Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[CodyRoseman]

Cool, what's the postage to UK like and lead time compared to China?

Around $4 AUD for letter postage. This batch will be made in China, but either way express post gets them from Gerber files to my house in 5 business days

 

[vittorio]

Going to chime in and say this is all I do with the ODAT0 adapters I get.
I literally just snip the left hand piece off.
Job done!

because cut 3v3?

 

[RiotRetroGaming]

because cut 3v3?

My 3.3v comes from here...

 

[vittorio]

My 3.3v comes from here...

yes, but cutting that side fits better under emmc?

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

I've heard that those adapters give problems

 

[cgtchy0412]

Around $4 AUD for letter postage. This batch will be made in China, but either way express post gets them from Gerber files to my house in 5 business days

Mosfets is on the pcb?

 

[cicci084]

Yesterday I did several installations.
Among these is a dispute that I don't know how it works (after replacing the display) despite the bent mainboard.

There is also an oled made with Reballing, if it can serve for some ideas, I also used new connections for the mosfet.

Photo release (The photos are mixed up).
I'm continuing to use FW 2.67 which in my opinion is fast, stable, reliable. What am I getting into by not using the new FW?

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

As for this problem, I carried out the unbrick level 1 and 2 procedures, after adding resistors (actually I redid the whole installation (the one carried out by the customer independently was disastrous by my standards).
Now I don't get slow memory error anymore, and in emummc everything works, even waking up.
I can't get into OFW though, after the black screen nintendo logo.
What guides can I follow?
I can download the keys without error, it takes like 190 or so.

hi guys, can they follow some procedure for this?

 

[CodyRoseman]

Mosfets is on the pcb?

Yes, we discussed the same texas instruments mosfet the other day

 

[abal1000x]

hi guys, can they follow some procedure for this?

Do you have link on unbrick level 1 and level 2?

 

[cicci084]

Do you have link on unbrick level 1 and level 2?

sthetix video's from youtube

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

sthetix video's from youtube

I don't understand why it works in emummc, and i don't ofw

 

[POPOLO]

DAT0 fell off, thought before use, sure it is feasible AWD30 OK line cable (flattened) needle-nose pliers can control the flattened variable

 

[MegaDeKay]

i dont think so ive scrapped any green mask nor im aware of it ????..can you put some light on what is green mask is it to be removed or not ??? regards

Solder mask is applied to the board to prevent solder from sticking during manufacturing where they don't want it to stick. If there is solder mask on any test pads or whatever you want to solder to, you need to carefully scrape it away first. Here is somebody doing it on an old Atari 2600. You need to be quite careful on a more delicate console like the Switch that has very small pads and traces.



What techniques are people here using to remove solder mask from test points before soldering?

 

[Uberfish]

Yeah the old one isn't viable now, one of the ground 'legs' tore when I tried to desolder it to make the change The newer 4 anchor point one is hitting my mailbox any day now so I'll just use that. Thanks!

So an update. New adaptor arrived. Installed it. Now the switch is blackscreen on boot and the picofly still flashes sometimes =* and sometimes ==*. Before the new adaptor it booted into OFW no issues. Sigh.

Any ideas? I'm about to give up and send it to a repair shop.

 

[Switxh]

So an update. New adaptor arrived. Installed it. Now the switch is blackscreen on boot and the picofly still flashes sometimes =* and sometimes ==*. Before the new adaptor it booted into OFW no issues. Sigh.

Any ideas? I'm about to give up and send it to a repair shop.

I got =* on my OLED when I used a DAT0 adapter but once I pushed it in further it worked. Sometimes it seems connected when you take a diode reading cus the pressure from your probe slightly moves the adapter but it may not be connected when you remove the probe. Even with anchors soldered. That's what I experienced anyway. I would reseat the DAT0 adapter. It could also have debris or flux under the EMMC. I like to use ultrasonic baths because flux can carry dust and debris under the BGA chips.

 

[Uberfish]

I got =* on my OLED when I used a DAT0 adapter but once I pushed it in further it worked. Sometimes it seems connected when you take a diode reading cus the pressure from your probe slightly moves the adapter but it may not be connected when you remove the probe. Even with anchors soldered. That's what I experienced anyway. I would reseat the DAT0 adapter. It could also have debris or flux under the EMMC. I like to use ultrasonic baths because flux can carry dust and debris under the BGA chips.

And that could also make the black screen? It doesn't even boot to OFW now even after removing the new DAT0

 

[Switxh]

And that could also make the black screen? It doesn't even boot to OFW now even after removing the new DAT0

Check there is no bridges on the capacitors on the CPU for black screen and also check CMD resistor and solder joint.

 

[abal1000x]

So an update. New adaptor arrived. Installed it. Now the switch is blackscreen on boot and the picofly still flashes sometimes =* and sometimes ==*. Before the new adaptor it booted into OFW no issues. Sigh.

Any ideas? I'm about to give up and send it to a repair shop.

When you check using diode mode value to the D0 test point in the adapter, what is the measurement?

 

[karatefeet]

@karatefeet made a request for links to 'what I use for reballing', figured I'd share with the class...

I just bought the magnetic base, positioning plate and BGA153 stencil from this link:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO67mrS

1st time using a mag base and fixture, gotta say, im never going back.

Much thanks! I’ve ordered the set to hopefully up my reballing game.

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

na bro im good with my stencil , why should i spend money on something that i already have doesnt work better or worse then what i use so just a waste of money for me Xd

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

wooooooow that install looks horrible i hope u gave that thing a nice reinstall

Any tips using the stencil? I have a thin one and one for direct heating and still fail at reballing the eMMC. Specifically I have a hard time getting the stencil off the chip. Using mechanic solder paste which should be good quality.

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

When i dont use high quality cpu flex cables I always prefer dual mosfets with pulldown resistor. Better safe than sorry. And about the dat0 adapters i guarantee you that if you find the good ones and install them correctly they will work for years to come.

Would you have a link for good dat0 adapters? Tried ones from Ali yesterday and could not get a diode reading at all.

 

[cicci084]

Much thanks! I’ve ordered the set to hopefully up my reballing game.

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

Any tips using the stencil? I have a thin one and one for direct heating and still fail at reballing the eMMC. Specifically I have a hard time getting the stencil off the chip. Using mechanic solder paste which should be good quality.

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

Would you have a link for good dat0 adapters? Tried ones from Ali yesterday and could not get a diode reading at all.

i have used stencil for old samsung s4 i9505.
click here

 

[Dee87]

Much thanks! I’ve ordered the set to hopefully up my reballing game.

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

Any tips using the stencil? I have a thin one and one for direct heating and still fail at reballing the eMMC. Specifically I have a hard time getting the stencil off the chip. Using mechanic solder paste which should be good quality.

Post automatically merged: Jun 13, 2023

Would you have a link for good dat0 adapters? Tried ones from Ali yesterday and could not get a diode reading at all.

Yeah most important thing is get some height around the emmc so its level with the emmc I use magnets and double sided tape under the emmc so it level with the magnet around.
The add ur solder paste , make sure the stencil has a even amount of solder paste.
When ur done put pressure on the middle of the emmc stencil so its doesn't warp when heated.

Then heat it till u having shinny balls let it cool down but keep pressure on the stencil.

Then u should be able to take it slowly off if its still sticking add some isoprop oder heat it up an bit with some flux and tilt it slowly till it comes off

 

[tiger111]

Solder mask is applied to the board to prevent solder from sticking during manufacturing where they don't want it to stick. If there is solder mask on any test pads or whatever you want to solder to, you need to carefully scrape it away first. Here is somebody doing it on an old Atari 2600. You need to be quite careful on a more delicate console like the Switch that has very small pads and traces.



What techniques are people here using to remove solder mask from test points before soldering?

you guys remove solder mask before installing picofly on switch??? i havent seen anyone doing in tutorials available correct me if im wrong