I dont think so. 20k resistor is needed if it reboots after successful glitch (blue-white-green).in soldering im skilled for solder. Im also installing modchip to my client. for solder its ok, do I need any resistor? to rst something like that
I dont think so. 20k resistor is needed if it reboots after successful glitch (blue-white-green).in soldering im skilled for solder. Im also installing modchip to my client. for solder its ok, do I need any resistor? to rst something like that
Not the hwfly but the picofly the 4th product.
View attachment 366680
Its out of stock last week.
I thought someone already bought it in the previous messages.
Editted:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10132666
I have searched the whole aliexpress and the only one who sell it is that store, so i assume he bought it from there.
Yeah..... but I don't think you wanna go that way (see attached).Soo are there alternative DAT0 point for soldering? I don't have the adapter for it. Everything else is soldered correctly, no problems
No way I'm doing that, thanks for the infoYeah..... but I don't think you wanna go that way (see attached).
I would rather reball the bga than try this![]()
if u removed the usb,voltage regulator , buttons there is no need for cutting the oled metal shielding , somehow nintendo startet making that particular place where the chips sit higher then on the v1/v2.Soo are there alternative DAT0 point for soldering? I don't have the adapter for it. Everything else is soldered correctly, no problems
That wire is ok for those points.Hi guys, so i just managed to get a step further. The LED in the Zero is now blinking blue Pink. Any suggestions on what I can check? I already checked the solders on CMD/CLK. I use these thin cupped wires. Should I maybe use a thicker cable? Or is it maybe the Flex cable I’m using ?
I meant plastic housing, I made the place where is usbc thinner, it closes, I don't need to cut it openif u removed the usb,voltage regulator , buttons there is no need for cutting the oled metal shielding , somehow nintendo startet making that particular place where the chips sit higher then on the v1/v2.
maydbe we have a switch modder in the design section of nintendo Xd
if u removed the usb,voltage regulator , buttons there is no need for cutting the oled metal shielding , somehow nintendo startet making that particular place where the chips sit higher then on the v1/v2.
maydbe we have a switch modder in the design section of nintendo Xd
one day they will make sure hes on there side XdThen they are at war with whoever designed dat0

I dont think the 470R ohm resistor gonna work, if you were still using what you bought. You need 47R or 470 label on the resistorHi guys, so i just managed to get a step further. The LED in the Zero is now blinking blue Pink. Any suggestions on what I can check? I already checked the solders on CMD/CLK. I use these thin cupped wires. Should I maybe use a thicker cable? Or is it maybe the Flex cable I’m using ?