Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[floxcap]

Great work. I'm gonna go ahead a try to figure out how to order a couple of these from JLCPCb.
Thank you for sharing this

Cost wise - it would make the most sense to make a bulk order... There's a minimum cost JLC charge for "setup" fees and shipping.

For an order of their minimum (5 units) it works out "expensive"... but the more boards ordered the more the base fees are spread across each unit (hope that makes sense).

Also stocking the components in bulk reduces the cost.
e.g for 10x RP2040 at JLC it's $1.36 AU but for 100x it's $1.08 AU (the RP2040 is the most "expensive" component on the board).

A decent order would make the unit price less than what I've seen for the tiny board.

 

[NooBziN]

@NooBziN Your "rainbow" installations have become famous

Post automatically merged: Jun 11, 2023

Yep, thats the shitty one unfortunately, the one that has been giving everybody here hard time

how can this
I will ask for image rights

Post automatically merged: Jun 11, 2023

Aliexpress is selling ptfe wire and using her/his mod installation as advertising picture

that's why I left the watermark phone model

 

[Danook28]

It appears as though they are intentionally shifting the adapter to the side which includes a pin that is hooked to nothing. This was discussed as a potential option earlier in the thread, but is still a messy and unreliable option.

Either get a better adapter, or set a permanent DAT0, as @Dee87 frequently suggests. But do NOT install shitty OATO adapters and then ask here why things aren't working, when you likely shorted the DAT0 on your/your customer's OLED and now have a headache of a recovery process ahead of you.

I never use this i buy orginal stuff only brother thanks for info..

 

[poiu15]

He use dat0 adapter same that i was add pic before. And it is not bridge how that work with him perfect job.

The dat0 adapter he used is still defective. It will shortcircuit adjacent pins. From the view point of the video, the dat1 pin is on the left side of dat0, on the right side of dat0, is a NC pin, which is not used. He shifted the dat0 adapter to the right side, it will directly contact with the NC pin, also shortcircuit with the dat0 on its left side. As long as dat0 is not shortcircuit with dat1, the adapter works.

 

[FreeLander]

It appears as though they are intentionally shifting the adapter to the side which includes a pin that is hooked to nothing. This was discussed as a potential option earlier in the thread, but is still a messy and unreliable option.

Either get a better adapter, or set a permanent DAT0, as @Dee87 frequently suggests. But do NOT install shitty OATO adapters and then ask here why things aren't working, when you likely shorted the DAT0 on your/your customer's OLED and now have a headache of a recovery process ahead of you.

Thanks, what constitutes as a good adaptor in your opinion? Is it the one with a hook-like shape that goes into dat0? I'm under the impression that any adaptor that has 3v3 written on it is cheap, while v5, and v6-written adaptors are good to go, agree?

 

[LogicalMadness]

Thanks, what constitutes as a good adaptor in your opinion? Is it the one with a hook-like shape that goes into dat0? I'm under the impression that any adaptor that has 3v3 written on it is cheap, while v5, and v6-written adaptors are good to go, agree?

This is the best "Adapter" available
View attachment 377366

 

[Adran_Marit]

Cost wise - it would make the most sense to make a bulk order... There's a minimum cost JLC charge for "setup" fees and shipping.

For an order of their minimum (5 units) it works out "expensive"... but the more boards ordered the more the base fees are spread across each unit (hope that makes sense).

Also stocking the components in bulk reduces the cost.
e.g for 10x RP2040 at JLC it's $1.36 AU but for 100x it's $1.08 AU (the RP2040 is the most "expensive" component on the board).

A decent order would make the unit price less than what I've seen for the tiny board.

if ya got a spare wanna send it my way? *glances at au pricing*

 

[abal1000x]

Hi guys, today I received a switch victim of an incorrect picofly DIY installation.
I immediately identified the problem (it was very evident) as the CPU cable was shorted to ground.
The console did not turn on.
I just partially got it working again.
The current conditions are as follows:
1) The console can start hekate but it doesn't start in OFW, Nintendo appears and then black screen. To start hekate again, I have to disconnect the battery.
2) I get slow emmc error, but I think it's an EMMC hardware error, as I can backup boot0,1 and also all emmc. However, I cannot save the keys, I receive an error (photo attached).
3) I created emummc and it starts up, but it doesn't wake up from rest mode.
My question is is there any way to reset mmc? (I have a donor switch, in case I could use the mmc.)
Can I wake from sleep in emummc?
I attach all the photos.
Thanks for your support.

Could you boot to OFW using this
```
[Warmboot Error Fix]
fss0=atmosphere/package3
stock=1
emummc_force_disable=1
icon=bootloader/res/icon_switch.bmp
```

If you could you might try to reset factory the OFW.

 

[nico77]

how much
normal temperature
for lite ??

when gaming

how much the maximum temp?

i need it for comparison

thx

 

[MegaDeKay]

In the end, I don't wanna jinx my "luck" but I'm with @Dee87 on this one and I really think that in 99.5% of the cases it's installation issue (appart from the ones who used infamous 2.72fw) because there is just not that much hardware variation in switch models to account for such a different user experience during mod installation

I would also attribute a decent percentage of issues to bad components like the infamous three anchor "OAT0" adapter, but agree that the substantial majority is still installation issues.

hi guys im installing picofly in v1 patched switch. im having issues with soldering the soldering dosent stick to the motherboard of switch especially those rst dat etc points..i soldered v1 cable 34 points to connect to cpu it worked fine .i tried on dead mobile board and soldering is sticking normal no issue .only switch motherboard is causing this issue....im also using flux ..can you guys suggest what might be causing this? ??any suggession will be highly appretiated regards

Have you scraped away the green solder mask from those points before applying the flux and attempting to solder?

 

[abal1000x]

Guys for v2 where do you usually put the pico?
i try to put in top of the ram, seems need to cut the shield.

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

@QuiTim that new stencil\mag-holder\jig works like a dream! Reball all the emmcs! Love it!

Speaking of love for new tools...

For anyone here that uses UV curing resin, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a laser to cure, dries in under 10 seconds. Thanks to @lightninjay for the recommendation

Links for the two I purchased (if you get the stronger one, ALSO BUY UV GOGGLES!):

5mw, Battery (what Jay uses)-
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0fHses

*20mw, 5v plug-in (I don't like batteries, the other was just a 'backup')-
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m04Hly0

Thanks for sharing this.

The 10seconds using the 5mw or 20mw?

 

[deeps]

hi guys im installing picofly in v1 patched switch. im having issues with soldering the soldering dosent stick to the motherboard of switch especially those rst dat etc points..i soldered v1 cable 34 points to connect to cpu it worked fine .i tried on dead mobile board and soldering is sticking normal no issue .only switch motherboard is causing this issue....im also using flux ..can you guys suggest what might be causing this? ??any suggession will be highly appretiated regards

The solder won't stick because the pads aren't getting hot enough.

 

[tiger111]

I don't. I bought a bunch of green stuff awhile ago and can't wait to use it up and buy some clear stuff next.

I see @lightninjay already recommend some and I'm sure @Dee87 has some input XD

im installing picofly in v1 patched switch. im having issues with soldering the soldering dosent stick to the motherboard of switch especially those rst dat etc points..i soldered v1 cable 34 points to connect to cpu it worked fine .i tried on dead mobile board and soldering is sticking normal no issue .only switch motherboard is causing this issue....im also using flux ..can you guys suggest what might be causing this? ??any suggession will be highly appretiated

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

The solder won't stick because the pads aren't getting hot enough.

so your take on this shall i put solder on the pad for a while to make it hot????..im concerned it might damage the pad of temperature increase much

 

[FreeLander]

I don't know what's this thing circulating about Picofly having compatibility issues with Lite. I just did three in a row all worked fine.
Following standards, using a score, and checking values have worked great for me.

 

[Dee87]

I don't know what's this thing circulating about Picofly having compatibility issues with Lite. I just did three in a row all worked fine.
Following standards, using a score, and checking values have worked great for me.

That is bullshit there is no capability issues with lites, people like to blame it on the hardware.

But it def the people who are installing it that are provoking the issues .

 

[FreeLander]

That is bullshit there is no capability issues with lites, people like to blame it on the hardware.

But it def the people who are installing it that are provoking the issues .

ِExactly. Do you consider Picofly the toughest mod you've ever done?

 

[ppeach]

im installing picofly in v1 patched switch. im having issues with soldering the soldering dosent stick to the motherboard of switch especially those rst dat etc points..i soldered v1 cable 34 points to connect to cpu it worked fine .i tried on dead mobile board and soldering is sticking normal no issue .only switch motherboard is causing this issue....im also using flux ..can you guys suggest what might be causing this? ??any suggession will be highly appretiated

Post automatically merged: Jun 12, 2023

so your take on this shall i put solder on the pad for a while to make it hot????..im concerned it might damage the pad of temperature increase much

Use high-quality flux, low-temperature solder, fine soldering tips, and extra-fine wire.
Without these it is impossible to install this mod.

 

[cgtchy0412]

So I just got back the switch lite I’ve been working on from the customer. They are saying that the screen freezes and now has a black screen and won’t turn on. Possible solutions? Adding another resistor?

I had one once, and the microsd was dead. Just clean uninstall all, remove sdcard and make sure ofw is normal and stable.
You can redo the mod after. Change the sdcard if necessary.

It’s already been modded software wise. Will it even boot to ofw anymore?

Of course, if you set it as emunand before.

how much
normal temperature
for lite ??

when gaming

how much the maximum temp?

i need it for comparison

thx

You can try play Mariokart8, if it doesnt crash then its fine.

Guys for v2 where do you usually put the pico?
i try to put in top of the ram, seems need to cut the shield.

Outside shield directly bellow fan, no cut is needed.

 

[Browbon]

did i break the GND point on my V2? I can not turn on mu switch

 

[abal1000x]

did i break the GND point on my V2? I can not turn on mu switch

Theres lot of GND point, but some people prefer to solder it on some component, which not designed for it, and might broke it cause of the heat, and mechanical force.

I prefer use the GND pad, GND shield, etc, which is designed to be soldered. Especially the GND pad that big and have lot of vias on it to the bottom layer. Its so strong that it could hold high mechanical force.