check these 2 areaI have already made a new thread but no one answer yet so pardon me for trying my luck here. i have received an oled switch which can not detect the right joycon. Have used another joycon and changed the rail even changed the socket in vain. I measured all the resistor surrounding the socket but it normal value too. Do anyone happend to solve this problem before please enlighten me. Thank in advance.
Check for a cut trace right by the latch of the metal shield. It happens when you pry too hard, ask me how I know lol. I'll reply to your post.I have already made a new thread but no one answer yet so pardon me for trying my luck here. i have received an oled switch which can not detect the right joycon. Have used another joycon and changed the rail even changed the socket in vain. I measured all the resistor surrounding the socket but it normal value too. Do anyone happend to solve this problem before please enlighten me. Thank in advance.
I have already checked the area in your 2nd pic. I will check the first pic area now. Thank for your help.check these 2 area
Some time the right joycon could connect but no sound no indicator then disconnected again. It so weird. I will check for cut traces too? Thank.Check for a cut trace right by the latch of the metal shield. It happens when you pry too hard, ask me how I know lol. I'll reply to your post.
I had the EXACT same symptoms, sometimes worked with no animation. Drove me crazy checking everything. Only fixed it months later when someone posted the solution on another forum.Some time the right joycon could connect but no sound no indicator then disconnected again. It so weird. I will check for cut traces too? Thank.
Fixed. Thank you bro. It was exactly as you described.Check for a cut trace right by the latch of the metal shield. It happens when you pry too hard, ask me how I know lol. I'll reply to your post.