Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[RiotRetroGaming]

hello guys...

so im about to resolder back my mosfet, now im using enameled 0.2mm

Spoiler: enameled 0.2mm

View attachment 370759
View attachment 370760

but i got problem.

i cant melt the solder lead to the tip enameled
i wanted the lead solder melt and stick properly to the enameled point
mmmn.... any tips how to melt it ?
im using 300-350 heat

Spoiler

View attachment 370770

i follow this video :
SolderJS #135 - The BEST Way to Tin Enameled Wire

but still wont sticky

help
thx


(the purpose , so i can easily solder it to the cpu caps resistor from the mosfet D(drain) to the cpu caps.
View attachment 370769
*this picture, i want my enamaled 0.2mm cable can be soldered melt like this !
(but ignore me, for other soldering i can do properly without no problem, my main help , just for the two cables to the tip cpu caps , help pls.)

I set mine to 480c to tin all my ends

Post automatically merged: Yesterday at 10:49 PM

Same place just don't cut the shield and route the wires through top left corner

Post automatically merged: Yesterday at 5:37 PM

I think this info is worth including in the next Definitive Guide update (with addition of the comment from @d.b)

This looks similar to one of mine I did ages ago. I used scissors too.
I love the yellow kapton tape behind my clear case 🥰👍

 

[ChrisV8]

Where I become cable for oled back side? YouTube Link not work. And maybe mosfet cable good to to know. Can everyone help me?

 

[Marsowaty]

If your sd cards don't work, you may have done some damage somewhere or directly your card slot is not working correctly.

What should i do first, how to start?

 

[d.b]

IMO, that sounds fine for a chip that can easily be disconnected and has highly secured flex cables. For these manual PFly installs, though, that could interfere with further disassembly AND be more susceptible to needing said disassembly.

Again IMO, you should always think about how you're going to work on the machine again, and make sure your 'install' has an 'uninstall path'. I have an idea for how to do this with PFlys, but I need parts. Send me all your broken joycons that have dead sticks AND *dead* batteries

Switchs (Switches?) break a lot, they're portables, and now you've manually soldered wires to it as well. We're not corporations with machines, we can't GUARANTEE our solder joints will hold up to the abuse these things usually take, and now said connections are being fished through a hole and possibly pinched as well. The ability to easily remove parts and troubleshoot is priceless, HIGH chance you'll want\need to open it up again.

Interference shielding IS important, but I believe that is handled best by all the individual shields for the emmc\APU\RAM\WiFi. It seems the metal backplate doesn't really do much. So, since SOMETHING MUST be cut\removed (if even just RP2040 parts\board) to make room for MORE equipment to fit in a PORTABLE, my main target on any Switch is this plate. Sometimes the RP2040 board gets more removed and sometimes it's this shield (search the forums to figure out which I mean for which).

If anyone does a PFly install and now has all these tools that you don't plan to use again, idk what ur doing in the 1st place. Get back in there and upgrade the internal storage, or think of case swaps (don't buy cheap!), or, if it's a Lite, think about replacing the joysticks (hall effect?).

*Jimmy Valmer* I mean, come on...

*Edit*

it's not that complicated as you describing the whole install...if you want to uninstall just reverse the process witch is about 30 sec...i dont know what you have in mind...

Post automatically merged: Yesterday at 11:08 PM

On v1 , V2 after remove port and buttons you can put the board on top of the shield after you pass it through the fan hole just like the hwfly core , it fits fine and cover close without any bump..

@AceCuba
of course the cables can be shorter but in this particular switch the boot time is something like 1 sec...

 

[Mgt]

What should i do first, how to start?

First, check that different cards are not really working. Second, open your switch to check if at any time you did any damage in any area when you were installing the picofly. Third, check components near the SD slot. Fourth, If you still have the same problem, you can upload close-up images of everything you were touching so we can see and help better.

 

[aspirins]

question, put picofly flashed kefir made emunand loaded into the atmosphere put the games everything was ok plays all the class, loaded into fullstock turned on the internet there tied my account set to download fortnite, decided to boot into the atmosphere check if everything is in order with emu nand, and the switch starts now only in fullstock, and immediately without the kefir splash screen, and even if the flash drive is removed, the chip behaves usually turns on blue then green and goes out as before when kefir started

 

[789-Benny]

Just as he is free to ask a question, we are free to answer it as we wish. If an answer involves telling someone to take it to a professional, it may not be the answer the person wanted to hear, but it is still an answer.

LOL

 

[LogicalMadness]

Again, just answer his question. It will make him learn.

Their answer is all over the internet, they should learn how to use Kung Foogle 1st

*Neo* I know Kung Fu...oogle

 

[789-Benny]

Their answer is all over the internet, they should learn how to use Kung Foogle 1st

*Neo* I know Kung Fu...oogle

LOL

 

[LogicalMadness]

it's not that complicated as you describing the whole install...if you want to uninstall just reverse the process witch is about 30 sec...i dont know what you have in mind...

I never said it was complicated, I basically just said it 'adds unneeded steps', and you're forgetting about the time to reinstall it.

Think your fan is never going to die? Never want to replace the thermal paste again? Sure hope you only charge with an official charger and never mess up plugging it in.

 

[abal1000x]

Have a weird one and its already at my customer... He send me this video above.
May be You guys have experience with this issue?
He told me its boots fine at the first time into atmosphere but when he just installed some games the console just reboots into ofw. Then its no longer boots up into bootloader/atmosphere.
Customer will send it back to me today.

Usually its heat, just let it cool off, and its work again.

 

[LuigiGad]

hi all, i installed picofly on a switch lite using rp2040-zero with latest firmware. When I start, without microsd I have the NO SD screen correctly. If I insert the micro SD the picofly always flashes green - blue why?

[RESOLVED]
I fixed it by changing point 3V3. The one near the SD slot is NOT good

 

[malgamer]

Hey, I have a problem on my switch lite.
Picofly not working, i remove pico and flex.
Nintendo start OFW, but have a problem microsd. Try three microsd and nothing.
View attachment 370646
And second question. Flex mosfet has three resistor that's right?
I have a bridged resistor (multimeter 0.000 and beep).
I marked in the picture, Please help me
View attachment 370648

that middle resistor 0.0ohm and another 2 resistor 2.2k or 1k

 

[abal1000x]

hi all, i installed picofly on a switch lite using rp2040-zero with latest firmware. When I start, without microsd I have the NO SD screen correctly. If I insert the micro SD the picofly always flashes green - blue why?

Thats the RST line, you might clean any residue around it, or shorten the wire, or replace the wire, or use a bigger wire.

Reference From QA Rehius:
Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point

Post automatically merged: Today at 12:44 AM

hi all, i installed picofly on a switch lite using rp2040-zero with latest firmware. When I start, without microsd I have the NO SD screen correctly. If I insert the micro SD the picofly always flashes green - blue why?

Ah i missed that you use 3.3v near usd. I dont read any confirmation about those point in here. That could be the cause.
Seems that 3.3v point you choose, connected to this smd in the back.

Dont know what is that. Might be voltage regulator?

I think you need to find other 3.3v source to be used by the pico.

 

[Asadayo]

I installed PicoFly on nine OLEDs this week. There was a new Toshiba NAND 'THGAMSG9T24BAIL' on three devices.

These Toshiba NAND devices all had the same results.

1. Check PicoFly start-up after installation normally.
2. Verify normal emu-nand creation and boot.

--------Error-------
3. Black screen with purple LED after reboot in many cases.
3-1. Black screen after purple LED even after reboot by pressing power button for 12 seconds.
3-2. PicoFly does not work without full battery discharge, connector reconnection.
3-3. After a successful reboot, hekate can enter, but atmosphere fails to enter afterwards.
3-4. The PicoFly version cannot be checked in the toolbox.
3-5. Sometimes a sudden slow emmc mode announcement.

I used awg 30~36 alternately because I thought this might be a line thickness issue, but it didn't get better.

This problem solved all problems after connecting an additional 47ohm register to C and A points.

Why is this only happening with the new Toshiba NAND?

 

[Donnie-Burger]

I installed PicoFly on nine OLEDs this week. There was a new Toshiba NAND 'THGAMSG9T24BAIL' on three devices.

These Toshiba NAND devices all had the same results.

1. Check PicoFly start-up after installation normally.
2. Verify normal emu-nand creation and boot.

--------Error-------
3. Black screen with purple LED after reboot in many cases.
3-1. Black screen after purple LED even after reboot by pressing power button for 12 seconds.
3-2. PicoFly does not work without full battery discharge, connector reconnection.
3-3. After a successful reboot, hekate can enter, but atmosphere fails to enter afterwards.
3-4. The PicoFly version cannot be checked in the toolbox.
3-5. Sometimes a sudden slow emmc mode announcement.

I used awg 30~36 alternately because I thought this might be a line thickness issue, but it didn't get better.

This problem solved all problems after connecting an additional 47ohm register to C and A points.

Why is this only happening with the new Toshiba NAND?

Sometimes slow emmc is a bad 47 ohm res - happened to me last night. Started one by one and got lucky on first one, #29 on zero was bad. After I replaced it slow mode error gone and all hos load.

 

[abal1000x]

I installed PicoFly on nine OLEDs this week. There was a new Toshiba NAND 'THGAMSG9T24BAIL' on three devices.

These Toshiba NAND devices all had the same results.

1. Check PicoFly start-up after installation normally.
2. Verify normal emu-nand creation and boot.

--------Error-------
3. Black screen with purple LED after reboot in many cases.
3-1. Black screen after purple LED even after reboot by pressing power button for 12 seconds.
3-2. PicoFly does not work without full battery discharge, connector reconnection.
3-3. After a successful reboot, hekate can enter, but atmosphere fails to enter afterwards.
3-4. The PicoFly version cannot be checked in the toolbox.
3-5. Sometimes a sudden slow emmc mode announcement.

I used awg 30~36 alternately because I thought this might be a line thickness issue, but it didn't get better.

This problem solved all problems after connecting an additional 47ohm register to C and A points.

Why is this only happening with the new Toshiba NAND?

Thank you for sharing your experience.
What is C and A points?

 

[LuigiGad]

Thats the RST line, you might clean any residue around it, or shorten the wire, or replace the wire, or use a bigger wire.

Reference From QA Rehius:
Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point

Post automatically merged: Today at 12:44 AM

Ah i missed that you use 3.3v near usd. I dont read any confirmation about those point in here. That could be the cause.
Seems that 3.3v point you choose, connected to this smd in the back.
View attachment 370821
Dont know what is that. Might be voltage regulator?

I think you need to find other 3.3v source to be used by the pico.

thanks for the answer, but I solved it brilliantly by changing the point of the 3V3. can you send me a link of all the 3V3 points of the switch lite? Thank you

 

[lightninjay]

question, put picofly flashed kefir made emunand loaded into the atmosphere put the games everything was ok plays all the class, loaded into fullstock turned on the internet there tied my account set to download fortnite, decided to boot into the atmosphere check if everything is in order with emu nand, and the switch starts now only in fullstock, and immediately without the kefir splash screen, and even if the flash drive is removed, the chip behaves usually turns on blue then green and goes out as before when kefir started

Your 50 (49.9) ohm resistors threw me a little bit, but those should be alright, considering you were booting. Is it possible that your wire attached to the resistor on pin 26 is intermittently hitting the ground pad of your removed button, and foiling the picofly glitch?

 

[abal1000x]

Sometimes slow emmc is a bad 47 ohm res - happened to me last night. Started one by one and got lucky on first one, #29 on zero was bad. After I replaced it slow mode error gone and all hos load.

Maybe for Toshiba the value suited is not 47ohm but 100ohm, need more confirmation for people who actually install on Toshiba nand.

Its one for all solution, so there could be some nand not suited with the resistance value.

Post automatically merged: Today at 3:24 AM

thanks for the answer, but I solved it brilliantly by changing the point of the 3V3. can you send me a link of all the 3V3 points of the switch lite? Thank you

I used what people used (under the flex cable), its worked.
This also confirmed: