Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[BlueBeans]

Yep, you got me , but I figured it out. Here you go:

Yep, you got me , but I figured it out. Here you go:

I'm looking for the CPU flex cable.

Post automatically merged: Dec 10, 2023

Did you find them?? I'm also looking for sda/scl on v1

Post automatically merged: Dec 9, 2023

Were you able to find them??

Here’s my install on a V1.

 

[LuigiGad]

Based on what happened on the OLED that I worked on and which showed a purple screen with failed initialization of the emmc, fortunately resolved with the replacement of the resistor, in the total absence of damage to the resistor, what happened? has it changed value? what could it have caused?

 

[cilione]

Did you find them?? I'm also looking for sda/scl on v1

Post automatically merged: Dec 9, 2023

Were you able to find them??

No easy access compared to V2 IIRC.

Hi, what do you mean by THIS firmware?

I went to the first post of this thread but couldn't find any attachments?

 

[psycho-neon]

I'm looking for the CPU flex cable.

Post automatically merged: Dec 10, 2023

Here’s my install on a V1.

Isn't your CPU line too thick? @.@ I think that heatpipe contact will be an issue. You can use 36AWG for cpu line. It works fine.

 

[BlueBeans]

Isn't your CPU line too thick? @.@ I think that heatpipe contact will be an issue. You can use 36AWG for cpu line. It works fine.

Nope. Works perfectly. Haven’t had a problem yet.

 

[superxoi]

Based on what happened on the OLED that I worked on and which showed a purple screen with failed initialization of the emmc, fortunately resolved with the replacement of the resistor, in the total absence of damage to the resistor, what happened? has it changed value? what could it have caused?

You heated that resistor too much it not function well anymore. I don't know which tip you was using. Using small tip for small resistor is recommended. Do it quickly and not linger on it too long.

 

[Vigintiduo]

Hi, this pad here is an alternate point for 3.3v on OLED, right?
Is there any downside to using it instead of soldering to the capacitor, other than the wire being like 5mm longer?
I got kinda unlucky (and too stubborn) on the last OLED and ended up damaging the IC next to the capacitors. So I'd love to avoid them now

 

[BlueBeans]

Hi, this pad here is an alternate point for 3.3v on OLED, right?
Is there any downside to using it instead of soldering to the capacitor, other than the wire being like 5mm longer?
I got kinda unlucky (and too stubborn) on the last OLED and ended up damaging the IC next to the capacitors. So I'd love to avoid them now

I’ve never seen that used as the 3.3v but you can use either one of those caps for 3.3v I believe.

 

[psycho-neon]

Hi, this pad here is an alternate point for 3.3v on OLED, right?
Is there any downside to using it instead of soldering to the capacitor, other than the wire being like 5mm longer?
I got kinda unlucky (and too stubborn) on the last OLED and ended up damaging the IC next to the capacitors. So I'd love to avoid them now

That looks like a ground point only. Double check with multimeter and make sure.

 

[abal1000x]

Hi, this pad here is an alternate point for 3.3v on OLED, right?
Is there any downside to using it instead of soldering to the capacitor, other than the wire being like 5mm longer?
I got kinda unlucky (and too stubborn) on the last OLED and ended up damaging the IC next to the capacitors. So I'd love to avoid them now

I've use that point, and its the best point for oled back pcb 3.3V.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10266604

Heres the whole 3.3V on oled back pcb.
View attachment 408258

Front Pcb
View attachment 408259

 

[LuigiGad]

You heated that resistor too much it not function well anymore. I don't know which tip you was using. Using small tip for small resistor is recommended. Do it quickly and not linger on it too long.

no, I totally exclude it, I've made lots of OLEDs and I'm very light at soldering. To exclude.

 

[Bradle6]

Hi, this pad here is an alternate point for 3.3v on OLED, right?
Is there any downside to using it instead of soldering to the capacitor, other than the wire being like 5mm longer?
I got kinda unlucky (and too stubborn) on the last OLED and ended up damaging the IC next to the capacitors. So I'd love to avoid them now

What is that ic for. As maybe I did that because the switch works but no touchscreen on the oled and I can't find the problem

 

[psycho-neon]

Another OLED done! Got the hang of using the dat0 adapter on how to properly anchor it without resorting to kamikaze method.

 

[Vigintiduo]

I've use that point, and its the best point for oled back pcb 3.3V.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10266604

Heres the whole 3.3V on oled back pcb.
View attachment 408258

Front Pcb
View attachment 408259

Thank you for all the insight as usual! I might just use that point even though I'm going for a front install. I'm still on the trauma from the previous unlucky experience lol. Hopefully the wire running just a bit longer won't be an issue

What is that ic for. As maybe I did that because the switch works but no touchscreen on the oled and I can't find the problem

It's a buck boost, so I doubt it. You should probably check somewhere else on the board. I'm kinda new to oleds so I don't know if the touch screen is still together with the cartridge reader

 

[superxoi]

Another OLED done! Got the hang of using the dat0 adapter on how to properly anchor it without resorting to kamikaze method. View attachment 408268

i have just gotten a bad batch of dat0 adapter now. these chinese seller are tricky one. first i bought 15 they shipped me the good one this time i bought 50 and i got this shitty ones. i will rely on reballing waiting for another batch.

 

[BlueBeans]

What is that ic for. As maybe I did that because the switch works but no touchscreen on the oled and I can't find the problem

I’ve messed it up before as well. This is what I replaced it with.

https://ro.mouser.com/ProductDetail...d/MAX77801EWP+T?qs=wA9DIA%2B20CRfNUUj4vr4lA==

 

[Myst0gan]

Post your work. I have a v1 here I need to do and I’ll post my work as well. Are you using a flex cable or mosfets?

Post automatically merged: Dec 10, 2023

I saw this one as well but there are no gerber files

I gave up, it could be the r2040. I'll test them on the next console that I get. I've modded a switch lite last week, using the rp2040 from the same batch that I've ordered from Ali and it worked like a charm... So I was thought others are fine too

Im using the 3.3v from the nand. Never had issue with it, already modded 8nos of v1/v2 with that setup.

The only thing I take from the board was ground and the cpu, the rest on nand. Your case is different for sure. Maybe you bridge something else.

How do you do that?? I had hell of a time just to connect a wire from nand to the broken pad on the board

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

Yes, I do all of mine with just one

why do some install with 2 mosfet if 1 works? What is the difference?

 

[BlueBeans]

why do some install with 2 mosfet if 1 works? What is the difference?

Ive never been able to get mine to work with 1 fet. Its been awhile though. Might have to give it a try again.

 

[Vigintiduo]

I finished installing picofly on my OLED, but I'm getting ** RST not connected, while it's definitely there. Also got black screen.
After desoldering the rp2040, I can safely boot into ofw, so there's no actual damage.
I went kamikaze and with the 3.3v point on the back.
I see that sometimes the RST error is caused by the 3.3v line, but I got the right one, albeit with longer wires. It only turns on when I press the power button.
Diode readings are fine on every line, however with the rp2040 installed, I can't even hear the soft "whirring" sound that comes from the console, meaning it's probably stuck in some really early boot phase.
What's the best way to troubleshoot this?