Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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i have just gotten a bad batch of dat0 adapter now. these chinese seller are tricky one. first i bought 15 they shipped me the good one this time i bought 50 and i got this shitty ones. i will rely on reballing waiting for another batch.
I got a better result when I cut the contact point into triangular shape like in the photo shown. I don't have to worry about the left solder ball as it is not connected anywhere and can be bridge.

never got loose even once even after stress testing also. You can try. :)

1702325444259.png


1702325202789.png
 
I got a better result when I cut the contact point into triangular shape like in the photo shown. I don't have to worry about the left solder ball as it is not connected anywhere and can be bridge.

never got loose even once even after stress testing also. You can try. :)

View attachment 408335

View attachment 408334
These look good to me no need to modify anything. I've long tested these adapters and they were never the problem whenever an issue appears. For me it was always the flux causing problems so I stopped using it near the chip and I never had complains ever since.
 
These look good to me no need to modify anything. I've long tested these adapters and they were never the problem whenever an issue appears. For me it was always the flux causing problems so I stopped using it near the chip and I never had complains ever since.
I can agree about the flux, I recently stopped using nearby the chip as well.

Unfortunately for the dat0 adapter I had with me were all poorly made, an old design with ring/c shape cut instead of U cut. So I had to trim it off.
 
Last edited by psycho-neon,
For me it was always the flux causing problems so I stopped using it near the chip and I never had complains ever since.
Not all flux is created equal and some flux does even conduct electricity.
This was a nice video about it where they did some conductance tests.

So cleaning it does matter.
Some repair shops do have nice equipment and fluids for that.
But with a lack of that, I try not to go wild with the amount of flux and clean it off with
 
I got a better result when I cut the contact point into triangular shape like in the photo shown. I don't have to worry about the left solder ball as it is not connected anywhere and can be bridge.

never got loose even once even after stress testing also. You can try. :)

View attachment 408335

View attachment 408334
i will try it on another oled. i don't want to waste this batch either. thank you
 
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i will try it on another oled. i don't want to waste this batch either. thank you
Good luck! I have plenty of crappy adapters as well, and experimented many of it til I got the perfect fitting.

Kamikaze on the other hand is the thing I don't wanna risk. I tried once, almost cut a line. So maybe, never again for now. 😅
 
Not all flux is created equal and some flux does even conduct electricity.
This was a nice video about it where they did some conductance tests.

So cleaning it does matter.
Some repair shops do have nice equipment and fluids for that.
But with a lack of that, I try not to go wild with the amount of flux and clean it off with

Hi all, but how can I clean the flux on reballing?
Greetz,
Tom
 
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Isopropanol Spray in aerosol can.

Spray it between chip and pcb, hold it vertical so the isopropanol is comming out on the other side.

Wipe it with papper and then use a hairdryer to evaporate the remaning isopropanol.
 
what component is this, what is its value...I ended up taking it off and it came loose.
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Switch lite
 

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Last edited by Alanamaro,
Having a problem. Just now i replaced the screen socket on a hacked switch that i broke accidentally, problem is that its it has a super green tint, the display and i would like to know if that was because i did screen connector fix wrong or is it the oled panel itself thats messed up. Thanks!

https://media.discordapp.net/attach...c123832bbc92fda1037209b1bbc908c9e9527495b139&
More people complain about this issue with OLED versions :
https://www.resetera.com/threads/di...r-screen-is-borked-heres-how-to-check.714106/
 
Trying the single mosfet again. Is this how it is supposed to look? When I put it all together my error code was ==*. Drain and Source are grounded but not touching. Is that right?
 

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Trying the single mosfet again. Is this how it is supposed to look? When I put it all together my error code was ==*. Drain and Source are grounded but not touching. Is that right?
This is the wire I’m using
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drain should have been around 8-14 ohm. change your mosfet
Drain has 14ohm
 

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Wierd. Your error code indicates a failure mosfet but you have a good reading. Maybe check it for a few time to rule out if it is stable or not.
What do you mean? Like turn it on and off checking the error code? I can get two to work with the mosfets I have but never 1. Could the wiring be too thin?
 

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