Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[MAI87]

Hey, I have a problem on my switch lite.
Picofly not working, i remove pico and flex.
Nintendo start OFW, but have a problem microsd. Try three microsd and nothing.
View attachment 370646
And second question. Flex mosfet has three resistor that's right?
I have a bridged resistor (multimeter 0.000 and beep).
I marked in the picture, Please help me
View attachment 370648

the resistance you are marking is only 1 ohm. It is normal for it to continue. Actually, everything is fine with your flex cable.

 

[1337_Ninja]

470 means 47ohm/47R
https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/470

If they use 470ohm/470R
Then the correct resistor smd should "4700"
https://kiloohm.info/smd4-resistor/4700#:~:text=Standard EIA Decade Values Table - decade 100 to 1000 Ω&text=The 4 digit SMD resistor,hundred and seventy Ohms resistance.

4700 stands for 470ohm
470 stands for 47ohm

I'm aware. It's reported that the Tiny board uses 470ohm which need to be removed and replaced with 47ohm, like I said in the previous reply.

 

[AceCuba]

hey guys i see people cuting the metal shield , but if you remove the 3.3v regulator the switches and the usb c , theres no rom to evoid cuting th shield ?

 

[Danook28]

How meny point to 3v3 on v1 nintendo switch motherbord if you dont want to soldring 3v3 to the tiny smd capacitor that too close to other smd capacitor. Thank for help.

 

[QuiTim]

hey guys i see people cuting the metal shield , but if you remove the 3.3v regulator the switches and the usb c , theres no rom to evoid cuting th shield ?

you can make it fit without cutting the shield.
But cutting the shield gives you more space and (at least for me) it's easier (and it does no harm to Switch).
So it's up to you.

 

[AceCuba]

i dont like that kind of harm to the chasis ,those permanent modifications ,

 

[QuiTim]

How meny point to 3v3 on v1 nintendo switch motherbord if you dont want to soldring 3v3 to the tiny smd capacitor that too close to other smd capacitor. Thank for help.

I used this one on the first v1.

 

[AceCuba]

you can make it fit without cutting the shield.
But cutting the shield gives you more space and (at least for me) it's easier (and it does no harm to Switch).
So it's up to you.

any idea to how do this without a dremel

 

[QuiTim]

any idea to how do this without a dremel

I just used a 20cent scalpel and a wooden board, the shield is really soft

 

[Marsowaty]

the resistance you are marking is only 1 ohm. It is normal for it to continue. Actually, everything is fine with your flex cable.

Ok, i understand.
But why microSD after install pico not working?

 

[Phantomas77]

hey guys i see people cuting the metal shield , but if you remove the 3.3v regulator the switches and the usb c , theres no rom to evoid cuting th shield ?

In order to NOT cut the shield and fit the Picofly RP2040-Zero board:

• For OLED --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of RAM heatsink (where HWFLY usually sits) --> there's at least 0.5mm distance between the shield and the RP2040 board upon final assembly.
• For Lite --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of eMMC shield --> it's a perfect pocket when closing the shield, fits well and no pressure to RP board. (If you keep it on top of RAM heatsink, it will create a bump and force the assembly).
• For V1/V2 --> don't know, will let others to comment.

You can get even a slimmer install if you remove as well the LDO on the back of RP2040.

Always remember to insulate everything (including the sides of the RP2040) with polyimide or similar tape.

 

[guillel90]

In order to NOT cut the shield and fit the Picofly RP2040-Zero board:

• For OLED --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of RAM heatsink (where HWFLY usually sits) --> there's at least 0.5mm distance between the shield and the RP2040 board upon final assembly.
• For Lite --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of eMMC shield --> it's a perfect pocket when closing the shield, fits well and no pressure to RP board. (If you keep it on top of RAM heatsink, it will create a bump and force the assembly).
• For V1/V2 --> don't know, will let others to comment.

You can get even a slimmer install if you remove as well the LDO on the back of RP2040.

Always remember to insulate everything (including the sides of the RP2040) with polyimide or similar tape.

And what about the 2040seed and the tiny versions?

 

[lightninjay]

And what about the 2040seed and the tiny versions?

In the Lite, the Seeed Xiao will sit in the same pocket the RP2040-Zero does, you just need to remove the buttons and USB-C port. If you're feeling adventurous, you can also remove the shield over the RP2040 chip, but be careful not to break anything, as components are very close to the shield housing.

I personally kept the USB-C port on the Seeed Xiao, removed the CPU shield and buttons, and then cut the shield of my switch lite to accomodate the USB-C port.

 

[LogicalMadness]

And what about the 2040seed and the tiny versions?

There are better ways to ask things... @Phantomas77 just made a GREAT post and it feels, to me, like you sht all over it.

How's this:

That's great for anyone with a PZero. Does anyone know the procedure for the seed and tiny versions?

Even then, the best move is always to research and make your own decisions. Asking 'the internet' to hold your hand is just asking to go crazy.

 

[DesDeux]

Tried to install picofly, but got blue then pink (purple) light (and on switch got 2101-0001 error code). What could be causing this?

 

[d.b]

In order to NOT cut the shield and fit the Picofly RP2040-Zero board:

• For OLED --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of RAM heatsink (where HWFLY usually sits) --> there's at least 0.5mm distance between the shield and the RP2040 board upon final assembly.
• For Lite --> USB + buttons removed and RP2040-zero on top of eMMC shield --> it's a perfect pocket when closing the shield, fits well and no pressure to RP board. (If you keep it on top of RAM heatsink, it will create a bump and force the assembly).
• For V1/V2 --> don't know, will let others to comment.

You can get even a slimmer install if you remove as well the LDO on the back of RP2040.

Always remember to insulate everything (including the sides of the RP2040) with polyimide or similar tape.

On v1 , V2 after remove port and buttons you can put the board on top of the shield after you pass it through the fan hole just like the hwfly core , it fits fine and cover close without any bump..

 

[hamzamark]

As I promised, I will report if the mod works. It worked! Blue then green led and "no sd card" appeared on the screen. So, as mentioned before, it's not a problem if the small capacitor next to the 3.3V regulator (?) is damaged (as you can see in the wiring diagram, in the case of the Lite). You have to remove it ( dont bridge!!!! ) and solder the 3.3 wire to another point!

Thank you very much to those who helped!

 

[AceCuba]

On v1 , V2 after remove port and buttons you can put the board on top of the shield after you pass it through the fan hole just like the hwfly core , it fits file and cover close without any bump..

can you post a picture

 

[d.b]

can you post a picture

i will tomorrow..

 

[LogicalMadness]

On v1 , V2 after remove port and buttons you can put the board on top of the shield after you pass it through the fan hole just like the hwfly core ,,

IMO, that sounds fine for a chip that can easily be disconnected and has highly secured flex cables. For these manual PFly installs, though, that could interfere with further disassembly AND be more susceptible to needing said disassembly.

Again IMO, you should always think about how you're going to work on the machine again, and make sure your 'install' has an 'uninstall path'. I have an idea for how to do this with PFlys, but I need parts. Send me all your broken joycons that have dead sticks AND *dead* batteries

Switchs (Switches?) break a lot, they're portables, and now you've manually soldered wires to it as well. We're not corporations with machines, we can't GUARANTEE our solder joints will hold up to the abuse these things usually take, and now said connections are being fished through a hole and possibly pinched as well. The ability to easily remove parts and troubleshoot is priceless, HIGH chance you'll want\need to open it up again.

Interference shielding IS important, but I believe that is handled best by all the individual shields for the emmc\APU\RAM\WiFi. It seems the metal backplate doesn't really do much. So, since SOMETHING MUST be cut\removed (if even just RP2040 parts\board) to make room for MORE equipment to fit in a PORTABLE, my main target on any Switch is this plate. Sometimes the RP2040 board gets more removed and sometimes it's this shield (search the forums to figure out which I mean for which).

If anyone does a PFly install and now has all these tools that you don't plan to use again, idk what ur doing in the 1st place. Get back in there and upgrade the internal storage, or think of case swaps (don't buy cheap!), or, if it's a Lite, think about replacing the joysticks (hall effect?).

*Jimmy Valmer* I mean, come on...

*Edit*