Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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So, I was thinking, would this approach work for CLK?
I used a USB board with emmc (which I bought for practice) and covered the contacts which are NC anyways.
One could also reball the emmc with solder balls and just exclude those 2 balls as well.
What do you think?
Yes, should work if you can get the wire to stay in place while attaching emmc. I've been thinking of doing the same, with cmd as well. Note that the RFU balls ("Reserved for Future Use") are unconnected on the switch and can be used/skipped/whatever just like the NC balls
 
Yes, should work if you can get the wire to stay in place while attaching emmc. I've been thinking of doing the same, with cmd as well. Note that the RFU balls ("Reserved for Future Use") are unconnected on the switch and can be used/skipped/whatever just like the NC balls
Well thats even better (the RFU), the whole line is surrounded by the contacts not in use.
And the copper pad/wire is secured with transparent uv glue so it should stay put (I just used the green uv mask on pads so it's better visible in photos).
I guess I will give it a go on the next oled that I get my hands on.
CMD seems too risky for me right now, I don't know, maybe like this (photo) would be ok...
Cheers
 

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Last edited by QuiTim,
Trick for small smd: Tin both pads with solder and heat up both pads with blade type iron(or whatever suite you best) then move the resistor/cap in pace. Component would go in pace by surface tension if both pad hot enough.

I find it easier with hot air , but everybody has their methods, try both and see what fits u the best
 
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So, I was thinking, would this approach work for CLK?
I used a USB board with emmc (which I bought for practice) and covered the contacts which are NC anyways.
One could also reball the emmc with solder balls and just exclude those 2 balls as well.
What do you think?
Sorry, unlreated, but what's the USB board that you're practicing on? I'm buying Andriod boxes for practice but they have 221 BGA, not 153. Would love to know what you're using.
Post automatically merged:

Oh no, I think the pcb adapter already has all the jumper points set. I was thinking of just doing the clk "manualy" same as dat0.
(Pictures of what I was using as demo)
Never mind got it Thanks. Did you use this module to read/write Switches' eMMC chips?
 
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So, I was thinking, would this approach work for CLK?
I used a USB board with emmc (which I bought for practice) and covered the contacts which are NC anyways.
One could also reball the emmc with solder balls and just exclude those 2 balls as well.
What do you think?
I think its working.
But i don't know whether the reball is possible. Not yet experience it.

I made the v2 green adapter using those nc, the same idea.
View attachment 388934
Still in delivery :D
 
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Yes and all version have the same price !!! i think it work with rp2040 fw...
We don't know.
Theres no diagram, or information on it.

Since the firmware open source you need to check to their github, maybe they customize it.
Or you might ask to the seller whether the board can use the original firmware or not.
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Yes and all version have the same price !!! i think it work with rp2040 fw...
As a reasearcher i hope they modify it somehow.
Something like revising the electronic design, or the firmware into a better one.
So far i analyize their design are clever.

Still one major thing that no one still not yet solve is the random 'long glitch' (>5sec) for mariko processor. Thats not happening with the erista version of switch. That still bugging my mind. But its not a crucial one, at least the glitch eventually still happened.
 
We don't know.
Theres no diagram, or information on it.

Since the firmware open source you need to check to their github, maybe they customize it.
Or you might ask to the seller whether the board can use the original firmware or not.
Post automatically merged:


As a reasearcher i hope they modify it somehow.
Something like revising the electronic design, or the firmware into a better one.
So far i analyize their design are clever.

Still one major thing that no one still not yet solve is the random 'long glitch' (>5sec) for mariko processor. Thats not happening with the erista version of switch. That still bugging my mind. But its not a crucial one, at least the glitch eventually still happened.
Someone flash the chip with the rp fw and it work...

and i think it's a same chip from here
 
I wonder what's new about it, maybe they've finally figured out that they should be using 100 ohm for dat0/cmd
The shipping is 5 euros, so the total cost is about 12-13 euros, which is in line with all the other rp2040 based hwflys. I doubt they changed much in regards to the resistors.
Of course the cost goes down if you buy in bulk, to around 9 euros.
 
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The shipping is 5 euros, so the total cost is about 12-13 euros, which is in line with all the other rp2040 based hwflys. I doubt they changed much in regards to the resistors.
Of course the cost goes down if you buy in bulk, to around 9 euros.
Compare to basic picofly of course still cheaper picofly.

But if you made the quality such as that hwfly pcb yourself, for example to jlcpcb you will get the similar price, even more expensive. Those black mask is expensive. That flex is expensive. That fpc/ppc for the emmc also expensive. Its reasonable price if its around $10-15. The cost production could be around $7-9.
 
Compare to basic picofly of course still cheaper picofly.

But if you made the quality such as that hwfly pcb yourself, for example to jlcpcb you will get the similar price, even more expensive. Those black mask is expensive. That flex is expensive. That fpc/ppc for the emmc also expensive. Its reasonable price if its around $10-15. The cost production could be around $7-9.
Oh, for sure the price is reasonable. It's really worth it if you have a lot of consoles to mod, since it's a lot simpler to install.
Also I am pretty sure the price is a lot lower, since it's made in china with questionable QC and worker protection/compensation.
 

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