Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[LogicalMadness]

The purpose is rather limited on v1/v2/oled though, since you can see the chip led by simply looking at the switch from the bottom. It's not like you really need it in your face on every boot. It makes way more sense on the lite since the led normally isn't visible when the rp2040 is mounted on top of the emmc.

Imo, the LED is only for troubleshooting, I don't care to see it unless something is wrong. In which case, I'd have to open it up anyway, so...

 

[lightninjay]

Imo, the LED is only for troubleshooting, I don't care to see it unless something is wrong. In which case, I'd have to open it up anyway, so...

But RGB's give you at least five more horsepowers, pretty blinkenlights go brrrrrrr

 

[deeps]

Imo, the LED is only for troubleshooting, I don't care to see it unless something is wrong. In which case, I'd have to open it up anyway, so...

It looks pretty neat though

 

[bilalhassan341]

Question: Just thinking if we change to code to output the led signals to pinout. The rp2040 has many unused pins which is not needed now. Can we use it as led pins so we can add our own rgb led by soldering to those pins for error codes.

Edit: How about rgb mod for the picofly
I also not seen or read the code yet for the picofly.

 

[JaRocker]

Question: Just thinking if we change to code to output the led signals to pinout. The rp2040 has many unused pins which is not needed now. Can we use it as led pins so we can add our own rgb led by soldering to those pins for error codes.

Edit: How about rgb mod for the picofly
I also not seen or read the code yet for the picofly.

you do not need to remove the RGB led to do the mod I did it wouldn't remove the led from the RP2040 I just added an extra one that I had to the home button and just the DI point on the PR2040 and both RDL LED Work

 

[bilalhassan341]

you do not need to remove the RGB led to do the mod I did it wouldn't remove the led from the RP2040 I just added an extra one that I had to the home button and just the DI point on the PR2040 and both RDL LED Work

Ik but it is easy to solder to pinouts.

 

[cicci084]

Hi guys.
A freshly made oled switch with reball.
I wanted to ask, by putting a 1k ohm resistor between CPU point on the rp2040 and ground, will I have additional battery draw?

 

[deeps]

Hi guys.
A freshly made oled switch with reball.
I wanted to ask, by putting a 1k ohm resistor between CPU point on the rp2040 and ground, will I have additional battery draw?

no, and there's no point in doing that. The idea with putting a resistor between G and gnd is to prevent G from floating in case the wire is disconnected, because float might activate the mosfet and burn it. If the wire is connected to the rp2040 it won't be floating so it does not add any value to put the resistor on the rp2040 side

 

[abal1000x]

Proof Of Concept (POC)

This is DANGEROUS, still in a initial state. Don't replicate this experiment, without understanding the risk.

Glitching without soldering mosfet to the SoC nvidia but to the VDD_1V lines from the PMIC Max77620

I use a broken lcd V1 board, as experimentation.

Here is the IRFHS8342 soldered to the cap.

And here is the multiple time trial of glitching (power on and off).

The glitching is very fast, almost instantly.

 

[deeps]

Proof Of Concept (POC)

This is DANGEROUS, still in a initial state. Don't replicate this experiment, without understanding the risk.

Glitching without soldering mosfet to the SoC nvidia but to the VDD_1V lines from the PMIC Max77620

I use a broken lcd V1 board, as experimentation.

View attachment 380692

Here is the IRFHS8342 soldered to the cap.
View attachment 380689

And here is the multiple time trial of glitching (power on and off).
View attachment 380690

The glitching is very fast, almost instantly.

very cool! eristas usually glitch really fast though, I would love to see this tested on a Mariko for comparison.

I can see this becoming the method of choice especially for oleds since you have to remove the motherboard anyway. On lite/v1/v2 removing the motherboard will be an additional inconvenience. Maybe better than removing apu shield and cleaning thermal paste, though?

 

[axlcat]

Greetings, I still have the wifi problem on the nintendo switch oled, I change the capacitors with the picofly installed and it continues shorted and the right joycon and the wifi does not work but if I change the capacitors without the picofly installed everything works except the wifi, I have installed those picofly on other nintendos and there is no problem, any idea what is wrong?

 

[lightninjay]

Greetings, I still have the wifi problem on the nintendo switch oled, I change the capacitors with the picofly installed and it continues shorted and the right joycon and the wifi does not work but if I change the capacitors without the picofly installed everything works except the wifi, I have installed those picofly on other nintendos and there is no problem, any idea what is wrong?

It's possible you ripped the traces. You need to remove those capacitors and make sure that you have solid connections to solder to and that one of the capacitors is not just floating above the connection when you solder.

 

[axlcat]

It's possible you ripped the traces. You need to remove those capacitors and make sure that you have solid connections to solder to and that one of the capacitors is not just floating above the connection when you solder.

Thanks for reply, I'll try it tomorrow.

 

[cgtchy0412]

Proof Of Concept (POC)

Here is the IRFHS8342 soldered to the cap.

Great, is there any space left between board and lcd? so we can reassemble this back safely?

very cool! eristas usually glitch really fast though, I would love to see this tested on a Mariko for comparison.

I can see this becoming the method of choice especially for oleds since you have to remove the motherboard anyway. On lite/v1/v2 removing the motherboard will be an additional inconvenience. Maybe better than removing apu shield and cleaning thermal paste, though?

You need to unscrew 3 point on heatsink just to be able to flip the mainboard... so one way or another its better to also replace the soc paste.
But to also consider is if somehow the mosfet get short and heat up its acctually better to have it installed on top side of soc rather than back of it, as it near lcd board which surely sensitive to heat damage.

 

[aleciobr]

Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

 

[jkyoho]

Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

View attachment 380745

UPDATE HEKATE and atm to latest

 

[aleciobr]

UPDATE HEKATE and atm to latest

I already updated and it still continues

 

[bilalhassan341]

Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

View attachment 380745

Format a sd to Fat32. (Don't format it to Exfat. I also faced the HOS issue on Exfat)

Link: https://github.com/sthetix/HATS/releases

1) Download the HATS.zip (Hats have all the files for Atmos and Hekate so there is nothing to add additionally)
2) Unzip it
3) Copy all the files to a newly formatted Fat32 SD Card.

 

[jkyoho]

I already updated and it still continues

post your hekate_ipl.ini

 

[aleciobr]

post your hekate_ipl.ini

[config]
autoboot=0
autoboot_list=0
bootwait=3
backlight=131
noticker=0
autohosoff=1
autonogc=0
updater2p=0
bootprotect=0

{-- Custom Firmwares --}

[AMS (EmuMMC+Incognito)]
cal0blank=1
atmosphere=1
emummcforce=1
fss0=atmosphere/package3
kip1patch=nosigchk
icon=bootloader/res/icon_ams_emu_inc.bmp
{}


[Official Firmware]
emummc_force_disable=1
fss0=atmosphere/package3
stock=1
icon=bootloader/res/icon_switch_logo.bmp
{}

Post automatically merged: Jun 29, 2023

in this case I'm trying to access OFW