Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I got a successful installation of the picofly, start hetake the first two days, just after connecting the charger with the swicth off hetake stop starting, now just start the OFW and there is no way to start in hetake, the fly peak flashes blue and then green
The green could be cyan. Check your CPU-MOSFET(s)\flex
 
I got a successful installation of the picofly, start hetake the first two days, just after connecting the charger with the swicth off hetake stop starting, now just start the OFW and there is no way to start in hetake, the fly peak flashes blue and then green
I have exactly the same problem, it worked for 2 days and then stopped.
 
Flex for Lite. I buy Aliexpress flex
I bought cheaper flexes off an unofficial seller and had issues (think I bent it too many times back and forth) when my CPU line went to the '2 middle pins' on the end. The 'cyan' issue went away when I soldered to the resistor on the flex (next to the MOSFET, use the various pics floating around to know which resistor end to solder to)
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What is the the v1 Flex Cable on 2 smd capacitor read on multimater ..????
Can someone help this person with their English translations? I can't understand @Danook28's questions 95% of the time.
 
I bought cheaper flexes off an unofficial seller and had issues (think I bent it too many times back and forth) when my CPU line went to the '2 middle pins' on the end. The 'cyan' issue went away when I soldered to the resistor on the flex (next to the MOSFET, use the various pics floating around to know which resistor end to solder to)
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Can someone help this person with their English translations? I can't understand @Danook28's questions 95% of the time.
The 2 capacitor that soldring Flex Cable to it must get read or is give beep on multimater.
 
Does anyone know the cap value for the 3.3v point on the V2? The upper connecting terminal on the positive side of the cap melted off and now no solder will stick on to it properly. Checked the multimeter and it still has continuity and the switch still works and everything but want to replace it for my second crack at it. Meanwhile will practise some more. (Also learning that hwfly installs are nothing compared to this.) Any help would be appreciated.

cap value v2 3.3v.png

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Thank you everyone on this thread for everything. I discovered picofly a month ago and after that i immediately bought a used lite and installed the chip. It was my first real microsoldering work and i did it successfully. Also a fun fact: if you forget to install RST cable to RP2040, you get yellow led even though your dat0 cable is correctly installed.
Congrats. What size wire are you using for that (noticed you used one type for all connections)
 
Does anyone know the cap value for the 3.3v point on the V2? The upper connecting terminal on the positive side of the cap melted off and now no solder will stick on to it properly. Checked the multimeter and it still has continuity and the switch still works and everything but want to replace it for my second crack at it. Meanwhile will practise some more. (Also learning that hwfly installs are nothing compared to this.) Any help would be appreciated.

View attachment 369675
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Congrats. What size wire are you using for that (noticed you used one type for all connections)
M92T36_Component_Values.png
Here's a diagram from
https://repair.wiki/index.php?title=Nintendo_Switch_Not_Charging
 
I strongly believe it is.

They even put two user mode pad in the top right :D .
It could be used for rgb/grb mode, or used as reset statistics, or used as auto board detection.
And grind the right and bottom header to minimalize the size.

This new board is suited for hacking things up :D.
I imagine make a custom keyboard (open source) using this little guy.
Regarding those 2 user modes, the instructions aren't clear from those guys, I did not understand for what it's used. But I guess that @rehius will get his hands on this "custom made" board sooner or later and we'll have more info ;)
 
Can someone tell me how I can solder a V2 flex cable for a v1 switch? Where exactly I need to solder it?

Since it worked once I couldn't solve the Led purple problem. I know it's because CMD / V2 flex but couldn't find a solution. Maybe it was luck I don't know.
 
Can someone tell me how I can solder a V2 flex cable for a v1 switch? Where exactly I need to solder it?

Since it worked once I couldn't solve the Led purple problem. I know it's because CMD / V2 flex but couldn't find a solution. Maybe it was luck I don't know.
 

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Last edited by QuiTim,
Green lines are wire that you need to solder to capacitor (illustrated with red and black)
Yellow are not wires, they are just to point out where is each terminal.
You can also cut it like in the second picture and use the upper part of the remaing copper pad to solder to capacitors in APU.
That helps a lot man, thank you so much. Need to try it out tomorrow. What exactly do you describe on the yellow lines? The "S" is still the GND right?
 

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