Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Mr Skinner]

I really did a thorough review under the microscope and found nothing. No apparent components with signs of burning or swelling. Are there any other tests I can do, step by step, to try and isolate what may have triggered the BSOD?

@abal1000x , @QuiTim @Danook28 ?

 

[jkyoho]

only 3, i will try together tomorrow. Thank u

Post automatically merged: Jun 4, 2023

why only 1 is used and it works for them

That resistor you soldered the jumper on actually goes to both mosfets Gate.

 

[sleeperonair]

Тот резистор, на который вы припаяли перемычку, на самом деле идет к обоим мосфетам Gate.
View attachment 375940

I personally soldered it to 3. And this photo, where it is soldered to a resistor, is not mine

 

[QuiTim]

I really did a thorough review under the microscope and found nothing. No apparent components with signs of burning or swelling. Are there any other tests I can do, step by step, to try and isolate what may have triggered the BSOD?

@abal1000x , @QuiTim @Danook28 ?

Are you getting Blue screen or just dark screen(no power).
If it's power related these are the areas to check for short/problem

 

[Danook28]

There are 2 0402 capacitors very close to each other, are they the same value?

 

[detilmalala]

Hello, I have a v2 whose installation is well done, but it gives me an error **, my question is how much resistance should be placed at the rst point in those rare cases that is needed

 

[Mr Skinner]

Are you getting Blue screen or just dark screen(no power).
If it's power related these are the areas to check for short/problem

Just dark screen.
To check if components are shorted, how should I proceed? probe (-) in metallic shield and probe (+) in components?

 

[QuiTim]

Just dark screen.
To check if components are shorted, how should I proceed? probe (-) in metallic shield and probe (+) in components?

Yes, like that.
If capacitor beeps on both ends then it's shorted

 

[RatchetRussian]

flatten the wire with a hammer against somethings like a vice, then cut it to make sure the wire isn't too wide

Post automatically merged: May 31, 2023

You should use uv soldermask to make sure the wire doesn't move. I would recomend clear soldermask, as some of the coloured soldermask doesn't cure all the way through, since it's meant to be applied in a very thin layer.

I like the flattening idea! What I can't understand is why this person solders the wire to the board before reflowing the chip. Shouldn't the chip have enough solder on it to latch onto a naked wire?



I feel like adding extra solder on the one pad will just make things uneven.

Maybe if you do this, you can use 0.030 solder balls on all the pads and 0.025 solder balls on the point that gets extra solder to accommodate?

 

[Mr Skinner]

Yes, like that.
If capacitor beeps on both ends then it's shorted

These capacitors follow the same rule?

 

[lightninjay]

View attachment 375961

These capacitors follow the same rule?

Those will probably beep both sides (depending on your multimeter and its sensitivity), but that is because the capacitor is passing a slight continuity between the pads.

 

[QuiTim]

View attachment 375961

These capacitors follow the same rule?

It should be like this (picture)
But as @lightninjay said in the post above, some multimeters might give continuous beep.
Try to find a similar capacitor somewhere else on the board and see if you get same results.
Those capacitors being dead make alot of sense since it there the mosfets were soldered and likely the source of your smoky situation

 

[Mr Skinner]

It should be like this (picture)
But as @lightninjay said in the post above, some multimeters might give continuous beep.
Try to find a similar capacitor somewhere else on the board and see if you get same results.
Those capacitors being dead make alot of sense since it there the mosfets were soldered and likely the source of your smoky situation

Thanks for all the help given so far.
Well, I'm going to try very early tomorrow to try to isolate the short. But I'm starting to think it was all in my head... Maybe, just the mosfets have shorted and the smoke I saw maybe came from them.

Assuming that there is no short on my board, which could cause BSOD (Black screen), since I completely removed the picofly and the wires soldered to it. How do I test the APU and MMC to see if they are functional?

Thanks again, but today my day was pretty sad.

 

[lightninjay]

New update to the guide just dropped

https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

 

[deeps]

New update to the guide just dropped

https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

you can remove the "CLK is not connected" error, it no longer exists

 

[lightninjay]

you can remove the "CLK is not connected" error, it no longer exists

If it doesn't exist, then it will never be any issue (I copied the LED code data directly from Rehius' post, so if he still includes it, then so will I)

 

[sergiochendry]

Without pico is the same
Blank screen
After that instal pico and new dat0 adapter
Got succes led but
Just blank screen to

Anyone please help
I got black screen to in my oled switch

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[HackMan37]

If the ums-loader works, you can restore the boot0/1 partition with emmcgenerator using the universalprod.keys.

But before doing anything, backup.

 

[chewwie]

My B/RST point is at around 1.4 V which is wrong... any ideas? thanks in advance