Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[vittorio]

I’ve just received the “New” DAT0 adapter. They look like the “good” ones, am I right?

Can send link

 

[QuiTim]

I’ve just received the “New” DAT0 adapter. They look like the “good” ones, am I right?

Yep, these look good. Just dont push too hard on them since the contact point looks a bit long and might bend sideways if alot of pressure is put to it.

 

[jmmc]

Can send link

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJW9nSN

 

[jkyoho]

@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the diagram for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.

View attachment 380935
DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:

View attachment 380940

points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):

View attachment 380939View attachment 380936

edit: while I have the photoshop file open, here is a diagram for how I wired my lite install as well. this one is far more practical and I have seen a couple other people do it since my first post, so it would be fun to see more home button lights moving forward

View attachment 380957

Very nice, thank you for your efforts and detail diagrams.
And just did test on my v2 with rp2040zero led. The led is small enough no need to cut the cushion.

For v2 board, JRST/pin6 can be solder on the resistor from picture blow.

Spoiler: v2/MARIKO pin6 location

 

[HackMan37]

@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the diagram for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.

View attachment 380935
DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:

View attachment 380940

points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):

View attachment 380939View attachment 380936

edit: while I have the photoshop file open, here is a diagram for how I wired my lite install as well. this one is far more practical and I have seen a couple other people do it since my first post, so it would be fun to see more home button lights moving forward

View attachment 380957

Can we use the official led? since the color doesn't matter, it's just long or short led pulse, no?

 

[jkyoho]

Can we use the official led? since the color doesn't matter, it's just long or short led, no?

No, unfortunately. I believe original LED from lite or right joycon is single white light LED.

 

[LogicalMadness]

What is your opinion if the error code is throws to the audio speaker.
Since speaker exist on every tipe of switch?

Long and short sounds using the Switch's existing speaker(s)? I LOVE the idea.

Then, no matter how long it takes to glitch, and if you can't see the LED, the user can hear a startup chime too.

Post automatically merged: Jun 30, 2023

i'm doing all my installs with 100 ohm resistors for dat0/cmd and 47 ohm for clk. haven't had any ofw problems with any switch yet.

I recently got my 1st slow emmc and it's a SUPER bummer to basically finish the Switch and then go back and change\add resistors. Your posts about ONLY using 100\100\47 resistor sets are one of the few remaining reasons I continue to read the PFly threads.

I will now be doing all my installs the same way.

 

[Elpoep]

i'm doing all my installs with 100 ohm resistors for dat0/cmd and 47 ohm for clk. haven't had any ofw problems with any switch yet.

As the dat0 is only for OLED, do you use the 100 ohm resistor for the v1, v2 and lite as well?

 

[QuiTim]

As the dat0 is only for OLED, do you use the 100 ohm resistor for the v1, v2 and lite as well?

You need dat0 for all models. Oled just happens to be extra pain in the a§ to get to

 

[Elpoep]

You need dat0 for all models. Oled just happens to be extra pain in the a§ to get to

Apologies, yes, I didn't add the word adapter for the dat0.

So, my even with out a dat0 adapter its advised to use 100 ohm resistor?

 

[HackMan37]

Apologies, yes, I didn't add the word adapter for the dat0.

So, my even with out a dat0 adapter its advised to use 100 ohm resistor?

The adaptor it's just for soldering things, so yes, you need the resistor or design an adaptor that includes it.

 

[Dlacica]

My third oled with rp2040

 

[QuiTim]

Apologies, yes, I didn't add the word adapter for the dat0.

So, my even with out a dat0 adapter its advised to use 100 ohm resistor?

Yes, resistors need to be added on all installations. And after a few months and alot of people doing this mod it seems that it is better to use 100ohm on dat0 and cmd and leave the same 47ohm on clk.
I used 47 on all 3 point in all my installations and I only needed to add second 47ohm (94ohm in total) to dat0 once in an upatched V1.
But I will use 100ohm in any future installs just to see what happens.

 

[Takezo-San]

Look at this POS:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1500188493/mail-in-mod-service-for-oled-v1-v2-lite?click_key=816a8141040b903c5b9f744a8ee4bae922cf05d7:1500188493&click_sum=578b89d8&ref=shop_home_feat_3

"Kindly note that there are a few vendors on Etsy who offer a similar service at a lower cost. Their approach involves using a low-cost PR2040 board and tampering with the EMMC of your Switch. It is important to note that if Nintendo releases an update to combat copyright infringement, your Switch may become permanently unusable. On the other hand, the mod we use is safe and reversible. We can easily undo the mod if Nintendo introduces an update to prevent it."

WTF! This is the same seller that @lightninjay highlighted a week or so back about selling rp2040 with resistors and usb removed for £30. What a POS (From England).

 

[deeps]

47ohm (92ohm in total)

the math police is gonna write you a ticket for this

 

[linuxares]

Look at this POS:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1500188493/mail-in-mod-service-for-oled-v1-v2-lite?click_key=816a8141040b903c5b9f744a8ee4bae922cf05d7:1500188493&click_sum=578b89d8&ref=shop_home_feat_3

"Kindly note that there are a few vendors on Etsy who offer a similar service at a lower cost. Their approach involves using a low-cost PR2040 board and tampering with the EMMC of your Switch. It is important to note that if Nintendo releases an update to combat copyright infringement, your Switch may become permanently unusable. On the other hand, the mod we use is safe and reversible. We can easily undo the mod if Nintendo introduces an update to prevent it."

WTF! This is the same seller that @lightninjay highlighted a week or so back about selling rp2040 with resistors and usb removed for £30. What a POS (From England).

What a big piece of bullshit xD

 

[Elpoep]

Yes, resistors need to be added on all installations. And after a few months and alot of people doing this mod it seems that it is better to use 100ohm on dat0 and cmd and leave the same 47ohm on clk.
I used 47 on all 3 point in all my installations and I only needed to add second 47ohm (92ohm in total) to dat0 once in an upatched V1.
But I will use 100ohm in any future installs just to see what happens.

LOL... I know the resistors need to be used on the install. I was asking, as you chimed in to my quoted question to another member, regarding using the 100 ohm on the dat0 and CLK. My question was specifically for the OLED because its a little different and requires the dat0 adapter. But, it seems like you answered my question -- I'll be using 100 ohm resistors for the dat0 and CLK and the 47 ohm other connections requiring a resistor on any version I mod.

Thanks for your help.

 

[QuiTim]

the math police is gonna write you a ticket for this

Hahahahhaha damn right they are, and a well deserved one. Better correct this one before everyone starts asking about my "secret" 92ohm setup

 

[lightninjay]

Look at this POS:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1500188493/mail-in-mod-service-for-oled-v1-v2-lite?click_key=816a8141040b903c5b9f744a8ee4bae922cf05d7:1500188493&click_sum=578b89d8&ref=shop_home_feat_3

"Kindly note that there are a few vendors on Etsy who offer a similar service at a lower cost. Their approach involves using a low-cost PR2040 board and tampering with the EMMC of your Switch. It is important to note that if Nintendo releases an update to combat copyright infringement, your Switch may become permanently unusable. On the other hand, the mod we use is safe and reversible. We can easily undo the mod if Nintendo introduces an update to prevent it."

WTF! This is the same seller that @lightninjay highlighted a week or so back about selling rp2040 with resistors and usb removed for £30. What a POS (From England).

What a chuckleF*$&, they even used the graphic I made for all three switches in the guide, ripped it straight from the PDF, font and all.

What a P.O.S.

Wtf do they think ANY of these mods are doing? Every single one of these kinds of mods (HWFLY, Instinct, Picofly) rely on modifying a portion of the eMMC to be able to boot unsigned code.

 

[deeps]

I'll be using 100 ohm resistors for the dat0 and CLK and the 47 ohm other connections requiring a resistor on any version I mod.

not quite right, so to clarify:

dat0 - 100 ohm
cmd - 100 ohm
clk - 47 ohm