Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

BlueBeans

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...and now I start panicking... :(
I removed the picofly completely and the switch is dead! I tried the 20 seconds then short press power button (or 5 sec press) but it is still in black screen..
Any ideas what I can do to bring it back to life? Or is it completely dead and I should leave it?
did you make sure that the battery was unplugged before taking everything apart?
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Guys what are tour opinión abouth this install View attachment 376963

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 8 mediante Tapatalk
its beaitiful!
 

POPOLO

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I don't really understand (I tried googling sp2 bold cable)
I disconnected and reconnected the battery and now I get:
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
Please confirm the resistance value of each point
Each model is different Approximate range
 

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bilalhassan341

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Only the SP2 Bold cable can be installed
Can improve unilateral BOOT speed
If I'm not wrong I think there is some resistors which you need to remove on this model.
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yes it was unplugged. how do I go into maintainance mode?
If emmc is corrupted there is no way to got into maintainance mode. You first have to restore the nand.

Edit: Image from guide by @lightninjay:
 

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Last edited by bilalhassan341,

BlueBeans

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For those of you who are offering modding as a service, what are you charging? Are you charging just for the chip install? Are you also installing the software side?
 

Makc16384

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Its your cmd resistor i bet eather its not connected properly or it doesnt have the correct calue anymore
Yep, my research pointed to the same conclusion. 'CMD resistor - 4.7k 0201'
Check in resistance mode for that value but more than likely its blown so get that replaced (most likely).
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Good point, @Makc16384 did you use single or double mosfet and did you have a pull down resistor on your mosfet build!? Because you could potentially replace the resistor and fix the issue but a month down the line, the pink screen could return. Can you show us a picture of what your APU looks like under the hood (metal shield) and your mosfet build.
Another point, did you kapton tape/solder mask your solder joints your pico when you finished the install. I mean all around the points of the pico that were not used because they could cause shorts with the metal shielding above and below too.
Guys, you were right. From this purple screen, the replacement of the CMD resistor 4.7k 0201 helped! Thank you very much.
 

Adran_Marit

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For those of you who are offering modding as a service, what are you charging? Are you charging just for the chip install? Are you also installing the software side?
Mod cost + time to install (I,e chip, consumables such as solder and flux and how long it takes me to install) Then I will include a backup as well.

Well I have done when I did xbox consoles, this is a whole other level
 

BlueBeans

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Mod cost + time to install (I,e chip, consumables such as solder and flux and how long it takes me to install) Then I will include a backup as well.

Well I have done when I did xbox consoles, this is a whole other level
so what would you say is a good price? I've been Quoting $100 USD for parts and labor. including installing the software mod
 

FreeLander

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Hello all. Since my disastrous APU grinding method, I decided to share with you how I do critical steps and learn from your scrutiny.

CLK is just painful, sometimes I'd grind the point and be able to put solder within seconds, and other times I just keep grinding and no solder would stick. I decided to do what most have recommended and scratch it. I'm still getting the same result.

My question is when do I know that the via is ready to take solder? When do I stop scratching? Here's an example I recorded :
 

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Danook28

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Im now mod v2 nintendo switch. I need the point in emm chip or on motherbord Mariko v2... Only i see pic that the he not bridge 2 point only use one dot //cmd. Rst. Dat0. Clk. The multimeter read same value. The digram on pic is use one point this is old digram.
 

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Dee87

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For those of you who are offering modding as a service, what are you charging? Are you charging just for the chip install? Are you also installing the software side?
i charge 100 for v1/v2/lites and 120 for Oled with emmc reballing and i only over a permanent dat0 no adapters. with picofly and mosfets
i only do hardware the rest i link the the rentry switchhackiseasy link.

no backup

so what would you say is a good price? I've been Quoting $100 USD for parts and labor. including installing the software mod

so ur 100 is fine
with parts and labor.
Post automatically merged:

Hello all. Since my disastrous APU grinding method, I decided to share with you how I do critical steps and learn from your scrutiny.

CLK is just painful, sometimes I'd grind the point and be able to put solder within seconds, and other times I just keep grinding and no solder would stick. I decided to do what most have recommended and scratch it. I'm still getting the same result.

My question is when do I know that the via is ready to take solder? When do I stop scratching? Here's an example I recorded :
as soon as u have enough copper to solder to so i stop when the whole pad is visibla , the clean add flux melt my solder on the iron and hold it on the spot for a few sec till it gets hot enough to take solder
 

BlueBeans

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i charge 100 for v1/v2/lites and 120 for Oled with emmc reballing and i only over a permanent dat0 no adapters. with picofly and mosfets
i only do hardware the rest i link the the rentry switchhackiseasy link.

no backup



so ur 100 is fine
with parts and labor.
is there a video i can watch about the DAT0 permanent install? Im about to do my first OLED here really soon.
 

Dee87

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I have Kapton tape covering the shield where the pico sits. It has to be something to do with the cable but I have no idea. i changed it 3 times so I have no idea what it could be. At this point, I almost prefer the mosfets.
well ur def grounding something out when u put pressure in the shield so use ur finger and see what spot u gotta push till u get a blue light , but i would recommend doing that u might so more damage then u want to just make sure everthing is connected properly and u dont have to much solder on the points.
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is there a video i can watch about the DAT0 permanent install? Im about to do my first OLED here really soon.
search youtube the are more then enough videos :-)
 
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BlueBeans

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well ur def grounding something out when u put pressure in the shield so use ur finger and see what spot u gotta push till u get a blue light , but i would recommend doing that u might so more damage then u want to just make sure everthing is connected properly and u dont have to much solder on the points.
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search youtube the are more then enough videos :-)
im actually not seeing a video where they do a permanent DAT0 install. Can you link one?
 

deeps

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i charge 100 for v1/v2/lites and 120 for Oled with emmc reballing and i only over a permanent dat0 no adapters. with picofly and mosfets
120 seems a bit low for oled if 100 for v2 is the reference. The oled takes quite a bit more time, effort and risk.
 

bilalhassan341

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so what would you say is a good price? I've been Quoting $100 USD for parts and labor. including installing the software mod
I have seen a max price of $40 in my country without the parts. for the install only. But you can get a v1 unpatched with box and everything for $200😂😂. $250 for the v2 with the modchip.😂

Edit: I sold mine v2 with picofly for $250 with everything dock etc.
After that I bought the 2 weeks used v2 for $150 with box and everything is new inside. (Got that switch from an army officer house with 20 rank I think. They were like: just take it give us 150. I said why not)
 
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