Exactly. The blue long blink would beYou mean something like this?? Including the blue flashing, I get in total 7 blinks
= USB flashing done
and the 6 blinks are 3 attempts of
** RST not connected
Exactly. The blue long blink would beYou mean something like this?? Including the blue flashing, I get in total 7 blinks
All those marks look like damage to me, hard to tell from the picture though... is there any gold left under those scratches?I've installed a picofly on an OLED, everything works fine except for the right joycon rail. During the assembly I forgot that the black door was closed and I shove the flex cable insiside the port without noticing it (battery wasn't plugged in). The port, rail and the flex cables seems to be fine, I don't see any physical damage or bent pins... Any idea where to look for the error??
Hey i got curious nowI just want to let you know that if you have a v1 flex and you need to use it in a v2, you can do it but you have to use the i2c undervolt hack for it to be completely stable, since a few days ago I made a v2 console and everything is fine although after The 3 turned on, the chip only gave an error (==*) with the i2c undervolt hack everything improved
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You should try a little amount of conductive paint over the scratchesAll those marks look like damage to me, hard to tell from the picture though... is there any gold left under those scratches?
Something like this for V2-to-V1Hey i got curious now
You said V1 flex can work on a V2 board
So, do v2 flex can work on a v1 board somehow?
Also may i ask, where i can find more info about the i2c undervolt?
Sorry for bothering you but you give some hope while im waiting an aliexpress v1 flex for my v1 board
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You should try a little amount of conductive paint over the scratches
I agree about the picture seems to show the scratches are deep and there is no gold plating left
You're right, there is none, I'll have to tin themAll those marks look like damage to me, hard to tell from the picture though... is there any gold left under those scratches?
I've tried with a rail from v1, it wasn't working either, I don't know if they're compatibleNo, you can flatten it, just straighten the bend where the cable passes throughWorking on a switch lite and using a flex cable. It appears to be necessary to cut the CPU shield in order to get the top of the flex cable out without putting pressure on it.
Can somebody confirm this?
Further, I'm doing a V1 and a lite. Will other cuts be required to any other shielding? I'm seeing mixed info.
I used the advanced V1 flexes from the first wave of the SX Core easily on all models, including OLEDHey i got curious now
You said V1 flex can work on a V2 board
So, do v2 flex can work on a v1 board somehow?
Also may i ask, where i can find more info about the i2c undervolt?
Sorry for bothering you but you give some hope while im waiting an aliexpress v1 flex for my v1 board
Post automatically merged:
You should try a little amount of conductive paint over the scratches
I agree about the picture seems to show the scratches are deep and there is no gold plating left
hi. i just installed the modchip i bought on ali. but it seems to be dead?? it always launches into the rp2040 bootloader. when i flash it, it mounts it self seconds later as a drive again. and the led istn blinking. any ideas?
I've tinned the flex, but no luck.All those marks look like damage to me, hard to tell from the picture though... is there any gold left under those scratches?
I also jiggled the joycon a lil bit, but nothing happens.hi. i just installed the modchip i bought on ali. but it seems to be dead?? it always launches into the rp2040 bootloader. when i flash it, it mounts it self seconds later as a drive again. and the led istn blinking. any ideas?