Use solder wick/desolder wire to remove as much/all the solder from the ground points (the 4 anchor/through holes) then for the 12 little pads, you want to add loads of solder so its almost one big blob of solder and with a decent iron with a fairly big tip, just run it back and forth over the pads while gently lifting, it'll come off nicely then wick away any left over solder from the pads. You'll probably wreck the actual port but wont damage the pads/board.
Use solder wick/desolder wire to remove as much/all the solder from the ground points (the 4 anchor/through holes) then for the 12 little pads, you want to add loads of solder so its almost one big blob of solder and with a decent iron with a fairly big tip, just run it back and forth over the pads while gently lifting, it'll come off nicely then wick away any left over solder from the pads. You'll probably wreck the actual port but wont damage the pads/board.
you can se uv mask , but i still think the flex is the way to go , more spencive but man safer
netflix should do a recap of this threat almost 300 pages , man this is easy 5 seasons
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netflix should do a recap of this threat almost 300 pages , man this is easy 5 seasons
not mine, friend sent me to test. Just wanted to share news
I also used UHU glue for the MOSFET, but I have also ordered a solder mask. I only used the glue on wires to keep them in place, and I won't be using it on the solder points as I'll be using the solder mask when it arrives.
Can u reset the picofly with an RCM Jig like HWFLY or no. Cuz that method comes in clutch without magnetic switch
(correction) Can u reinject the payload to boot0 with the RCM jig like HWlfy firmware does, it comes in clutch, or maybe a full reset would be useful too if a device goes into RCM mod on OLED v2 and v. I think this is a smart idea @rehius
(correction) Can u reinject the payload to boot0 with the RCM jig like HWlfy firmware does, it comes in clutch, or maybe a full reset would be useful too if a device goes into RCM mod on OLED v2 and v. I think this is a smart idea @rehius
Last edited by busmanl30,
I have a question. Is SKHynix emmc supported on V2 Mariko switches? I found information that it's not but might be outdated. Someone posted that they have gotten it to work, but want to confirm.
I'm using dual mosfets with the 5 wires that are short. The mosfests are the same distance away compared to the flex cable. This same setup worked fine on a switch lite.
The switch gets a blue light and green flash and then the OFW logo. I think it reset?
Been working on this for over 6+ hours. I'll try the flex cable as a last resort, but want to avoid it and get these mosfets working, assume that's the issue. Maybe it's something else. TIA
Okay I put the flex cable on and now it's working. Thanks sorry for the confusion. Now back to figuring out the mosfets.
Is using dual mosfets overkill? If one mosfet sufficent enough?
Last edited by MicroRepairRX,
i am order the same flex and not working to
i got cyan LED while using that flex
First time around 5-7seconds. Second time and afterwards it's almost instant. Faster then my other V2 with original TX Core chip
That's great work. What did you do to check if the MOSFET Is working properly?
I think that the problem is in the bad soldering of the cable. So do as I do, unsolder the transistors and connect as in my drawings and everything will work. Good luck!
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It is necessary, in the multimeter diode mode, to check the connection between points D and S, then touch the red "+" to point G, and black "-" to point D. And check that the values between D and S should change. Then we reset the transistor (we run something iron through it to close all the contacts) and check points D and S again, if the value has changed again, then the MOSFET is working. We do everything in Diode mode.
Last edited by Makc16384,
Issue: I turned on my lite a few times being able to boot into Hekate PL, but now when I press power nothing happens. I take the back cover off, the shield off press the power, nothing. I press power again and the rp2040 goes blue-to-green, and then boots into hekate pl.
I put the shield back on, try again, and it boots into hekate pl. I put the back cover and press power and nothing happens.
It’s probably the pressure being put on the wires on the rp2040 I assume. But if I get no lights, does that mean the cpu wire is shorting somewhere?
I put the shield back on, try again, and it boots into hekate pl. I put the back cover and press power and nothing happens.
It’s probably the pressure being put on the wires on the rp2040 I assume. But if I get no lights, does that mean the cpu wire is shorting somewhere?
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Hello, I have a question, which mosfets do you guys recommend for the installation of the RP2040? I heard that SOP8 might work. what other alternatives are there?
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