Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[blackheartme]

Hello there! I'm trying to install picofly on a v2 with a Raspberry Pi Pico board.

I started this project a few weeks ago, when RGB LED was the only possible way to get error codes, so my board is on version v2.67. The thing is I cannot update the board because is already trimmed and I lost the USB port. This means I'm not able to get pulse error codes, and just RGB ones. The other problem is that Pi Pico board does not support the RGB LED so I'm stuck with its on-board LED.

I finished the setup today (with no success), using two IRFHS8342 MOSFETs, one for each cap, and every eMMC cable soldered to the eMMC board itself, except for RST, which is soldered to the switch motherboard. I tested every connection I could from the eMMC with its motherboard counterpart and they're all fine. I also tested each MOSFET and they also look really good. All I get is a small blink from the on-board LED (which remember, it's not RGB and I don't have the latest firmware either, so that tells me nothing), and after that blink it boots normally to OFW.

I wanted to try two things:

First, update the Pi Pico through SWD, so I can flash it with no need of the USB port. The problem here: you need to provide an ELF file through SWD, a UF2 won't work, and as I can see from GitHub, @rehius is not building the UF2 file with standard Raspberry Pi tools, but with a custom Python script, so I have no clue on how to build the ELF file by myself.

Second, I wanted to reset statistics to try from scratch, but I don't know how to do it using a Pi Pico board. I tried resetting the board on the joycon logo as someone suggested here (RUN pin to GND), but it didn't work. I want to reset them because before finishing, I've been testing the board alone and I'm worried about having corrupted statistics, but actually I don't know if the issue is with my wiring or not.

If I cannot do any of those, I'll have to go buy a new Pi Pico, flash the latest firmware with pulse error codes and trim it to resolder everything. I don't want to do this yet because it would require a ton of work: from the board cutting itself to the resoldering of EVERYTHING. I would like to avoid this as much as I can if possible.

Anyway, any clue would be really appreciated.

Just get another pi pico, flash 2.74, and this time just remove the transistor for dat0 solder point in pico board, then assembled all the wire, then power on.. if like you said that your switch board soldering in fine then it should boot to sdcard screen.
Pi Pico is a rather tricky, but ive done multiple units with Pi Pico and in the process ive lost/burn/broke 4 pico boards.

yep dont add pain to yourself, buy new one as simple as that

 

[QuiTim]

I figured as much, but the install looks clean to me.
This scenario happened twice and I won't be able to stop it if I didn't know what's wrong, it goes like this:
Switch works fine after install ( NO SD card logo)
I insert an SD card and get a black screen
I have to press power button for 10 second to get the no sd card logo again.

The moment I start twerking with it, ( sometimes as much as re-opening the case) I get a blue screen and that's it.
Removing all wires doesn't help.

What do I keep killing the CPU? Is it related to my MOSFET soldering. This happened to me on a Lite, OLED, and now a V1.

P.S this pic was taken before I masked everything with solder mask.

Please @Dee87 and @QuiTim @deeps @Adran_Marit @bilalhassan341 if you could troubleshoot this for me.

Good morning
Can you solder back the pico and try this: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-aio-thread.628951/post-10170289
Might give us an insight if it's emmc or apu

 

[naldo29]

did a whoopsie and saw that the mosfet was starting to smoke, i did act quickly on it and it didnt "blow up" although i 100% know one is fucked up. The other one is fine. Problem is, i dont know which one, they look the same and they dont look blown up. Is it possible to check which one works fine without installing it into the switch?

 

[QuiTim]

View attachment 374383
did a whoopsie and saw that the mosfet was starting to smoke, i did act quickly on it and it didnt "blow up" although i 100% know one is fucked up. The other one is fine. Problem is, i dont know which one, they look the same and they dont look blown up. Is it possible to check which one works fine without installing it into the switch?

Yes you can:

 

[Danook28]

View attachment 374383
did a whoopsie and saw that the mosfet was starting to smoke, i did act quickly on it and it didnt "blow up" although i 100% know one is fucked up. The other one is fine. Problem is, i dont know which one, they look the same and they dont look blown up. Is it possible to check which one works fine without installing it into the switch?

You know how to read. I have mosfet i can read it for you.

 

[Chiafeid]

hello everyone, there is a problem .soldered everything well , everything worked .After some time, the screen started blinking periodically, now I have no image, but there is sound .Is there any way to fix this?

Post automatically merged: May 28, 2023

Hello everyone, there is a problem .Soldered everything well , everything worked. Atmosphere has loaded up .After some time, the screen started blinking periodically, now I have no image, but there is sound .Is there any way to fix this?

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[Chiafeid]

Check the backlight connector. What is your device? If its light the backlight connector on the left joycon pcb.

This is a switch light , I checked the backlight loop , it seems to be intact .The screen glows black, there is no image

 

[Adran_Marit]

This is a switch light , I checked the backlight loop , it seems to be intact .The screen glows black, there is no image

more info and post photos of work

 

[Chiafeid]

more info and post photos of work

Sorry for disturbing , it was necessary to clean all the cables connected to the display with alcohol, without alcohol , don't work.
My switch is drunk

 

[cgtchy0412]

This is a switch light , I checked the backlight loop , it seems to be intact .The screen glows black, there is no image

This defect is non visual, just by detach attach can make this connector/flex non functional in one of the pin.
You can try to detach it again and attach it with care push a liite bit more to make sure.
Nightmare connector strikes again.

By the way i have one more led code, its *=* short long short, its when i reversed between clk and rst .. symtomp is bsod sometimes boot nintendo logo then bsod. Cheers..

 

[Switxh]

Hi guys if any of you with an OLED Picofly install get the chance can you take a reading in diode mode with black probe on ground of the CPU point on the RP2040? (point 15 I think). I have sporadic glitch times and the reading I get is 1.119v and that seems high to me. Could this be part of my problem with random slow glitches?

 

[FreeLander]

What do you guys think?

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

Long story short, ordering 0201 smd resistor would take 3 weeks to a month and in our local shops here only has 0402. Can I use 0402 smd resistor and will it affect performance or something?

It fitted? Same situation...but next to the rst pad...ripped off one resistor and cant find 0201..

Post automatically merged: May 28, 2023

Is there any chance i can use 0402 resistors for these two.

 

[LogicalMadness]

Hello there! I'm trying to install picofly on a v2 with a Raspberry Pi Pico board.

I started this project a few weeks ago, when RGB LED was the only possible way to get error codes, so my board is on version v2.67. The thing is I cannot update the board because is already trimmed and I lost the USB port. This means I'm not able to get pulse error codes, and just RGB ones. The other problem is that Pi Pico board does not support the RGB LED so I'm stuck with its on-board LED.

I finished the setup today (with no success), using two IRFHS8342 MOSFETs, one for each cap, and every eMMC cable soldered to the eMMC board itself, except for RST, which is soldered to the switch motherboard. I tested every connection I could from the eMMC with its motherboard counterpart and they're all fine. I also tested each MOSFET and they also look really good. All I get is a small blink from the on-board LED (which remember, it's not RGB and I don't have the latest firmware either, so that tells me nothing), and after that blink it boots normally to OFW.

I wanted to try two things:

First, update the Pi Pico through SWD, so I can flash it with no need of the USB port. The problem here: you need to provide an ELF file through SWD, a UF2 won't work, and as I can see from GitHub, @rehius is not building the UF2 file with standard Raspberry Pi tools, but with a custom Python script, so I have no clue on how to build the ELF file by myself.

Second, I wanted to reset statistics to try from scratch, but I don't know how to do it using a Pi Pico board. I tried resetting the board on the joycon logo as someone suggested here (RUN pin to GND), but it didn't work. I want to reset them because before finishing, I've been testing the board alone and I'm worried about having corrupted statistics, but actually I don't know if the issue is with my wiring or not.

If I cannot do any of those, I'll have to go buy a new Pi Pico, flash the latest firmware with pulse error codes and trim it to resolder everything. I don't want to do this yet because it would require a ton of work: from the board cutting itself to the resoldering of EVERYTHING. I would like to avoid this as much as I can if possible.

Anyway, any clue would be really appreciated.

Why not just get a PZero?

 

[mlucianoeze]

Why not just get a PZero?

I'd love to, but it's not available in my country, and restrictive customs policies here don't allow me to buy it from a foreign country, so I'm stuck with Pi Pico I guess

 

[cblock85]

I keet getting values under 500 when I put in the dat0 under the emmc. Usually about 430-480 is this normal? If not is there a better way of placing the point on under the emmc?

 

[mlucianoeze]

Just get another pi pico, flash 2.74, and this time just remove the transistor for dat0 solder point in pico board, then assembled all the wire, then power on.. if like you said that your switch board soldering in fine then it should boot to sdcard screen.
Pi Pico is a rather tricky, but ive done multiple units with Pi Pico and in the process ive lost/burn/broke 4 pico boards.

Cool, thanks for the tip, at least if it doesn't work right away, I'll get the pulse error code.

 

[therealkush]

I've never heard of an RP2040 modchip appearing in the wild, and I can't find any information about it. I'm also kind of skeptical if this thing is going to be safe. I mean, looking at the photo of how it is soldered into place, it looks crudely done to the point that something could shorten. They should've just given you a diagram that tells you how to do it yourself. It also looks like this chip doesn't have any proper circuit protection even, so that can lead even to a potential hazard in many cases.

You sound really dumb. The raspberry pi pico and pico w are an rp2040 the rp2040 zero is based off the pico uses the same documentation as the pico. It's 100% based off the pico just smaller and missing the vbus and vsys pin. Raspberry pi has been used to mod almost every single console in existence. Do your research before you spit out nonsense.

 

[lightninjay]

You sound really dumb. The raspberry pi pico and pico w are an rp2040 the rp2040 zero is based off the pico uses the same documentation as the pico. It's 100% based off the pico just smaller and missing the vbus and vsys pin. Raspberry pi has been used to mod almost every single console in existence. Do your research before you spit out nonsense.

Damn bro, you need to read a little better, that post was made last YEAR. Those posts are practically archived, and if you were up-to-date, you may know that most people are aware of what this board is, and how it works. Read the guide in my signature if you're still being educated.