Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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in soldering im skilled for solder. Im also installing modchip to my client. for solder its ok, do I need any resistor? to rst something like that
I dont think so. 20k resistor is needed if it reboots after successful glitch (blue-white-green).
 
I recently got my OLED switch modded with picofly (with fw 2.65).
Just wondering if in case there's new firmware update that drops, how should I proceed with updating my ofw and cfw?

Should I update first the emummc's cfw, firmware etc. or should I update the ofw first? I've read posts that for modchipped OLED switch, ofw and cfw needs to matched to avoid corrupting the boot0. I still use my ofw for switch online play.


PS. sorry if this is out of topic.
 
Soo are there alternative DAT0 point for soldering? I don't have the adapter for it. Everything else is soldered correctly, no problems
 

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Last edited by Dlacica,
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Soo are there alternative DAT0 point for soldering? I don't have the adapter for it. Everything else is soldered correctly, no problems
Yeah..... but I don't think you wanna go that way (see attached).
I would rather reball the bga than try this :D
 

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Last edited by QuiTim,
Soo are there alternative DAT0 point for soldering? I don't have the adapter for it. Everything else is soldered correctly, no problems
if u removed the usb,voltage regulator , buttons there is no need for cutting the oled metal shielding , somehow nintendo startet making that particular place where the chips sit higher then on the v1/v2.
maydbe we have a switch modder in the design section of nintendo Xd
 
Hi guys, so i just managed to get a step further. The LED in the Zero is now blinking blue Pink. Any suggestions on what I can check? I already checked the solders on CMD/CLK. I use these thin cupped wires. Should I maybe use a thicker cable? Or is it maybe the Flex cable I’m using ?
 
Hi guys, so i just managed to get a step further. The LED in the Zero is now blinking blue Pink. Any suggestions on what I can check? I already checked the solders on CMD/CLK. I use these thin cupped wires. Should I maybe use a thicker cable? Or is it maybe the Flex cable I’m using ?
That wire is ok for those points.
What model of switch do you have? Do you have any photos of the solder job you did?
 
if u removed the usb,voltage regulator , buttons there is no need for cutting the oled metal shielding , somehow nintendo startet making that particular place where the chips sit higher then on the v1/v2.
maydbe we have a switch modder in the design section of nintendo Xd
I meant plastic housing, I made the place where is usbc thinner, it closes, I don't need to cut it open
 
if u removed the usb,voltage regulator , buttons there is no need for cutting the oled metal shielding , somehow nintendo startet making that particular place where the chips sit higher then on the v1/v2.
maydbe we have a switch modder in the design section of nintendo Xd

Then they are at war with whoever designed dat0
 
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I ordered a couple of different mosfets and I'm gonna give them a try.
I'm most looking forward to AON7506 and AON7518 because they have a nice terminal layout and great form factor (should fit under the shield perfectly)
I'm also gonna try BSC150N03LD which is dual n-channel and if it works maybe people can use just this one instead of using 2 separate ones (where such need exists).
It will take a while until they arrive but once they are here there are gonna be an exiting couple of days.
If anyone has tried any other mosfet models (even if they dont work) I would love to hear about it.
Cheers
 
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Hi guys, so i just managed to get a step further. The LED in the Zero is now blinking blue Pink. Any suggestions on what I can check? I already checked the solders on CMD/CLK. I use these thin cupped wires. Should I maybe use a thicker cable? Or is it maybe the Flex cable I’m using ?
I dont think the 470R ohm resistor gonna work, if you were still using what you bought. You need 47R or 470 label on the resistor
 

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